Transom Leak

[Bing13178]

We have a new Bavaria 31 (Oct.08). A transom leak was discovered at commissioning and a shipwright patched it on the inside. Now, it is leaking in another spot. The dealer wants to repair it from the inside again. We believe it should be tackled from the outside, i.e., taking the rubber off and completely resealing the join where the deck joins the hull. We think that it would be best to stop the water from the outside rather than trying to plug the leak from the inside once the water has made its way in? Anyone had any experience with trying to stop quite a major leak from the inside, and with any success? Any experts in fibreglass out there who can tell us what would be the best thing to do?

 

[Tim R.]

Jude, can you be more specific? Photos would be very helpfull. Both inside and out. Why not repair from both sides?

 

[sailingdog]

One good reason to stop it from the outside is if your boat ever goes into areas where the temperatures are below freezing. If there is any water trapped inside the hull-deck join, it will freeze, expand and destroy the join.

 

[Ross]

Kinda sorta like repairing a roof leak from the inside. You still have the leak but where does the water go?

 

[Bing13178]

Thanks for the input. Ross, my thoughts exactly. Sailiing Dog, no we never go into water that cold. But what damage could that water do to the integrity of the fibreglass at any temperature? Tim, it's very hard to photograph, however the leak is now above where the original repair was done, so looks like the water is finding a new path in. And the dealer is adamant that it be fixed from the inside and that no damage will be caused to the fibreglass. He won't entertain spending any more money. We're thinking that we might pay the extra to have it done on both sides. Nothing worse than a leaky boat!

 

[sailaway78]

I would never ever consider fixing any leak from the inside. The leak is still leaking, and the water has to go somewhere. Sooner or later the water is going to end up on the inside. Just like Ross said, it's still leaking. Sounds to me like the dealer just doesn't want to go to the expense. As hard as it is to get to the inside of the transom, they are probably just smearing something like 5200 in there, and hoping for the best. A half ass fix on a new boat should not even be an option.

 

[Ross]

I would assemble all of the documentation that I have and send them copies by certified mail and tell them that I will make this a legal matter if they continue to refuse to make a proper repair also send copies to the manufacturer.

 

[Bing13178]

I agree. They are going to use gel coat and say that it will fix the problem. Can anyone direct me to a site that will definitively say what effect constant water ingress will have on fibreglass, e.g. osmosis or whatever. I need to bombard them with facts because they are treating us like idiots who don't know anything. And yes, legal action will be an option.

 

[Ross]

Jude, Diapers and rubber pants on a baby keep the person carrying the baby clean but they don't solve the soiled diaper problem. Just how big a problem is it for them to expose the hull/deck joint and correct some poor workmanship?

 

[rpwillia]

I agree with Ross and the rest. Dealer is trying to get away on the cheap when the job is probably fairly simple. I think I would deal with Bavaria direct. It can be more than 4-6 hours to take off the bumper, caulk and re-install so the water does not get into the boat in the first place.

 

[CalebD]

You know you have a leak because you can see water inside the hull on the transom. You say that you THINK that the water is getting in through the hull/deck joint. Here is where a picture of the transom from the outside of the boat would be helpful (as TimR suggested). How do you KNOW that the water is getting in at the hull/deck joint? The water could be getting in on the deck from a deck fitting or rub rail screw(s). It is hard to say without knowing how the hull/deck joint is actually put together.
Is it rainwater that is getting in? Is it dew? What kind of rub/toe rail is on your transom? Pushpit (stern rail)? Other fittings nearby on the deck? Again, a picture would be helpful. The dealer probably does not want to have to take off ALL the hardware at or near the transom and re-bed everything. You know where the leak manifests its self inside the boat but you really don't know where the leak starts on the outside - or do you? I would think that this could take a day or two to repair if the source(s) of the leak is not really known. What is the rate of the local 'professional' workers? This is why the dealer does not want to sink another (up to) $2K (depending on labor rate) into the boat for a repair that may not even fix the problem.
It is not good to have water leaching in the laminated glass but it will take some time for the moisture to do it's dirty work. How long? Kind of does not matter as it seems it is a new boat and this should not be happening but it is.
It would be best if you could find the exact source(s) of the leak and fix it (or have it fixed).
Good luck and post a picture of your stern if you can.

 

[Manny]

I'd make a call to Bavaria, this is a warranty issue. The dealer shouldn't give you the runaround and should be in direct contact with Bavaria to get the leak fixed properly.

Manny

 

[Bing13178]

CalebD, thanks. But yes, we do know it is coming in through the hull/deck join. On the outside there is a rubber "bumper". This I believe is to "pretty up" where the join is. The water that comes in is, when it rains, fresh water that flows down the whole deck to the transom area. When sailing, it is sea water that comes over the hull when it's rough. We have found where it's coming in on the inside, but haven't had the rubber off to see the exact spot. It's not such a big area to reseal as it's a small boat.

Manny, as far as making a call to Bavaria, that is certainly an option. However, the boat's warranty, unless it's major structural, is the responsibility of the dealer here in Australia. We are about to try and email Bavaria to let them know we are being given the runaround.

It's a real shame, because it's a great little boat, and our experience is being sullied by poor service.

 

[jibes138]

Have you already accepted delivery of the boat?

If you haven't transferred title, you said it was a commissioning problem, can you just demand a refund of your deposit and walk away? The hull deck joint is not something you can take apart and rebed, so how do you get sealant between the hull and deck joint after it is already assembled? At best you are putting a patch over the area and it is a solution you might expect for an old boat that develops a leak but for a brand new boat there is no excuse for them not taking the time on this critical joint to do it right. Deck hull joints should be glassed over but few manufacturers will spend the money to do it. I think Amel might be one of them.

 

[Bing13178]

jibes, when I say at commissioning, it was after we had paid for the boat. So no, we can't walk away, but then, we're not letting them getting away with it either.

 

[John]

I had a similar type problem although it had nothing to do with boating. I threatened to get some friends and picket the place. They made it right within 24 hours.

 

[Bing13178]

Yes, it's certainly not a good sign for either the dealer or the manufacturer.

 

[BobM]

I agree with the others. Nobody is going to sell me a brand new boat and get me to put up with an improperly repaired transom leak. I'd demand that the factory get involved and define what the repair is. If they give you the runaround I'd hire a surveyor to do a directed inspection and submit that to them and the dealer. You should be able to get one for a reduced cost versus a full inspection, perhaps as little as $100-200. Good luck.

 

[sailingdog]

I agree with the others. Nobody is going to sell me a brand new boat and get me to put up with an improperly repaired transom leak. I'd demand that the factory get involved and define what the repair is. If they give you the runaround I'd hire a surveyor to do a directed inspection and submit that to them and the dealer. You should be able to get one for a reduced cost versus a full inspection, perhaps as little as $100-200. Good luck.

Don't forget to bill the dealer for the survey...

 

[John]

How we can help

It seems to me that if people from this list sent Bavaria as well as the dealer in question notes asking about this case, that might have an effect on them. Nobody would be justified in taking a position, in my opinion, since we haven't heard both sides, but if we simply inquired, I think it would help.

What do you think?