Turning block replacement questions

May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
Hey All,

I'm trying to replace the original turning blocks on my 1990 H30. Clearly they've seen better days. I apologize for the terrible photos - was trying to take them in direct sunlight and could barely see the screen.
It's an Isomat mast and despite the presence of the slots for nuts for additional blocks, the existing ones have no access to the bottom - likely why they were never changed by the previous owner!
I'm thinking the best choice will be to try to drill out the pins in the existing blocks - anyone have a better idea? Then replace it with something like this, assuming the clevis pin size is the same Harken Sailboat Hardware and Accessories
Anyone ever do this? Pulling the mast is not an option at the moment. Thanks!
 

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May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
I've seen them mentioned here and on other sites - was trying to DIY this but maybe I'll give them a call on Monday. Thanks!
 
May 27, 2004
1,964
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Please check the archives on this forum where replacing the pulley was discussed.
I added this thought in my first response while you were typing! :facepalm:
 
Dec 2, 2003
751
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
It looks like the blocks may be fastened to a stud that screws into a nut captured by the mast step. See if you can “unscrew” the stud - might need a little carefully placed penetrating oil.

i purchased studs like these when I wanted to add blocks to my mast base. Purchased from rig rite. Can also purchase with blocks attached. 1593901075107.gif
 
May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
It looks like the blocks may be fastened to a stud that screws into a nut captured by the mast step. See if you can “unscrew” the stud - might need a little carefully placed penetrating oil.
The stud spins and spins and spins - I don't think the nut is captured by anything if there even is a nut, might just be a pin with a flange at the bottom.
Currently combing the archives trying to find someone else's adventures with this....
 
Dec 2, 2003
751
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
You could see if inserting a thin screw driver in the slot of the mast base under your sheave to see if it would allow removal. If not you could drill out the lower pin and reuse the existing stud. Alternatively you could drill out the pin holding the sheave and replace just the sheave.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
As twalker says, Might be easier to replace just the wheel (sheave) part by grinding the pin end and pressing it out with a c-clamp or something. Then replace the pin with the proper sized shouldered bolt.
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
I would grind away that rivet holding the block to the pin, and just attach new blocks to the pins.
 
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Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
It is natural to look at a block and say, “that is a simple design, if I can remove the pin I can fix it”.

And you would be correct.

The question is two part.
  1. What would a replacement cost? and
  2. Do I want to spend my time reengineering something that was stamped out of metal and designed to be tossed.
If the designer had intended the user to replace the sheaves they would have used a screw rather than a rivet and better sheaves.

But that is no deterrent to a determined boat owner to conserve dollars in expense of time and ingenuity. The question is how much will replacements of the same quality cost and will they last another 20 years?
 
May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
I'm thinking new block. The metal sides that enclose the sheave are all bent and distorted, probably best to drill the rivet out holding the whole block to the pin.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,995
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
You could experiment with the units.

My experiments did not go well. But they were fun to take apart.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
My B323, and I'm sure other models use something like that block. The groove in the bottom- along side the deck- capture the nut. You have to turn the block to screw the old out and new one in. I can't see the nut as wearing, but just maybe the slot could have worn out from constant jiggling. Try that screwdriver idea mentioned above. You might look areound your marina for a Beneteau so you can ieyeball the block. I don't have a picture, as they (4 of them) are something I did not change out when I reworked the boat. Annapolis Yacht Sales has a parts counter that might give you a part number. I don't think there is a brand name on them, so maybe a Beneteau design. Perhaps another B owner on the forum has more in? I'm 200 yards from my boat slip, so can gladly go look, maybe take a pic? .

Add: Mine MIGHT be Lewmar, as everything else is. It looks like ....UER is on yours? Garhauer?

Add #2. Okay, go to www.usspars.com. They have a mast block, part 288. 80 mm sheave, 10 mm stud. It may cost you 300, web site price. My catalog is from 2008. My catalog is 2008, so you ought to get a newer one in addition to checking their site. .
 
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May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
My originals were Garhauer.
I managed to grind off the head of the rivet holding the block to the pin. 30 seconds with a cordless angle grinder and easier than trying to drill it. Saved both pins and discovered the holes are 1/4" or 6mm, which seems a little small based on the gear available. Anyways, I was able to find a block that will work, a Harken 6096, about $65 shipped.
 
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Apr 23, 2012
69
Hunter 430 Kemah
Same style on my 430, the nuts are likely ok, the aluminum slots are wore out, as said above try the screwdriver first if not. get a cheap 13mm grind it till half the sides are gone ,lift up on the stud ,slide your wrench in, with a little lube and patience should come out, Patience.
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
You might try unfastening the mast collar and lifting it up to see what's going on. You can do this with the mast in, it's not going to fall down.
 
May 19, 2020
85
Hunter 30-2 Quincy
You might try unfastening the mast collar and lifting it up to see what's going on. You can do this with the mast in, it's not going to fall down.
Really?! I thought the mast sat on the collar. Good to know.
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,745
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
Really?! I thought the mast sat on the collar. Good to know.
I was assuming it's a keel-stepped mast. Hence, a collar where it passes through the deck. If it's deck-stepped, different story.
 
Nov 21, 2007
631
Beneteau Oceanis 34 Kingston, WA
The stud spins and spins and spins - I don't think the nut is captured by anything if there even is a nut, might just be a pin with a flange at the bottom.
Currently combing the archives trying to find someone else's adventures with this....
As @twalker H260 was describing, you should be able to hold the nut in place either with a thin open ended wrench, or with a flat blade screwdriver (or small chisel) or whatever will fit into the small opening at the mast base. Use channel locks or vice grips or another small open ended wrench to unscrew the stud. Since the blocks themselves are already in poor condition, you may want to grip at the base of the body of the block, in order to use a longer wrench or longer channel locks for better leverage. You might need a little penetrating oil. The few that I've removed were surprisingly easy, but they had only been installed for a few years when I was working on them. The flat opening where the stud is located should be just large enough for the head of a wrench to fit into.