trouble to start my hunter 380 1999

[fabrik]

i have problem to start the motor 1 every 3 time so i have to jump the starter
and other time it start i read that we can put a starting switch near the motor can someone explain me what i need and how to do that thanks

capt Michel

 

[Don Lucas]

You need to check to see if you have a solenoid relay in you start system or not. In my last boat I didn't and corrosion in the wire harness caused me to have starting problems as the loop is very long and any corrosion results in too much voltage loss.

So check all your connections first. If you still have a problem and don't have a relay you should install one. It is pretty easy as the start button then energizes the solenoid down by the starter that that energizes the starter. If this short description isn't enough I suggest you get local help (ask around your marina I bet someone would love to prove they are an expert and help you for a beer)

 

[seadaddler]

Here

I am not sure where in the search but if you do a search here in this forum
there should be some topic with starting problems and should be help on how to do so some place in search at top.
Nick

 

[Sailgunner]

the other option is to run a new wire from your key switch to your starter.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Sailgunner has the school house solution.
there are numerous connections between the start switch and the solenoid. All those connections drop the voltage at the solenoid and the result is the solenoid does not work.
I found that when I nuttered all the boat wiring quick connections the factory used not only did the start problem go away but the oil and temp gauges started reading more in line with what i thought they should be.

 

[Allan Frey]

Search the archives. This has been discussed endlessly and the solutions and wiring diagrams to solve the problem are all in the archives.

allan

 

[charliegrau]

I had the same problem and solved it by jumpering all the blade connectors in the circuit. I just cut each blade connection point out and replaced it with a short piece of new wire using butt connectors which I also covered with shrink wrap. I think there were five places in the circuit with blade connectors in varying stages of corrossion. Works fine now, and saved me pulling new wire the whole lenght of the harness.