Turnbuckle preference?

[NewportNewsMike]

For some reason, (tradition? aesthetics? phase of the moon?) I have never liked the appearance of the Catalina-style turnbuckles (machined bronze body with chrome cover). Since they had come on the boat and were functional, I never took any action to change them out.

This Spring I replaced my lower shrouds with the Catalina Direct improved lower shroud package, which came with a pair of open-bodied turnbuckles. While I could have reused my Catalina-style turnbuckles, I decided to use the open-bodied turnbuckles that came on the lower shroud kit and purchase another set of open bodies for the upper shrouds. To me the open-bodied turnbuckles look "better" and are easier to adjust and pin.

This got me to thinking: how do others look at turnbuckles? Do various folks like one style over all the others? Or does it matter?

So here is your chance to voice your opinion on this "weighty" matter. What do you prefer?

1. I like the smooth look of the Catalina-style (machined bronze body with chrome cover) turnbuckle.
2. I like the traditional look of an opened-bodied style turnbuckle.
3. I like the sleek appearance of the tubular-style (with jam nuts) turnbuckle.
4. Who cares? A turnbuckle is a turnbuckle, whatever I have on hand works.

 

[shnool]

Wow is THIS topic relevant...

My boat came with these:

I'm changing out to this:

Two HUGE advantages....
1. no need to mess around with lock nuts (cause now you have the velcro with the pins that prevent the turnbuckle from rotating)...
2. A basic screwdriver can be used to rotate the turnbuckle to tighten/loosen. The holes in the closed turnbuckles were too mall for anything useful (broke many a small phillipshead screwdriver that way).

I'll go 1 step further...
These came with my boat:

I'm also changing out to these:

The difference? The top one has the barrel at the bottom thread into the bolt... if you tighten your stay a lot, it unscrews that piece dangerously loosening your rig as you tighten... leaving precious few threads left holding your rig up!

Catalina Direct is on it though, they tell you all about it here:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm ... 516-lh.cfm

I was so frustrated when it took me nearly 3 hours to tun my rig when I put the boat in the water. Part of that of course was me, I thought I could start the season with last years settings... um NO, too hard to put the headstay pin in that tight!

Oh and the preference for me is strictly functional... I want something fast, useful, and won't snag on my sails!

 

[SailSmith]

Can I use the stainless rings I use for Cleve's pins instead of cotter pins in the open turnbuckles? Are they strong enough? I would get those fancy Velcro pins but my wife would get on me for spending the $.

 

[dave_ren]

Can I use the stainless rings I use for Cleve's pins instead of cotter pins in the open turnbuckles? Are they strong enough? I would get those fancy Velcro pins but my wife would get on me for spending the $.

Yes you can. If you run them so the one side of the turnbuckle body is inside the ring and then run the ring through the hole in the threaded stud, you'll be nice and secure. Also means you don't have to waste cotter pins every time you adjust tune your rig.

For the record, count my vote for open turnbuckles x10. Much easier to adjust. Doesn't trap water and corrode like the closed body style. Just make sure they are chrome-plated bronze, not stainless steel. That way they won't gall (corrode) like stainless-to-stainless threads, else they become buckles that don't turn.

 

[sinnettc]

I've got the turnbuckles you're switching to. Made my own velcro cotter pins a couple years ago. Hoping the port lower ones are still there as I realized last night that I forgot to put them back in after I tightened the rig on Tuesday night.

 

[HERSH]

Can I use the stainless rings I use for Cleve's pins instead of cotter pins in the open turnbuckles? Are they strong enough? I would get those fancy Velcro pins but my wife would get on me for spending the $.

I have always used safety wire ....

Cut it off an the end of the season.

Hershey

 

[shnool]

I use the split rings on the pin at the toggle, and the velcro with pins for the turnbuckle.

 

[aviatorjames]

Open turnbuckles with cotter pins for the shrouds...
Once adjusted, they shouldn't need a lot of turning

Open turnbuckle on the back-stay with split rings... (for trailering)
I need to pull the rings and loosen the back-stay for connecting / disconnecting the fore-stay

Open turnbuckle on the fore-stay with safety wire (inside the furling drum)

The only problem I see with those velcro-pins is that velcro deteriorates in the sun so quickly

 

[sinnettc]

James,

You trailer sail, don't you? I think you can set it and forget it easier than those of us whose boats sit in the water all summer.

I find that my rigging tends to loosen a bit through the season as the boat sits in the water. Partly I think it's the hull changing shape a bit as it adjusts to being in the water, instead of on the trailer, and partly it's the rigging stretching a bit. I usually have to adjust the tension, particularly on the lowers, a couple times during the season. My initial tensions on Tuesday were 32 on the uppers and 24 on the lowers; I expect I'll be up around 33-34 and 25-27 by the end of the season. Being able to quickly remove the cotters is helpful.

 

[SailSmith]

Sorry mike, I didn't mean to change the topic of your thread by piggy backing a related question to your post. I vote "4" though.

 

[aviatorjames]

The Selden rigging guide mentioned above has a lot of excellent information.
The file is too big to post, but you can download it here...

Selden Rigging Guide

 

[SailSmith]

Do I have to use SS cotter pins in turnbuckles or will brass or aluminum work as well?

 

[NewportNewsMike]

Do I have to use SS cotter pins in turnbuckles or will brass or aluminum work as well?

I guess everyone is out sailing and too busy to give an opinion!

I have never used any thing but SS, but that is because I have always had some on hand when I needed cotter pins.

My first thought is that aluminum or brass would work just fine. Either may show a little corrosion in salt water, but I don't think that would be a deal breaker. Same thought with dissimilar metals in saltwater - I think you would be OK.

 

[NewportNewsMike]

Any body out there prefer the "Catalina-style" machined bronze body and chrome covers?

I have the ones I removed from my boat this Spring, and I would rather see them go to a "good home" rather than just take up space here.

Let me know if you want them, and we can work out some payment to cover postage.

Edited to add: I have two smaller turnbuckles (lower shroud size) with covers, and four larger-sized (upper shrouds / fore stay / back stay) but only THREE chrome covers for this size. My forestay did not use a cover under the roller furling drum.

 

[jerrymlewis]

NewportNewsMike - do you have a picture of these turnbuckles? I may be interested if they are what I think they are.

 

[NewportNewsMike]

I do not have a picture handy, but I can / will post one tomorrow.

 

[NewportNewsMike]

Found a picture on line - http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm ... uct_ID=352

What I have to share is just the bronze body and stainless covers (minus one cover) - not every thing pictured - just the two left-most components in that picture.

 

[shnool]

Gotta Love Catalina direct...

These are not our favorite turnbuckles . The body is machined from a piece of bronze bar stock by a digitally controlled milling machine. It is strong and less expensive to manufacture. But the milling machine leaves both edges of the vertical slots knife sharp. They are ready to slice into your hand when you grasp the turnbuckle to adjust it!

Talk about truth in advertising....

 

[Rightbrainer]

Hey, I'll play!

I use and like open turnbuckles. They just look yachty to me and adjust with simple tools. I use zip-ties to secure them and I slide a piece of 3/4" PVC over the uppers for the jib to slide against. I also put a 5' length of PVC on each lifeline to lean against. If you don't like the red lettering, you can wipe it off with solvent.