Transporting a long mast

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Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Some time back a SBO member poted a description and pics of transporting his mast by supporting it with not only the boat but also the tow vehicle.

Can anyone point me towards that post? Hopefully the author?
Thanks.
 
Sep 25, 2008
385
Harpoon 5.2 Honolulu, HI
I just moved my S2 27, which has a keel step mast. I had about three feet behind the boat, all of the other out in front of it over the tow vehicle. It looked like some sort of jousting device. Secured to bow rail, stern rail and on the cabin top with ratchet straps for a 2,000 mile trip.
What are your concerns/what are you trying to prep for?
 
Sep 4, 2007
776
Hunter 33.5 Elbow, Saskatchwen, Can.
I won't tie it to the tow vehicle unless you're not going to be making any turns:eek:. Just strap it to the boat with equal amounts sticking out the front and rear. Don't forget to flag the rear is it's visable to semi's.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
This is for a member of another forum that needs to move his 27' boat and 45'+ keel stepped mast.
In the post I'm referring to, the owner had a mount rigged on both the boats deck and the tow vehicle that allowed the mast to rotate somewhat (on both) and provided very good support for the mast.
 
Mar 28, 2007
637
Oday 23 Anna Maria Isl.
I can't tell you exactly how to search for it, but I am pretty sure it was a guy who was restoring an older O'Day 23, and devised the pivoting rack on top of a truck so that he could pick up a mast someone gave him. Perhaps you can search the O'Day forum? Good luck.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,373
-na -NA Anywhere USA
I have moved many boats with masts over the years and some things I did to suggest to you.

If you have bow and stern rails. I use to make boards using 4X4 cut out 1 1/2 inches on the bottom to fit to the rails and would not move when tied down seperately. The top of the 4X4 was notched to carry the masts. This was done when there was no mast support. For those boats with mast supports say for example the Hunter water ballast with the mast support pole in the back and use of the bow rail, the boards were not needed. Whatever you do, please carpet as mast to rails or rather metal to metal will cause damage. Never tie any mast on the port side rear stern because it can jut out into the path of oncoming traffic.

As one said, the mast should hang over the tow vehicle. In most states, anything over 6 feet off the stern of the boat or trailer (depends on the stat) might require a permit but most definitly put on a bright red flag of some sort on anything hanging over the transom if not for the law but for safety.

Tie the masts in such a way they cannot move at all. NEVER TIE A MAST TO THE TOW VEHICKLE AS I HAVE SEEN TOO MANY GET DAMAGED. If you feel that the mast can bounce in the center, I use to take a 4X4 board cutting it to fit the width of the mast step bolted into place with a V groove at the other end tieing the mast to it. Just make sure it is the appropiate length so you will not bend the mast either upward or downward.

Forestay, backstay and shrouds. If you do not plan on removing them, take the shrouds and coil them up tying them to the mast which of course is carpeted and tight. I would take any slack shrouds and tie them to the life lines. In fact I would also tie the spreaders to the life lines to keep them from turning sideways hitting the boat and from projecting upwards to keep them from hitting low lying bridgework or trees.

As for roller furling. The CDI is flexible and can be laid on the deck but tie it off. If the bottom drum is an issue, I use to tie it to the mast of course carpeted. It can also be tied to the mast but again tie it in many places but carpeted where it is tied. If the furler is too long and there is an overhang, I used a 2X4 and braced it to the mast but agian carpet is used to protect the mast.

One thing I always told my customers, go 10-20 miles and pull over to check tie downs of boat to trailer and the mast being secured to the boat. Always stop every 100 miles and check. better to be on the safe side. I know this is long but wanted to share what I did.

crazy dave condon
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Thanks Lance, I'll check the O'Day forum.
You're right, the back end was on a trailer and not a boat.

Thanks Dave, I'll pass on your advice. You should see the post I'm trying to find, the guy did a great job, safe and caused no damage to either mast or vehicles and successfully got the mast home.
 
Sep 5, 2007
689
MacGregor 26X Rochester
If the overhang at each end is a concern, build a simple tray for the mast to reduce the cantilever. A pair of 2x6's on edge, with a 2x4 or 2x6 'ladder rung' at each end of it, layed flat underneath so the mast layes between the main members, glued and screwed (more than that, and you won't know which are actually supporting the mast), mounted to the bow rail with equal length fore and aft (wood) so it's balanced on its own and doesn't impart any load to the mast from it's own unbalance, with the mast nestled and firmly strapped in, will reduce or eliminate the bending stresses from the cantilever, depending on how long it is. Allow it to pivot on the bow rail, so you're not inducing any stresses by strapping it down.

Do the same at the stern, at the crutch or whatever the support structure is. In the middle, a simple short crutch will suffice.

If you do this right, the mast will be directly supported in 5 places, 2 at the bow, 2 at the stern, and one in the middle, with the bow and stern free to rotate where the wood meets the rail or crutch. The bow and stern ladder rung pairs will carry the same load, since the 'pivot' is at the midpoint. It doesn't have to be an actual pin pivot - it'll pivot well enough on the rail to equalize the load on each of the two rungs. It just shouldn't be a rigid moment connection to the boat. You're just trying to have roughly equal support load at two points separated by some distance in order to spread it out and reduce the cantilevered length.

It works sort of like the equalizer mechanism of a windshield wiper blade, though the center support is rigid, and has to be just the right length to not put bend into the mast.

Put a big red beehive light on the end of the mast or the wood support structure if travelling at night, the kind with the angle mounting bracket that you can get for $4 at any auto parts store, and you'll be legal in most states. Orient is so it's facing down, for all-around visibility.

Cheap and cheerful, and quite effective for breaking up the cantilevers and simple spans into small parts, so the bending stress at any point is quite small.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,373
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Transporting anything should always be secured to be blunt. Saw many ways to carry masts and most damage was due to not checking after going 10=20 miles to make sure all secured or anything allowed to pivot. Have over million miles of towing boats.
 
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