I'll be installing a new traveler (a Garhauer MT-1) on my boat this spring (if winter ever ends) and have a question on how owners usually connect the control lines. The traveler has track mounted end controls, each with double sheaves (max. 1/2 inch line), cam cleat and becket. The car has double sheaves on each end. I was originaly planning to order new 7/16 inch control lines with eye splices to connect to the beckets. But then I was wondering if the splice tail would be two stiff and wide to pass smoothly around the sheave on the car when the traveler is let out all the way to leeward. Options are to just tie a bowline or something similar. What have you folks done? Thanks, Kevin B
Traveler control line connection
- Thread starter Kevin B
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Tie with buntline hitch
This is a handy knot for attaching halyards and other control lines to shackles, beckets and other hardware. Check Chapman's or any other decent marine reference for "how-to". A buntline hitch takes up a lot less room than a bowline and since it it tightens under load, it's very secure. It is usually not removable (so I wouldn't recommend it for sheets) but big deal. You probably lose less than six inches of line when you cut it off. Peter H23 "Raven"
This is a handy knot for attaching halyards and other control lines to shackles, beckets and other hardware. Check Chapman's or any other decent marine reference for "how-to". A buntline hitch takes up a lot less room than a bowline and since it it tightens under load, it's very secure. It is usually not removable (so I wouldn't recommend it for sheets) but big deal. You probably lose less than six inches of line when you cut it off. Peter H23 "Raven"
Garhauer MT1 Control Lines for Traveler
Kevin The bowlines work for us. Please check the sizing of your control lines. While it appears that bigger is better and easier on the hands, we'd used 3/8 line. Over the years, it "expanded" and started to chafe inside the cheeks of the sheaves, and made the use of the traveler very difficult. We went DOWN to 5/16 line and it works great. Because of the extra purchase with the new traveler blocks, the line size for adjusting can be very small and feels like you're easily using ball bearings (which you are!) Stu
Kevin The bowlines work for us. Please check the sizing of your control lines. While it appears that bigger is better and easier on the hands, we'd used 3/8 line. Over the years, it "expanded" and started to chafe inside the cheeks of the sheaves, and made the use of the traveler very difficult. We went DOWN to 5/16 line and it works great. Because of the extra purchase with the new traveler blocks, the line size for adjusting can be very small and feels like you're easily using ball bearings (which you are!) Stu
Stu
Stu, glad you brought up the line size. I was leaning to "bigger" for the comfort level while forgetting that I am moving up to 4 sheaves and a ball bearing car from wheels and 1 sheave. Smaller would make for a neater knot and less cockpit clutter. Peter, I'm not familar with the buntline hitch but a quick Google poped up an animated display of how to tie one. Looks good, and seems to be the answer if you want a nice tight knot. Thanks guys, Kevin
Stu, glad you brought up the line size. I was leaning to "bigger" for the comfort level while forgetting that I am moving up to 4 sheaves and a ball bearing car from wheels and 1 sheave. Smaller would make for a neater knot and less cockpit clutter. Peter, I'm not familar with the buntline hitch but a quick Google poped up an animated display of how to tie one. Looks good, and seems to be the answer if you want a nice tight knot. Thanks guys, Kevin
(NM)Fred, that's the site
that I found. The knot book I have doesn't have the buntline hitch. Guess its time to get another book, or maybe I'll just rely on Google and the internet. Your correct, how did we? Kevin
that I found. The knot book I have doesn't have the buntline hitch. Guess its time to get another book, or maybe I'll just rely on Google and the internet. Your correct, how did we? Kevin
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