Transmission or damper plate issue?

njlarry

njlarry

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Sep 23, 2009
1,477
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
universal M-24xpb with ZF-10N transmission. Just over 200 hrs, new 2010.
A few time this past season it seemed not be in gear while maneuvering in the marina. While taking it to the fuel dock for final pump out and top off it seemed to be going slower than it should for the RPM. Shaft was turning. After a few minutes it seemed to suddenly engage fully and speed was normal again. Other than checking the ATF level and replacing the prop shaft key when lap fitting the prop as Main Sail outlines, I have not touched the drive train in the three years I have owned her.
So lots of questions:
Does this sound like a clutch or damper plate issue?
How hard is it to get the trans off the engine? How heavy are they?
I have a PSS shaft seal would that leak if done in the water? The boat is on the hard now. Would like to maybe try the diesel fluid flush trick first in the spring after launch if that may help.
If I do remove it, where should it be rebuilt?
I know, I ask a lot o questions for someone from NJ but marine transmissions is one of the many topics I know nothing about.
 
KD3PC

KD3PC

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Sep 25, 2008
1,069
boatless rainbow Callao, VA
Sounds like clutches, IIRC this has multi-disc clutch pack. You need to make sure the fluid is the one recommended by ZF. The clutch life depends on this friction fluid to work properly. Damperplate will usually make more noticeable noise, and more often...slippage is almost always in the clutch pack.

The trans is fairly light weight, 100lbs or so, it will mash fingers though. Not hard to remove, assuming shaft maintenance and condition is good.

Any movement in the shaft fore and aft will likely cause the seal to leak or lose prime....likely not a lot, but worrisome none the less. I would opt for repair on the hard, easier and less risk to the boat.

Do not be quick with the diesel fuel flush, a NEW, 200 hour reverser is not a candidate, period. This would likely be an expensive mistake, IMHO. This unit should go 2000 hours with drain and fill maintenance, before major overhaul

IF you are going to "clean" things, put some power to the unit in forward, and then when up to a good speed, reverse the unit. Likely will cavitate, but should start to bite and reverse. Do this two or three times at 30-50% throttle. Then drain and refill the gearbox with the correct and correct amount of ZF fluid.

Any reputable shop should be able to handle the rebuild. ZF is HQ in Michigan, but I would use Transatlantic Diesel in Hayes, VA as they are driving distance from you and are known in the area.
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
10,211
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Make sure, before doing anything else, that the transmission cable is pushing the lever consistently all the way into gear..
EDIT I agree it is not a damper plate issue and agree with verifying the transmission oil is the correct one for your unit..probably an ATF fluid
 
njlarry

njlarry

.
Sep 23, 2009
1,477
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Thank you KD for all the good advice. The manual says only to use ATF which judging from the redish color is what was used. I guess here is no way to tell if it is also type F ATF. (I understand from other posts that type F has more friction). I also do not know if it was changed at 25 hrs. I will forgo the diesel flush as you advise. .
Kloudie, I will check the gear lever next time onboard. Thank you
Looks like I may have to remove it and send it out. I don't want to launch and then rehaul in the spring.
 
Last edited:
KD3PC

KD3PC

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Sep 25, 2008
1,069
boatless rainbow Callao, VA
I would check the manual or with ZF as the ZF-10N requires Dexron - that my be the whole issue..
 
D

dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
14,002
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Had my transmission out this summer because all the fluid leaked out. It was a Kanzaki/Hurth and weighed about 40 lbs.

Removing is simple, if you can reach all the bolts. It is easier to remove if you move everything out of the way, exhaust hoses, wiring bundles, etc. etc. On my boat it was necessary to lift the engine a few inches to access the lowest and hardest to reach bolts. YMMV.

At least on my Sabre 362 the transmission can be removed while the boat is in the water with a PYI Shaft Seal. If you do this, make sure your bilge pump is working as you will take on water while adjusting everything. My Rule Float switch failed. :(

If you have to move the engine try not to move the lower mounting bolts, it will make aligning the engine and prop shaft easier. If you do this over the winter on the hard, you will need to align the shaft once the boat is in the water.

You're in NJ, that's a good thing. East Coast Marine Transmissions in South Amboy comes highly recommended. Rick was one of the main transmission mechanics at Mack-Boring (Yanmar Distributors) until M-B got out of the repair and install business. East Coast Marine Transmission He is really helpful, give him a call or send an email with your questions.
 
njlarry

njlarry

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Sep 23, 2009
1,477
O'Day 34-At Last Rock Hall, Md
Thank you for the very informative link. Am I right to assume that a 2010 xpb is not early enough to have the problem?
 
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