A few of months ago I asked about moving the traveler from the back of the cockpit to over the companion way. Just wanted to show a picture of the finished product. Also changed the companion way cover. Manufactured the frames for the door from teak. Also built the blocks and cross member for the traveler from the same teak. It started life in my shop as 2x12x8 ft.
- Status
You've been busy!
Great job Greg. Makes me want to go shovel the snow off the boat and get started. Making a great boat better, what could be more fun?
Great job Greg. Makes me want to go shovel the snow off the boat and get started. Making a great boat better, what could be more fun?
Mounting posts on new traveler.
Greg, Been thinking of the same modification on my H-27 (1978). I have a hard fiberglass liner on y boat. How did you mount the feet of the travler? Did you dirll large holes and use stainless or alum. backer plates or large washers? What kind of structure is under the liner? I have a pedestal system to replace the tiller but can install it until I move the traveler. PS, What sheeting mechanism you you not use 4 to1? If you have any diagrams it would be a help. Howard
Greg, Been thinking of the same modification on my H-27 (1978). I have a hard fiberglass liner on y boat. How did you mount the feet of the travler? Did you dirll large holes and use stainless or alum. backer plates or large washers? What kind of structure is under the liner? I have a pedestal system to replace the tiller but can install it until I move the traveler. PS, What sheeting mechanism you you not use 4 to1? If you have any diagrams it would be a help. Howard
Contact Gauhauer.
Howard: If you contact Garhauer Marine in Southern California that can make the entire travler assy. for you. When drilling thru the headliner you should drill the holes about 50% bigger than the finished hole. Fill them with epoxy and then redrill the holes after the epoxy cures. This prevents water from getting into the headliner area and also prevents the headliners from flexing. While I like look of Greg's teak, I hate maintenance.
Howard: If you contact Garhauer Marine in Southern California that can make the entire travler assy. for you. When drilling thru the headliner you should drill the holes about 50% bigger than the finished hole. Fill them with epoxy and then redrill the holes after the epoxy cures. This prevents water from getting into the headliner area and also prevents the headliners from flexing. While I like look of Greg's teak, I hate maintenance.
Method
We (my friend Dan and I, he really engineered the project)drilled two pilot holes through the top and the headliner. Then used a three inch hole saw to cut the headliner. We used 3/8 inch threaded rod (two per side). Counter sunk the holes at the top of the feet, used a nut and washer on the top. Drilled two holes into 1x1 angle aluminium (about 10" in length, again one for each side). These were run port/starboard to dicipate the stress across a greater area of the top. The rods were passed through the angle alu. and nutted. The threaded rods were cut to size, deburred and ends rounded to accept the nuts (sometimes I to thank my Coast Guard aviation metal working days). The setup has worked well. The traveler is through screwed the teak cross piece (track support if it needs a name). I love the look of the teak over metal or plastic. Cetol requires mimimun of maintenance... I a going to post a couple of clossup pictures soon. You can e-mail me at ggarner_gds@mindspring.com (or here at this site) whenever you want...
We (my friend Dan and I, he really engineered the project)drilled two pilot holes through the top and the headliner. Then used a three inch hole saw to cut the headliner. We used 3/8 inch threaded rod (two per side). Counter sunk the holes at the top of the feet, used a nut and washer on the top. Drilled two holes into 1x1 angle aluminium (about 10" in length, again one for each side). These were run port/starboard to dicipate the stress across a greater area of the top. The rods were passed through the angle alu. and nutted. The threaded rods were cut to size, deburred and ends rounded to accept the nuts (sometimes I to thank my Coast Guard aviation metal working days). The setup has worked well. The traveler is through screwed the teak cross piece (track support if it needs a name). I love the look of the teak over metal or plastic. Cetol requires mimimun of maintenance... I a going to post a couple of clossup pictures soon. You can e-mail me at ggarner_gds@mindspring.com (or here at this site) whenever you want...
Attachments
- Status