Trouble in the Aft Compartment – Cherubini 30 Access + Rudder Stuffing Work

[testingthewaters91]

Hey everyone,

Took a closer look under the cockpit in the aft-most part of my 1981 Hunter Cherubini 30, and I’ve got a few issues that need addressing:

The rudder stuffing box hose, clamps, and packing material all look like they’re ready for retirement.

The scupper hoses back there are laughably brittle — almost like dryer vent hose. I can crush them between two fingers. Definitely not marine-grade. I want to replace them with proper reinforced hose and new clamps.

I know the steps: loosen clamps, slip off the stuffing box hose, repack the gland, and install new clamps and hose — but my problem is access.

From what I can tell, everything has to be reached by squeezing into a small access door behind the aft berth. I barely fit through it. On the other side, the fuel tank blocks most of the cockpit locker, so reaching the rudder stock from there is tough too. I can lay down in there, but it’s not ideal.

Two main questions:
1. Has anyone figured out a better access route to this aft compartment on a Cherubini 30?

2. How do I drop the rudder post slightly so I can slip off the old stuffing box hose and install the new one?

Appreciate any insight — I’m fully comfortable with the mechanical part of this job. Just trying to avoid a full-on contortionist act or yanking the fuel tank if I don’t have to.

Thanks in advance.

 

[kloudie1]

No help, but a comment: The hose does not look that bad in the picture.. I see an old label from when it was replaced a while back .. The label has picked up rust residue from the hose clamps.. The hose clamps definitely need to be replaced and this time, they should be completely 316 SS .. check them with a magnet before buying them. Many will be marked "316" but may have only one part made out of real stainless.
Kinda like this:
Ideal Clamp Products 53305-0120-051 | Fisheries Supply
Repacking can be done without removing the rudder.. picture looks like the gland is not evenly tightened .. use a something to measure the gap all around and correct if it is out of square.

 

[testingthewaters91]

No help, but a comment: The hose does not look that bad in the picture.. I see an old label from when it was replaced a while back .. The label has picked up rust residue from the hose clamps.. The hose clamps definitely need to be replaced and this time, they should be completely 316 SS .. check them with a magnet before buying them. Many will be marked "316" but may have only one part made out of real stainless.
Kinda like this:
Ideal Clamp Products 53305-0120-051 | Fisheries Supply
Repacking can be done without removing the rudder.. picture looks like the gland is not evenly tightened .. use a something to measure the gap all around and correct if it is out of square.

Thank you for the thoughtful reply—really appreciate it as I'm still learning the ropes. I’ll check the hose more carefully and definitely test the new clamps with a magnet like you suggested. That’s a sharp tip I hadn’t considered. I’ll also measure the gap around the gland and see if I can square it up.

If anything else comes to mind, I’m all ears—grateful for any wisdom shared.

 

[Dalliance]

Been there, done that on my ‘82 H30.

There should be better access to that area through a removable panel at the aft end of the starboard lazarette. I always wondered if the panel in my boat is original or a modification by the previous owner but I think I can see it in one of your photos. It’s held in place with two or three screws.

To drop the rudder you have to remove the skeg. It’s held on with three lag bolts and 3M 5200 or similar. The bolts are accessed through the above mentioned panel with some contortion. Some owners have also glassed over the skeg to hull joint which complicates the job. I replaced my log hose about ten years ago while the skeg was off anyway to repair a leak at the joint. Your log hose looks newer than mine did. Hopefully it’s fine with just new hose clamps.

 

[ggrizzard]

The rear bulkhead that you show in the pic is removable with a few screws. On my 1979 H30C, it's the only way because mine does not have a 'lazarette'.
I found the bulkhead secured with two screws attached to a wooden 'stringer at the top and to a frp flange on the bottom.
YMMV

 

[testingthewaters91]

Appreciate all the tips! I’ve been learning a ton. I found this charming surprise in the starboard lazarette.

Apparently, the previous owner’s idea of “marine audio” was just leaving rusty screws where a speaker used to be. No speaker. Just hazards.

Will inspect the removable bulkhead soon.

 

[testingthewaters91]

To drop the rudder you have to remove the skeg. It’s held on with three lag bolts and 3M 5200 or similar. The bolts are accessed through the above mentioned panel with some contortion. Some owners have also glassed over the skeg to hull joint which complicates the job. I replaced my log hose about ten years ago while the skeg was off anyway to repair a leak at the joint. Your log hose looks newer than mine did. Hopefully it’s fine with just new hose clamps.

My skeg looks like this. I can take a closer look tonight. I'll try to inspect the stuffing box hose and decided whether or not I really need to replace it this season.

 

[Dalliance]

My skeg looks like this. I can take a closer look tonight. I'll try to inspect the stuffing box hose and decided whether or not I really need to replace it this season.

The skeg to hull joint is obvious, so it hasn’t been glassed over. This is good news if you decide you need to remove the skeg and drop the rudder.
Mine had been glassed over. Had to attack it with a grinder to expose the actual joint.

 

[testingthewaters91]

I went to check on the boat and discovered something surprising: that aft panel was barely secured in place. One screw — that’s it. I think whoever worked on it before may have messed with it and never properly reinstalled it. Lucky break for me — it popped right out.

Honestly, the board looks like trash. Old, brittle, and ugly. I’m pretty sure it’s not structural. I'm tempted to just toss it. What do you all think? Anyone know if that panel serves any real purpose beyond cosmetics?

It does look like someone cut into a bit of the surrounding fiberglass, which you can see in the photo I attached. Not too deep, but worth noting.

On the upside, access is incredible now. I was able to get a screwdriver on the stuffing box hose — felt decently strong, though I’ll need to really get in there and wrap my hands around it to be sure. No way to tell without a proper feel.

Even better: I now have clear access to those crusty, brittle scupper hoses. I’ll be swapping them out for proper marine-grade hose and double-clamping everything. I'm aiming for bulletproof — when she hits the water again, I want zero doubts about her seaworthiness.

I also did a full clean-out of the starboard lazarett with some water and vinegar. It’s already looking way better. Honestly, it feels like no one’s cared for this boat in years… and now it’s my turn to bring her back. She's got good bones. She's beautiful. And this whole journey has been so much fun.

Every task is a little adventure, every fix is a point of pride. I know I’m just getting started, but man — I love this boat life. I feel more connected to her with every project. It’s my first boat, and I’m learning so much thanks to all of you.

More updates soon — and thanks again to this whole forum. I really appreciate all the help and wisdom you’ve shared.

Fair winds!

 

[Dalliance]

Keep the removable panel. It will help contain items stored in the starboard lazarette.