I recently purchased an O'Day 25 and have to go pick it up in New Jersey. I've also obtained a customizable sailboat trailer. My question is this: when setting up the trailer, should the weight of the boat rest primarily on the keel or on the trailer pads? There are two 6' pads (one on each side) and a set of rollers near where the bow will sit. Thanks in advance for your help.
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I recently purchased an O'Day 25 and have to go pick it up in New Jersey. I've also obtained a customizable sailboat trailer. My question is this: when setting up the trailer, should the weight of the boat rest primarily on the keel or on the trailer pads? There are two 6' pads (one on each side) and a set of rollers near where the bow will sit. Thanks in advance for your help.
Double check...however....
...the manual for my Oday 22 says to put most of the weight on the keel and let the bunks just kinda keep it from falling over. I assume the 25 is sort of a shoal draft with centerboard which probably calls for the same. Again, some other 25 owners can tell you better. Jack
...the manual for my Oday 22 says to put most of the weight on the keel and let the bunks just kinda keep it from falling over. I assume the 25 is sort of a shoal draft with centerboard which probably calls for the same. Again, some other 25 owners can tell you better. Jack
Double check...however....
...the manual for my Oday 22 says to put most of the weight on the keel and let the bunks just kinda keep it from falling over. I assume the 25 is sort of a shoal draft with centerboard which probably calls for the same. Again, some other 25 owners can tell you better. Jack
...the manual for my Oday 22 says to put most of the weight on the keel and let the bunks just kinda keep it from falling over. I assume the 25 is sort of a shoal draft with centerboard which probably calls for the same. Again, some other 25 owners can tell you better. Jack
Trailering
Jerry, I would like to echo what Joe say's about the boats CQ on the trailer. When I retired I towed my 23' O'Day from Buffalo down here to VA where I live now, with out any problems. Because of the design of my trailer I have to rely on a marina using a travel lift to place the boat on my trailer. This year when I had the boat hauled they placed the boat about 3" further aft on the trailer than ever before. I was somewhat skeptical about the placement but decided to press on and tow the boat to my house which is about 15 miles from the marina. What a thrill! I was not able to go over 40 miles an hour because the boat wanted fish tale all over the road. Those 3" made a huge difference in how the boat trailed. Lessons learned. That will NOT happen again. Good luck with your boat. George
Jerry, I would like to echo what Joe say's about the boats CQ on the trailer. When I retired I towed my 23' O'Day from Buffalo down here to VA where I live now, with out any problems. Because of the design of my trailer I have to rely on a marina using a travel lift to place the boat on my trailer. This year when I had the boat hauled they placed the boat about 3" further aft on the trailer than ever before. I was somewhat skeptical about the placement but decided to press on and tow the boat to my house which is about 15 miles from the marina. What a thrill! I was not able to go over 40 miles an hour because the boat wanted fish tale all over the road. Those 3" made a huge difference in how the boat trailed. Lessons learned. That will NOT happen again. Good luck with your boat. George
Trailering
Jerry, I would like to echo what Joe say's about the boats CQ on the trailer. When I retired I towed my 23' O'Day from Buffalo down here to VA where I live now, with out any problems. Because of the design of my trailer I have to rely on a marina using a travel lift to place the boat on my trailer. This year when I had the boat hauled they placed the boat about 3" further aft on the trailer than ever before. I was somewhat skeptical about the placement but decided to press on and tow the boat to my house which is about 15 miles from the marina. What a thrill! I was not able to go over 40 miles an hour because the boat wanted fish tale all over the road. Those 3" made a huge difference in how the boat trailed. Lessons learned. That will NOT happen again. Good luck with your boat. George
Jerry, I would like to echo what Joe say's about the boats CQ on the trailer. When I retired I towed my 23' O'Day from Buffalo down here to VA where I live now, with out any problems. Because of the design of my trailer I have to rely on a marina using a travel lift to place the boat on my trailer. This year when I had the boat hauled they placed the boat about 3" further aft on the trailer than ever before. I was somewhat skeptical about the placement but decided to press on and tow the boat to my house which is about 15 miles from the marina. What a thrill! I was not able to go over 40 miles an hour because the boat wanted fish tale all over the road. Those 3" made a huge difference in how the boat trailed. Lessons learned. That will NOT happen again. Good luck with your boat. George
