traveler

NYSail · Jun 2, 2009

Wow....I have a 1986 P36-2. Is your traveler on the sea hood or directly on the cabin top. If it is on the sea hood and that is lifting I would imagine that there is a bit of water damage around the screws / bolts holding it down.

Let me know as I am always looking for items like this.

By the way, how is the cabin top around your baby stay? Does your v-berth cabin door close when rig is tuned?

Greg
1986 P36-2
#101

chapinjim · Jun 2, 2009

I have a 1986 P36-2. Is your traveler on the sea hood or directly on the cabin top.

By the way, how is the cabin top around your baby stay? Does your v-berth cabin door close when rig is tuned?

Greg
1986 P36-2
#101[/quote]
Greg,
It's on the sea hood, and I found two loose through bolts on the stb side. The core and glass are sound, but even with everything tightened down, the sea hood will flex with full main in greater than 20kts apparent.
I want to move the force out to the cabin top with the Garhauer risers. They originally made the setup for Catalinas.
The cabin top around baby stay is sound as well, but with baby stay tensioned, closing the vberth door is difficult due, I'm sure, to some flex.
Do you think you may be able to help me with some measurements?
My boat is in the Abacos right now, and I need some dimensions.
Good to hear from another 36-2 owner. The boat handled beautifully in 10-12ft swells with moderate chop in 20+kts crossing the gulf stream off SC on an open ocean crossing to the Abacos.
Jim

NYSail · Jun 2, 2009

Jim,

Sounds like you did a nice passage. Your boat a full keel or shoal draft with centerboard? I have the shoal/centerboard.

When tuned, there is a small dimple where the baby stay meets the deck with my boat. Next year I intend to cut the cabin top open and reinforce...I am sure there is a bit of moister damage there.

I would be more than happy to measure for you....let me know what you need.

Greg

chapinjim · Jun 2, 2009

Greg, my boat is a CB too. I appreciate the offer on measuring.
I need to know the distance from hand rail to hand rail at the traveler ( should be close to 7 ft), and the vertical distance, ie height, from the deck at the hand rails to the top of the seahood (should be 9" or less).
That will give me the starting points I need for length of new traveler and the height of risers needed to clear the seahood.
It will be a great help.
Thanks again.
I plan to check the area around the baby stay carefully, when I inspect the boat again.
Jim

chapinjim · Jun 3, 2009

chapinjim · Jun 3, 2009

Greg, I sent a pic of a 36-2 that has added the Garhauer traveler with risers to show you what measurements are needed.
Have you done any passages in your Pearson? I know they were designed as coastal racer/cruisers, and I certainly wouldn't cross the Atlantic in mine, but after sailing her for 6 yrs, I had no doubt that a few hundred miles offshore would be within the capabilities of the boat. Choosing a good weather window was paramount, and having all gear in good condition, with spares and offshore safety equipment at hand.
I'll make the trip again. Of course I have to bring the boat back, but that's an easier crossing.
They are well built vessels.
JP

NYSail · Jun 9, 2009

Jim,

Sorry for the delay. The distance from hand rail to hand rail at the point of the current traveler is 79 inches with the seahood being 50+/- inches. The height is about 8", however I am going to measure again, but this time with a legnth of wood that will span from hand rail to hand rail as the bow is difficult to measure.

Did you call Garhauer and ask if they have the specs in file? They may have filed it by boat so as to have the template if they ever have to make on again.

I have not done any passages in the boat yet... still coastal. I am looking forward to going south in the years to come though. Would love to get to the Bahamas and surrounding areas.

chapinjim · Jun 9, 2009

Greg,
Thanks for going to the trouble! It is very helpful. Garhauer says they only keep boom vang data on file, and couldn't help with the measurements.
I had thought about working the boat down the coast as well, maybe next spring. With the CB, would be great in the Keys. Maybe Chesapeake one season.
I plan to remove the sea hood when I get the boat back to the states and inspect the deck there, and will let you know what I find. Going to be checking the baby stay area as well. Does your boat have a steel rod from the base of the baby stay, through the cabin, to the keel for support?
Thanks again for the help,
Jim

NYSail · Jun 10, 2009

Jim

First off, the height is approximately 6.5".

Yes I do have a steel rod. I tried to remove it this winter, however the ss u-bolt that comes through the deck is fused to the aluminum backing plate that is under the deck and also appears to support the top of the rod. I never noticed that this rod is attached to the keel....thought it was just under the floor......cant get under to see, but thought the last keel bolt was just aft of the bulkhead under the floor.

Speaking of keel bolts, Sunday I went for a sail after a weekend on the boat. When I was closing up after a few drinks, I was doing my routeen check and found water in the bilge which was strange as I usually have a bone dry bilge. Turns out there is slight trickle from my front bolt. I put a wrench on it and was able (with a hammer) to move it slightly...and the leak stopped. I am going to torque them all this weekend. Have you ever done this?

Greg

chapinjim · Jun 10, 2009

Greg,
I've checked the torque on the bolts and it was adequate, about 80 ft/lb as I recall. I checked them with the boat on the hard supported by skeg keel. I have the keel to hull joint faired each time I have the bottom paint done, which is about every two years.

