Trying to rerig my boom

[Vulkin']

I moved for a new job. Had the boat shipped from Savannah GA to Huntsville AL. Even though I had asked for them to not derig until I was there by the time I arrived the boat was completely derigged. I am now trying to put it all back together. I already have the mast up, the main halyard and Jib halyard are in place. Now I am working on the boom. I got some drawings of the original set up from Hunter. The original set up had a reefing system (never worked in the 10 years I have owned the boat) that had lines that run into the boom to a block suspended inside of the boom. Now to the question. If I want to replace this system do I simply remove the end of the boom to get to the innards or is this the hard way. In other words my next step appears to be removing the end of the boom unless someone here knows of and easier way.

Thanks
Barry

 

[Clark]

Barry, it depends on what boat/boom you have and what you need to do.

If the block you mentioned is purely floating, is there an opening at the "rear" of the boom that would allow you to pull the lines and get to? My H280 is like that but I only need/have access to one of the outhaul blocks as the other is anchored inside the boom near the gooseneck. If that one had a problem, I would have to remove the forward casting to get to it.

Maybe you could describe how Hunter intended the reefing line to be routed. My boat has slab reefing and only needs a straight run of line thru to boom, out the gooseneck and to my organizers.

 

[Landsend]

use an electrical fish tape...

nm

 

[Vulkin']

More info

OK more info. I am not sure what you would actually call my reefing system. The guy at Hunter sent me three differfent types that were on 87 boats of my size. One was in boom furling - not that one. One was a French system that had similar working parts but different end caps on the boom - not that one. The other looks exactly like my boom and has all of the same external sheave arangements. Looking at the drawing the way this thing is designed to work is that there is a line tied to each reef point (total of two). Each goes into the boom one from the fwd end one from the aft. The both go to what appears to be a free floating block w/ two sheaves one facing fwd one facing aft. The line from the aft end of the boom/sail goes trough the aft end of the floating block and then back to the aft end of the boom where is is secured. The forward line comes down from the fwd first reef point down into the boom through the fwd end of the floating block back towards the fwd end of the boom to exit at the gooseneck and then goes down and back though the deck organizers to the cockpit. The end of the boom is not easily removable but would only take drilling out 4 rivite to access. As this system was frozen when I bought the boat back in 1999 I assume the floating block is toast (most of my blocks and sheaves are being replaced as they are well past there anticipated service life). I had alwayse just tied the reef point around the boom w/ a piece of line. I have a feeling the only way to fix this thing is going to be to pop off the end caps run the lines and then reinstall the end caps on the boom. An easier alternative would be appreciated but I don't think a simple fish tape is gonna fix this one.

 

[Clark]

Does it look like this? Hey, I'm no artist . . . .

I tried to show the first reef as I understand it. If this works and it does look like this, and the back end of the boom is closed, then yes, you will have to remove the casting.

 

[Barry]

Vulkin'

Clark'

Yep, that is exactly how the Hunter supplied drawing show the reefing lines inside the boom. I am guessing that the block that is interior to the boom is floating just because I can't see it functioning any other way.

 

[Clark]

One last thought Barry; you may only need to remove the rear casting

Tie/sew a messenger to the forward line; remove the rear casting and pull out the block. With the new blocks in hand, thread the new rear reef line (same length as the old) thru the new rear block. Now carefully, cut the forward reef line, feed one of the ends thru the forward block then re-sew the ends together. You can then pull in a new forward reef line using the old. Other variations to pulling in a new forward line could work . . . I hope this makes sense.

An alternative is to discard the floating block altogether and rig a reef like is shown at the Harken site. IIRC, it may not provide the 2:1 control but it may be simpler.

Good Luck.

 

[Steve Dion]

what boat do you have?

Vulkin':

What boat do you have. Some of the boats have very simple setups, other have blocks & cables.

Let us know what we are working with and maybe someone has some diagrams.