Trailer set up
Jerry, I don't know if you're planning to load the boat from the water or have it lowered on to your trailer with a travel lift. If you were pulling it out of the water, I'd say to go ahead and get the bunks a little higher, even if the keel does not sit on the keel board of your trailer. It's better to have it a little high, than have the boat tip on you when you pull it out. You can always lower the boat with the help of a couple of sailboat stands on the stern, and your hydraulic jacks. The main thing would be to get the proper tongue weight first, even if you have to back down the ramp and let the boat float one way or the other a couple of inches. Of course, if the guy is lifting it on to your trailer, this procedure will be a whole lot easier. Once the proper weight is on the tongue, you can move your winch stanchion right up against the bow and tighten it down. If you have any concerns about whether the bunks my slip down on the trailer while your on your way home, you could probably bring some pieces of 2X4s to fit between the top of each cross member and the bottom of each bunk, against the extension brackets. You could bring a saw with you and cut them to fit. They could be attached to each extension bracket with tape or a couple of large zip ties. I got that idea from a friend of mine in our yacht club. He made his permanent with bolts to hold each 2X4. There's no way those bunks could slip down with that set up. Good luck and let us know how you made out. Joe
Jerry, I don't know if you're planning to load the boat from the water or have it lowered on to your trailer with a travel lift. If you were pulling it out of the water, I'd say to go ahead and get the bunks a little higher, even if the keel does not sit on the keel board of your trailer. It's better to have it a little high, than have the boat tip on you when you pull it out. You can always lower the boat with the help of a couple of sailboat stands on the stern, and your hydraulic jacks. The main thing would be to get the proper tongue weight first, even if you have to back down the ramp and let the boat float one way or the other a couple of inches. Of course, if the guy is lifting it on to your trailer, this procedure will be a whole lot easier. Once the proper weight is on the tongue, you can move your winch stanchion right up against the bow and tighten it down. If you have any concerns about whether the bunks my slip down on the trailer while your on your way home, you could probably bring some pieces of 2X4s to fit between the top of each cross member and the bottom of each bunk, against the extension brackets. You could bring a saw with you and cut them to fit. They could be attached to each extension bracket with tape or a couple of large zip ties. I got that idea from a friend of mine in our yacht club. He made his permanent with bolts to hold each 2X4. There's no way those bunks could slip down with that set up. Good luck and let us know how you made out. Joe
Trailer set up
Jerry, I don't know if you're planning to load the boat from the water or have it lowered on to your trailer with a travel lift. If you were pulling it out of the water, I'd say to go ahead and get the bunks a little higher, even if the keel does not sit on the keel board of your trailer. It's better to have it a little high, than have the boat tip on you when you pull it out. You can always lower the boat with the help of a couple of sailboat stands on the stern, and your hydraulic jacks. The main thing would be to get the proper tongue weight first, even if you have to back down the ramp and let the boat float one way or the other a couple of inches. Of course, if the guy is lifting it on to your trailer, this procedure will be a whole lot easier. Once the proper weight is on the tongue, you can move your winch stanchion right up against the bow and tighten it down. If you have any concerns about whether the bunks my slip down on the trailer while your on your way home, you could probably bring some pieces of 2X4s to fit between the top of each cross member and the bottom of each bunk, against the extension brackets. You could bring a saw with you and cut them to fit. They could be attached to each extension bracket with tape or a couple of large zip ties. I got that idea from a friend of mine in our yacht club. He made his permanent with bolts to hold each 2X4. There's no way those bunks could slip down with that set up. Good luck and let us know how you made out. Joe
