While sailing my mainsheet wants to twist. I've checked the line and everything looks correct. Any ideas why this is happening? Thanks, Michael
Twisting Mainsheet
- Thread starter mdsailing15653
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Huh?
Is the block/shackle purchase twisting or is the sheet itself twisting? If it's the purchase, it's probably just tacking and the pressure on the swivels that does it. Also, I bent one of the swivel points in an accidental jibe (whoops) - causes the purchase to twist up big time - will have to replace. Good luck, Drew.
Is the block/shackle purchase twisting or is the sheet itself twisting? If it's the purchase, it's probably just tacking and the pressure on the swivels that does it. Also, I bent one of the swivel points in an accidental jibe (whoops) - causes the purchase to twist up big time - will have to replace. Good luck, Drew.
Mine too - simple fix - and a guess as to why
Mine twisted this season for the first time (3rd season owning boat). To straighten, I disconnected the lower fiddle block from its U-bolt, then pulled out the mainsheet until the lower block was raised up to within an inch or so of the top block at the boom. Then I gave the mainsheet as it comes out past the cam cleat a couple of twists (counter clockwise in my case) at the cam cleat/fairlead, pushing the twists through the top of the block, and worked/massaged that counter-twist back around the blocks. You'll see the twisting tension ease between the blocks and they'll come back in line again. Then I pulled the lower fiddleblock down towards the U-bolt again but didn't attach it yet. There was still a slight twist so leaving the block where it was I pushed another half twist through and around the blocks until it all hung straight. Thinking about it for a few weeks now, I think I know how the twist got there. A new habit I developed this year is to put a wrap of the mainsheet around the back of my hand such that the fingers are holding the extra loop of sheet that is between my hand and the cam cleat. I can open my fingers and instantly release 8 inches of sheet without letting the sheet actually slide through my hand. I can ease the mainsheet another foot by just leaning forward. I'm not sure, but maybe I just do this when I'm not wearing my gloves. I think I do this when the sheet is not actually cleated, which I can do because the sheet is a bit oversized (7/16) and there is a lot of friction. I probably do this when I'm playing with how far I can heel while close-hauled without loosing rudder control and rounding up. I do this intentionally to get the feel of the limits of the control systems. It's like practicing slow-flight in an airplane. You don't normally want to go there but you want to know how it feels and what to do about it when you find yourself there. Sometimes it's not just playing, I've done this on a long close haul back (less than a mile) to the marina in high-ish winds while pinching fisherman's-reef-style rather than stopping to reef the main. Anyway, I think releasing that loop from around my hand over time feeds the twist back through the blocks. By the end of the season I had about a half twist from one block to the other. One would think that if I did the above equally on both tacks that the twists would cancel out. I don't have an answer for that one... ...RickM...
Mine twisted this season for the first time (3rd season owning boat). To straighten, I disconnected the lower fiddle block from its U-bolt, then pulled out the mainsheet until the lower block was raised up to within an inch or so of the top block at the boom. Then I gave the mainsheet as it comes out past the cam cleat a couple of twists (counter clockwise in my case) at the cam cleat/fairlead, pushing the twists through the top of the block, and worked/massaged that counter-twist back around the blocks. You'll see the twisting tension ease between the blocks and they'll come back in line again. Then I pulled the lower fiddleblock down towards the U-bolt again but didn't attach it yet. There was still a slight twist so leaving the block where it was I pushed another half twist through and around the blocks until it all hung straight. Thinking about it for a few weeks now, I think I know how the twist got there. A new habit I developed this year is to put a wrap of the mainsheet around the back of my hand such that the fingers are holding the extra loop of sheet that is between my hand and the cam cleat. I can open my fingers and instantly release 8 inches of sheet without letting the sheet actually slide through my hand. I can ease the mainsheet another foot by just leaning forward. I'm not sure, but maybe I just do this when I'm not wearing my gloves. I think I do this when the sheet is not actually cleated, which I can do because the sheet is a bit oversized (7/16) and there is a lot of friction. I probably do this when I'm playing with how far I can heel while close-hauled without loosing rudder control and rounding up. I do this intentionally to get the feel of the limits of the control systems. It's like practicing slow-flight in an airplane. You don't normally want to go there but you want to know how it feels and what to do about it when you find yourself there. Sometimes it's not just playing, I've done this on a long close haul back (less than a mile) to the marina in high-ish winds while pinching fisherman's-reef-style rather than stopping to reef the main. Anyway, I think releasing that loop from around my hand over time feeds the twist back through the blocks. By the end of the season I had about a half twist from one block to the other. One would think that if I did the above equally on both tacks that the twists would cancel out. I don't have an answer for that one... ...RickM...
Too many sailors......
......stow their lines with looping coils. Each loop puts a twist into the line which causes 'ass-holes'(those knots that form when a line twists itself in front of a block). The cure is never coil a line. Always loop in figure 8's. The result is no ass-holes and the line pays out without a problem and no twisted mainsheets.
......stow their lines with looping coils. Each loop puts a twist into the line which causes 'ass-holes'(those knots that form when a line twists itself in front of a block). The cure is never coil a line. Always loop in figure 8's. The result is no ass-holes and the line pays out without a problem and no twisted mainsheets.
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