Iam installing an "in the hull" transducer this weekend in my M 26, any recomendations as to location, and brand of epoxy that should be used.
- Status
Laz
Even the manufacturers recommend installing them aft. They usually provide transom mount brackets. Most of us stick them in the Laz. My transducer has a temp sensor built in. It doesn't respond as quickly to temp changes as it would sitting directly in the water but it is adequate for my use. Any slow curing epoxy is good. Just be sure to mix it well and work out any air cavities.
Even the manufacturers recommend installing them aft. They usually provide transom mount brackets. Most of us stick them in the Laz. My transducer has a temp sensor built in. It doesn't respond as quickly to temp changes as it would sitting directly in the water but it is adequate for my use. Any slow curing epoxy is good. Just be sure to mix it well and work out any air cavities.
Transducer Location
I installed my transducer under the rear berth on the port side of the ballast tank. I epoxied it in. How ever, it did not work correctly. Kept shutting down with no depth reading. Would work off and on. I finally installed one on the back of the transom. Works perfect all the time.
I installed my transducer under the rear berth on the port side of the ballast tank. I epoxied it in. How ever, it did not work correctly. Kept shutting down with no depth reading. Would work off and on. I finally installed one on the back of the transom. Works perfect all the time.
use silicone - to try
If you mount the puck in silicone (no bubbles), you can try different spots. clay is even better for quick tests. unless you want a temp or knot meter I'd keep it inside the hull.
If you mount the puck in silicone (no bubbles), you can try different spots. clay is even better for quick tests. unless you want a temp or knot meter I'd keep it inside the hull.
Transducer mounting
The best way to try mounting locations is (with the boat in at least 6 feet of water) to: 1. Dangle the transducer in the water (pointing down) to get a signal strength or gray scale indication. 2. Fill a baggy or balloon with water. 3. Place the transducer on the baggy on the hull at the target mounting location. 4. If the signal strength (or gray scale) is almost as good as in the water, that's a good location. If not, try another. 5. With the best location found (away from any significant keel turbulence, and with the transducer as perpendicular to the sea bottom as possible), mount the transducer. 6. To mount the transducer: a) Sand the radiating surface of the transducer and the hull surface. b) Ensure there's no moisture, grease, silicone, or bilge gunk. c) Mix a small amount of fibreglass resin, and pour onto the sanded hull surface (about 1/4" deep). d) Push the sanded transducer face into the resin, rocking back and forth to ensure no air bubbles are trapped. e) Check the signal strength while curing to ensure its as good as with the baggy. (Don't mix the resin too hot or it could overheat the transducer.) (Epoxy will work, but some can soften when immersed in water for extended periods.) (Don't use silicone seal, it will reduce signal strength and maximum depth reading, and make it difficult to get a good bond with resin or epoxy.)
The best way to try mounting locations is (with the boat in at least 6 feet of water) to: 1. Dangle the transducer in the water (pointing down) to get a signal strength or gray scale indication. 2. Fill a baggy or balloon with water. 3. Place the transducer on the baggy on the hull at the target mounting location. 4. If the signal strength (or gray scale) is almost as good as in the water, that's a good location. If not, try another. 5. With the best location found (away from any significant keel turbulence, and with the transducer as perpendicular to the sea bottom as possible), mount the transducer. 6. To mount the transducer: a) Sand the radiating surface of the transducer and the hull surface. b) Ensure there's no moisture, grease, silicone, or bilge gunk. c) Mix a small amount of fibreglass resin, and pour onto the sanded hull surface (about 1/4" deep). d) Push the sanded transducer face into the resin, rocking back and forth to ensure no air bubbles are trapped. e) Check the signal strength while curing to ensure its as good as with the baggy. (Don't mix the resin too hot or it could overheat the transducer.) (Epoxy will work, but some can soften when immersed in water for extended periods.) (Don't use silicone seal, it will reduce signal strength and maximum depth reading, and make it difficult to get a good bond with resin or epoxy.)
- Status