The rod may not attach to keel as I thought. Maybe just the hull.

Have you ever had to service any part of the CB? I've read of block replacement, pennant replacement etc. My rigger told me I may need to replace the lowest turning block next haul out, as he thought it was too hard to raise the board, and that the block was the only one he couldn't check. I've always found the last few inches of retrieving the CB requires a bit of effort.

Interested in how your keel bolt does.
Thanks again for the msmt. You don't know how helpful that is.
Jim

Ariel · Jun 10, 2009

Greg and Jim,

I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question about the CB:

Greg, when you replaced on of the CB blocks several years ago, did that help reduce the force needed to raise the CB the last few inches?

On my boat, it requires so much force that I leave the board down about six inches (from the keel). There is only about one inch of cable left from the full up mark at that point. I always thought that the angle if the cable at that level caused the high force requirement but Jims question caused me to start thinking about the condition of the blocks.

Dave
s/v Ariel

NYSail · Jun 10, 2009

Jim and Dave,

First off hope all is well Dave! The muffler / water lock is great so far and the elbow in the exhaust hose works well to reduce the stress put on the engine. Jim if your muffler ever needs replacing due to seam failure there is a company that custom makes one for our boat out of fiberglass...there is a thread on hear showing Daves instalation.

Regarding the center board sheaves, I replaced the lower one that attaches to the hull as I had a very bad electrolysis problem. When I removed the old one, the bronz sheave inside was fused to the ss and was not turning. I checked all the others and the sheave spun with no problem. Once the new one was installed, the board goes up all the way with no problem. One point that I am changing though is the copper that attaches the ss sheaves via unions, I hate the unions and will be putting small peices of heavey rubber hose on the ends and clamp them onto the sheaves the horizontal one (sheave 2 leading to 3) primarily. I hate the rigidity as well as the fact that the union drips a bit now! I also have thought that if I ever need to replace one of these again I would have it fabricated from fiberglass. The less metal the better I am beginning to think.

Jim when you pull the boat is the faired keel to hull joint still good or is it cracked? I cleaned out the joint as best as possible and 5200 the joint last year. I saw a P39-2 that had his faired and it looked nice. Dave what do you do with yours?

Greg

chapinjim · Jun 10, 2009

Greg and Dave,
I wish I had been a forum member 6 months ago. I had a stainless muffler custom built to original specs to the tune of $700. It's pretty.....
Greg, are the copper unions not part of the bonding system? I know that the copper tube is where one of the large gauge bonding wires connects on my boat.
Glad to hear that changing the sheave out made a difference.

Speaking of sheaves, I think my in boom reefing cars, needs their's replaced. I've replaced all the end of boom sheaves, fore and aft, but still have a lot of friction in the reefing system, especially shaking out a reef. Any insight? (sorry,Maybe this should be a new thread).
Thanks for the info guys,
Jim

NYSail · Jun 10, 2009

No problem....I had my internals of the boom redone a few years ago. The rigger did a simpler routing that works just fine. I was having trouble with the internal blocks...they do not roll well at all so the rigger eliminated them completely. Reefing the main is an breeze now.

The entire unit is now grounded....I had an issue where I think the po disconnected the grounding wire from the centerboard system.

I can imagine the ss water lift is nice....the price ouch!! But you now have a real good system indeed.

Greg

chapinjim · Jun 10, 2009

Greg,
How are your reefing lines set up now, without the turning blocks in the boom? Do you use a ram's horn cleat for the luff cringle?
I'm ready to get rid of the internal boom blocks myself!
Jim

Ariel · Jun 10, 2009

Jim and Greg,

We should rename this the wandering thread.

Yes Greg, the keel/hull joint has looked terrible for the last eighteen years and each year I say "I should clean this out and make it look better". It's still on the list and when the boat is in the water I don't think about it. Maby next year.

I replaced forward parts of the reefing lines several years ago with one size smaller lines (7/16 in.) and the system works much better. It may be that the new line is just slicker, but it works. We reef frequently and with our Winch Buddy it is easy. I have always thought that if I was ever in the boom, I would replace the blocks with Harken to reduce friction. Shaking out the reef always tates a lot of shaking to get the aft lines out.

Greg, did the new CB block make raising the CB easier?

Dave
s/v Ariel

NYSail · Jun 16, 2009

My reef line is much more simple than it originally was. The reef line goes from the starboard clutch forward to the mast up to the first reef point then back down into the boom to the rear sheave then up to the reef point and then back to the boom to be secured. With this set-up feering and shacking it out is a breeze with no internal blocks to seize.

Yes the new sheave made raising the cb a breeze also...

Greg

Geoff K · Jun 19, 2009

Have put a traveller on a 323

I installed a Garhauer traveler on my 323 as part of a total refit. It was 63" long. It looks similar to the pic chapinjim sent. (Mine looks wider; I suspect an optical illusion.) I doubt I have anything to add, it's pretty straight forward, but if you have questions please ask.

Geoff

traveler

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