Transom Seat Re-Varnishing

Marc14857 · May 28, 2013

Stern Rail Seats

jsmac said:
Hello,

I have two transom seats on my 1998 Hunter 410, each with a white laminate platform that is the base of the seat and several wood, assuming teak, slats which are sat on and which have been varnished and are in need of repare/re-varnishing. I think I can handle the old varnish removal but I'm concerned about re-varnishing and getting the varnish all over the laminate surface. The laminate is not real smooth, it's a little rough but I'm not sure what to do or how to protect it except cut long strips of tape which woudlbe a hassel, and I've never worked with varnish before like this. I have a picture attached and would greatly asppreciate any instructions.

Also, and suggestions on the varnish application? I have them here at home so the conditions can be controlled. What brand, how many applications, how best to prep the wood?

Thanks

Just refinished the seats on my H44. They look very similar to your picture. I removed the seats from the boat and the slats from the laminate and sanded the old varnish off. It goes quickly with a power screwdriver. I next applied 3 coats of Cetol natural and reinstalled the slats after everything dried. I think in the long run removing the slats is the easiest way to go.

sailor420 · May 28, 2013

Ismac,
The teak slats are removable and unscrew from the bottom. I find it easier to take the whole seat off and bring it home to do the it. Number them so it is easier to put them back in the right place. I use cetol and it holds up well.

Mulf · May 28, 2013

I just removed the teak strips.

I have cushions for those two seats that snap on so why keep one more thing to take care of before you can go sailing?

Rich Stidger · May 28, 2013

When you number the slats, add a letter to specify which seat they are from. Also, if you are sanding to remove the old varnish, be careful because the tips of the screws are very close to the surface of the wood.

I use Minwax Helmsman outdoor poly for refinishing. I like the color and it holds up as well as anything else I've tried.

Marc14857 · May 28, 2013

Sanding Stern Seats

jsmac said:
Great advice, thanks everyone.

Is sanding the easiest way to remove? I can do that easily but wasn't sure if there was a chemical solution, which i don't prefer.

I sanded the old finish off with 120 and 220 sandpaper. Need to be careful however as if you sand too much the screws on the bottom holding the slats in place start to come through when you reinstall them. I had to replace several of the screws with shorter ones.

Tally Ho · May 28, 2013

jsmac said:
Great advice, thanks everyone.

Is sanding the easiest way to remove? I can do that easily but wasn't sure if there was a chemical solution, which i don't prefer.

Here is a link to some before and after photos of my perch seats when I removed them to refinish the teak slats...

I sanded them, and varnished with Helmsman Spar Varnish. They lasted through last season ok, and I remove them for winter since my boat sits outside.

http://www.wcwebs.net/hunter280/2011Layup/index.htm

Greg

Sailgunner · May 28, 2013

I sanded mine on my bench sander. I put 5-6 coats of good marine varnish. The secret to making it last is to have covers made for the seats when not in use. My wife made sunbrella covers with Velcro on the bottom to hold them on.

Steve Dion · May 28, 2013

Remove the slats and purchase a set of bottom siders.

canuck · May 28, 2013

I purchased 3/4" starboard with an anti skid backing and cut two new stern seats. No more maintenance and safer. I hated those cup inserts. Nice minimalist look.

Bob 04 H260 · May 29, 2013

I am doing my slats right now too. I found a heat gun and scraper will take the finish off without removing any wood. Then only wood only needs a very light sanding. I can see a few places where they have been sanded down so the tips of the screws have left a grey stain in the teak. After they are cleaned up I'll try bleaching out the stains with oxalic acid, are there any other options ? thinking maybe teak cleaners ?

Bob

Jake N Eggs · May 29, 2013

Some of the screws are countersunk deeper than others. This causes the screw tip to break the finished surface. Once the finish is compromised the water gets in and the finish starts to go bad.

I have foam princess seats that I use while sailing but I like the contrast of the wood on the seats while the cushions are not on. What I don't like is the maintenance. I redid mine this year for the second time since 2006. That's twice in 7 half years in northern sun. It would be nice to find a non maintenance material that could be screwed on to maintain the look.

jnronekama · May 29, 2013

jsmac said:
Hello,

I have two transom seats on my 1998 Hunter 410, each with a white laminate platform that is the base of the seat and several wood, assuming teak, slats which are sat on and which have been varnished and are in need of repare/re-varnishing. I think I can handle the old varnish removal but I'm concerned about re-varnishing and getting the varnish all over the laminate surface. The laminate is not real smooth, it's a little rough but I'm not sure what to do or how to protect it except cut long strips of tape which woudlbe a hassel, and I've never worked with varnish before like this. I have a picture attached and would greatly asppreciate any instructions.

Also, and suggestions on the varnish application? I have them here at home so the conditions can be controlled. What brand, how many applications, how best to prep the wood?

Thanks

As part of our plans and improvements on our 2000 410, we replaced the wood strips with strips of composite decking material. No need for any refinishing and the color is perfect!

Rich Stidger · May 29, 2013

jnronekama said:
As part of our plans and improvements on our 2000 410, we replaced the wood strips with strips of composite decking material. No need for any refinishing and the color is perfect!

I have been thinking about doing the same. Where did you get the composite material and can you get it in the right width and thickness or did you have to cut it?

captainpat · May 30, 2013

Yes - let us know where you got the composite material.

Rick D · May 31, 2013

What Rich S Said...

I was going to make my suggestions, but found that Rich does exactly what I do. I do fill the screw holes with epoxy before I reassemble for a good bite.

I also use Helmsman Spar varnish while I could find it but I have not been able to get it in California. I just scored some in Mexico and am a happy guy!

BTW, I don't take the seats off to refinish them unless I need to strip them which I have one once only. I find a small foam brush will give you a good way to cut in the sides even without using tape with little problem. Of course, I did own a wood boat for almost 20 years....

And, Yes Steve, when I saw the condition of my seats refinished just last season with water-based California 'clear wood finish' I was ready to do just as you suggested. However, after two days of putting good varnish on it, I'm happy again.

Fred7825 · Jun 3, 2013

Too much work

I used stripper. Lightly sanded . Applied the best marine varnish. Applied about six coats. I lightly sand each year and just about pour the varnish on. Must have about nine coats on now and they look great. I saw no benefit in removing the slats

jnronekama · Jun 3, 2013

We used composite decking from Lowes or Home Depot.. I believe it was a 2x4 and cut it to match the slats on the seat.

Transom Seat Re-Varnishing

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