Jerry, I don't know if you're planning to load the boat from the water or have it lowered on to your trailer with a travel lift. If you were pulling it out of the water, I'd say to go ahead and get the bunks a little higher, even if the keel does not sit on the keel board of your trailer. It's better to have it a little high, than have the boat tip on you when you pull it out. You can always lower the boat with the help of a couple of sailboat stands on the stern, and your hydraulic jacks. The main thing would be to get the proper tongue weight first, even if you have to back down the ramp and let the boat float one way or the other a couple of inches. Of course, if the guy is lifting it on to your trailer, this procedure will be a whole lot easier. Once the proper weight is on the tongue, you can move your winch stanchion right up against the bow and tighten it down. If you have any concerns about whether the bunks my slip down on the trailer while your on your way home, you could probably bring some pieces of 2X4s to fit between the top of each cross member and the bottom of each bunk, against the extension brackets. You could bring a saw with you and cut them to fit. They could be attached to each extension bracket with tape or a couple of large zip ties. I got that idea from a friend of mine in our yacht club. He made his permanent with bolts to hold each 2X4. There's no way those bunks could slip down with that set up. Good luck and let us know how you made out. Joe
Keel wight support
Jerry, Nice looking trailer. However, as many commentators have said already, on these O'Day boats, 23, 25 & 26, the weight is in the keel and the keel is strong. These boats are supported by the keel on a trailer. The bunks or pads only supporting the outer hull weight. Looking at your picture I only see one 2x10 for keel support. For an O'Day 25, I recommend adding a second treated 2x10 right under the one with the rug. It will better handle and distribute the keel weight across the trailer frame. This may require some drilling and new bolts, but you will feel better about the total weight on the support. I have three boards, but that is in part because I needed to raise the keel support to the lowest pads levels. Ed K O'Day 26
Jerry, Nice looking trailer. However, as many commentators have said already, on these O'Day boats, 23, 25 & 26, the weight is in the keel and the keel is strong. These boats are supported by the keel on a trailer. The bunks or pads only supporting the outer hull weight. Looking at your picture I only see one 2x10 for keel support. For an O'Day 25, I recommend adding a second treated 2x10 right under the one with the rug. It will better handle and distribute the keel weight across the trailer frame. This may require some drilling and new bolts, but you will feel better about the total weight on the support. I have three boards, but that is in part because I needed to raise the keel support to the lowest pads levels. Ed K O'Day 26
Keel wight support
Jerry, Nice looking trailer. However, as many commentators have said already, on these O'Day boats, 23, 25 & 26, the weight is in the keel and the keel is strong. These boats are supported by the keel on a trailer. The bunks or pads only supporting the outer hull weight. Looking at your picture I only see one 2x10 for keel support. For an O'Day 25, I recommend adding a second treated 2x10 right under the one with the rug. It will better handle and distribute the keel weight across the trailer frame. This may require some drilling and new bolts, but you will feel better about the total weight on the support. I have three boards, but that is in part because I needed to raise the keel support to the lowest pads levels. Ed K O'Day 26
Jerry, Nice looking trailer. However, as many commentators have said already, on these O'Day boats, 23, 25 & 26, the weight is in the keel and the keel is strong. These boats are supported by the keel on a trailer. The bunks or pads only supporting the outer hull weight. Looking at your picture I only see one 2x10 for keel support. For an O'Day 25, I recommend adding a second treated 2x10 right under the one with the rug. It will better handle and distribute the keel weight across the trailer frame. This may require some drilling and new bolts, but you will feel better about the total weight on the support. I have three boards, but that is in part because I needed to raise the keel support to the lowest pads levels. Ed K O'Day 26
Keel boards
Ed K is right about that Gerry. He has sharper eyes than I have. I didn't even pick up on that. I've probably mentioned this before on the forum but when I set my new Long Mfg. boat trailer up, I sandwiched two pressure treated 2X10 planks and used power company lightning arrestor brackets to attach it to the cross members on the trailer. By securing the boards in this fashion, I got away without having to drill any holes in the cross members. The power companies sometimes throw these new brackets away if they intend to mount the hardware on the pole with just one bolt,nut and washer. These galvanized brackets are for cross arms only, and they come in kits for lightning arrestors, Urd Pot heads, and fused Cutouts. All that is really needed from the bracket is the galvanized strap and the two 3/8" carriage bolts,nuts, and washers. The strap has a long jagged slot on one end, and a hole on the other end. So they are pretty adjustable to fit any size cross arm. I bored the planks and countersunk a shallow hole with a Forstner bit, so my keel wouldn't hit the carriage bolt head. I attached the straps under each cross member to the two carriage bolts with the nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I love bunk trailers, but sometimes the bow of my boat moves back from the bow roller on the winch stancheon a couple of inches when I pull her up the ramp. This is due to the angle of the trailer caused by incline of the ramp, and the boat floating on the water. My friend Wayne has come up with a solution to this problem by using a detachable hydraulic bottle jack with a boat roller attached to it, and placed under the bow of the boat on the trailer. I've seen it and it works. So as soon as he perfects it, I plan on stealing his idea in the same way that I stole his mast raising/lowering Gin Pole idea. Good Luck
Ed K is right about that Gerry. He has sharper eyes than I have. I didn't even pick up on that. I've probably mentioned this before on the forum but when I set my new Long Mfg. boat trailer up, I sandwiched two pressure treated 2X10 planks and used power company lightning arrestor brackets to attach it to the cross members on the trailer. By securing the boards in this fashion, I got away without having to drill any holes in the cross members. The power companies sometimes throw these new brackets away if they intend to mount the hardware on the pole with just one bolt,nut and washer. These galvanized brackets are for cross arms only, and they come in kits for lightning arrestors, Urd Pot heads, and fused Cutouts. All that is really needed from the bracket is the galvanized strap and the two 3/8" carriage bolts,nuts, and washers. The strap has a long jagged slot on one end, and a hole on the other end. So they are pretty adjustable to fit any size cross arm. I bored the planks and countersunk a shallow hole with a Forstner bit, so my keel wouldn't hit the carriage bolt head. I attached the straps under each cross member to the two carriage bolts with the nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I love bunk trailers, but sometimes the bow of my boat moves back from the bow roller on the winch stancheon a couple of inches when I pull her up the ramp. This is due to the angle of the trailer caused by incline of the ramp, and the boat floating on the water. My friend Wayne has come up with a solution to this problem by using a detachable hydraulic bottle jack with a boat roller attached to it, and placed under the bow of the boat on the trailer. I've seen it and it works. So as soon as he perfects it, I plan on stealing his idea in the same way that I stole his mast raising/lowering Gin Pole idea. Good Luck
Keel boards
Ed K is right about that Gerry. He has sharper eyes than I have. I didn't even pick up on that. I've probably mentioned this before on the forum but when I set my new Long Mfg. boat trailer up, I sandwiched two pressure treated 2X10 planks and used power company lightning arrestor brackets to attach it to the cross members on the trailer. By securing the boards in this fashion, I got away without having to drill any holes in the cross members. The power companies sometimes throw these new brackets away if they intend to mount the hardware on the pole with just one bolt,nut and washer. These galvanized brackets are for cross arms only, and they come in kits for lightning arrestors, Urd Pot heads, and fused Cutouts. All that is really needed from the bracket is the galvanized strap and the two 3/8" carriage bolts,nuts, and washers. The strap has a long jagged slot on one end, and a hole on the other end. So they are pretty adjustable to fit any size cross arm. I bored the planks and countersunk a shallow hole with a Forstner bit, so my keel wouldn't hit the carriage bolt head. I attached the straps under each cross member to the two carriage bolts with the nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I love bunk trailers, but sometimes the bow of my boat moves back from the bow roller on the winch stancheon a couple of inches when I pull her up the ramp. This is due to the angle of the trailer caused by incline of the ramp, and the boat floating on the water. My friend Wayne has come up with a solution to this problem by using a detachable hydraulic bottle jack with a boat roller attached to it, and placed under the bow of the boat on the trailer. I've seen it and it works. So as soon as he perfects it, I plan on stealing his idea in the same way that I stole his mast raising/lowering Gin Pole idea. Good Luck
Ed K is right about that Gerry. He has sharper eyes than I have. I didn't even pick up on that. I've probably mentioned this before on the forum but when I set my new Long Mfg. boat trailer up, I sandwiched two pressure treated 2X10 planks and used power company lightning arrestor brackets to attach it to the cross members on the trailer. By securing the boards in this fashion, I got away without having to drill any holes in the cross members. The power companies sometimes throw these new brackets away if they intend to mount the hardware on the pole with just one bolt,nut and washer. These galvanized brackets are for cross arms only, and they come in kits for lightning arrestors, Urd Pot heads, and fused Cutouts. All that is really needed from the bracket is the galvanized strap and the two 3/8" carriage bolts,nuts, and washers. The strap has a long jagged slot on one end, and a hole on the other end. So they are pretty adjustable to fit any size cross arm. I bored the planks and countersunk a shallow hole with a Forstner bit, so my keel wouldn't hit the carriage bolt head. I attached the straps under each cross member to the two carriage bolts with the nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I love bunk trailers, but sometimes the bow of my boat moves back from the bow roller on the winch stancheon a couple of inches when I pull her up the ramp. This is due to the angle of the trailer caused by incline of the ramp, and the boat floating on the water. My friend Wayne has come up with a solution to this problem by using a detachable hydraulic bottle jack with a boat roller attached to it, and placed under the bow of the boat on the trailer. I've seen it and it works. So as soon as he perfects it, I plan on stealing his idea in the same way that I stole his mast raising/lowering Gin Pole idea. Good Luck
There is already a piece of channel iron under the 2X10 that is welded to the trailer supports. It looks pretty sturdy. In any case, this whole thing will not take place til March. (The marina closed for the winter before I could get up there to get the boat.) I'm just trying to do my homework ahead of time. Jerry
There is already a piece of channel iron under the 2X10 that is welded to the trailer supports. It looks pretty sturdy. In any case, this whole thing will not take place til March. (The marina closed for the winter before I could get up there to get the boat.) I'm just trying to do my homework ahead of time. Jerry
Bow rest issue
Joe, I think the positioning problem of the bow onto the bow rest is pretty common. Oddly enough, the problem is worse at the best (steepest) ramps. If I back my trailer in far enough so that the keel will float onto the center bunk, I end up with the bow eye level with the rubber support. One suggestion would be to add a roller that lifts the bow just as it approaches that point but an even easier solution is to just pull the trailer up the ramp a couple feet so the stern isn't floating any more and winch the boat in the final inch or two. Using one of those bunk lubricating products can make the winching a lot easier too. It really isn't a problem of the bow being to low, but one of the stern being too high. Lifting the boat at one point with a hydraulic bottle jack makes me nervous.
Joe, I think the positioning problem of the bow onto the bow rest is pretty common. Oddly enough, the problem is worse at the best (steepest) ramps. If I back my trailer in far enough so that the keel will float onto the center bunk, I end up with the bow eye level with the rubber support. One suggestion would be to add a roller that lifts the bow just as it approaches that point but an even easier solution is to just pull the trailer up the ramp a couple feet so the stern isn't floating any more and winch the boat in the final inch or two. Using one of those bunk lubricating products can make the winching a lot easier too. It really isn't a problem of the bow being to low, but one of the stern being too high. Lifting the boat at one point with a hydraulic bottle jack makes me nervous.
Bow rest issue
Joe, I think the positioning problem of the bow onto the bow rest is pretty common. Oddly enough, the problem is worse at the best (steepest) ramps. If I back my trailer in far enough so that the keel will float onto the center bunk, I end up with the bow eye level with the rubber support. One suggestion would be to add a roller that lifts the bow just as it approaches that point but an even easier solution is to just pull the trailer up the ramp a couple feet so the stern isn't floating any more and winch the boat in the final inch or two. Using one of those bunk lubricating products can make the winching a lot easier too. It really isn't a problem of the bow being to low, but one of the stern being too high. Lifting the boat at one point with a hydraulic bottle jack makes me nervous.
Joe, I think the positioning problem of the bow onto the bow rest is pretty common. Oddly enough, the problem is worse at the best (steepest) ramps. If I back my trailer in far enough so that the keel will float onto the center bunk, I end up with the bow eye level with the rubber support. One suggestion would be to add a roller that lifts the bow just as it approaches that point but an even easier solution is to just pull the trailer up the ramp a couple feet so the stern isn't floating any more and winch the boat in the final inch or two. Using one of those bunk lubricating products can make the winching a lot easier too. It really isn't a problem of the bow being to low, but one of the stern being too high. Lifting the boat at one point with a hydraulic bottle jack makes me nervous.
Is channel iron one inch thick?
I think you will find a piece of channel iron under each side of most keel boards. I still recommend two 2x10's, unless the channel iron is one inch thick. (yes there is such stuff, just not often in boat trailers) Ed K "There is one category of advertising which is totally uncontrolled and flagrantly dishonest: the television commercials for candidates in Presidential elections." David Ogilvy
I think you will find a piece of channel iron under each side of most keel boards. I still recommend two 2x10's, unless the channel iron is one inch thick. (yes there is such stuff, just not often in boat trailers) Ed K "There is one category of advertising which is totally uncontrolled and flagrantly dishonest: the television commercials for candidates in Presidential elections." David Ogilvy
Is channel iron one inch thick?
I think you will find a piece of channel iron under each side of most keel boards. I still recommend two 2x10's, unless the channel iron is one inch thick. (yes there is such stuff, just not often in boat trailers) Ed K "There is one category of advertising which is totally uncontrolled and flagrantly dishonest: the television commercials for candidates in Presidential elections." David Ogilvy
I think you will find a piece of channel iron under each side of most keel boards. I still recommend two 2x10's, unless the channel iron is one inch thick. (yes there is such stuff, just not often in boat trailers) Ed K "There is one category of advertising which is totally uncontrolled and flagrantly dishonest: the television commercials for candidates in Presidential elections." David Ogilvy
Bow rest issue reply
Dave K. I'm going to use that slippery plastic stuff on my keel boards, and put some kind of a lubricant on it. Then I'll try what you said about moving the boat up the ramp a little to get the bow up against the roller. But what Wayne has come up with is almost the same as installing a small permanent bow roller under the bow of the boat. The only difference is, he has some adjustment to get the bow eye even with the winch cable or strap, and this is done while the boat in the water and up against the bow roller of the winch stanchion. There was nothing hazardous that I could see when he demonstrated it a few months ago. The only thing is, you have to get in the water to work the jack, which is no big problem. Anyway, I'll take your advise and give that a shot. I need to do something because the day that I pulled my boat out of the water, I broke the pall on my Fulton two gear ratio 3200 Lbs, boat winch. So I have to order another pall and install it before the spring. I think that my Fulton 2800 Lbs two gear winch was better than this one. I wish I'd have kept it, now. Joe
Dave K. I'm going to use that slippery plastic stuff on my keel boards, and put some kind of a lubricant on it. Then I'll try what you said about moving the boat up the ramp a little to get the bow up against the roller. But what Wayne has come up with is almost the same as installing a small permanent bow roller under the bow of the boat. The only difference is, he has some adjustment to get the bow eye even with the winch cable or strap, and this is done while the boat in the water and up against the bow roller of the winch stanchion. There was nothing hazardous that I could see when he demonstrated it a few months ago. The only thing is, you have to get in the water to work the jack, which is no big problem. Anyway, I'll take your advise and give that a shot. I need to do something because the day that I pulled my boat out of the water, I broke the pall on my Fulton two gear ratio 3200 Lbs, boat winch. So I have to order another pall and install it before the spring. I think that my Fulton 2800 Lbs two gear winch was better than this one. I wish I'd have kept it, now. Joe
Bow rest issue reply
Dave K. I'm going to use that slippery plastic stuff on my keel boards, and put some kind of a lubricant on it. Then I'll try what you said about moving the boat up the ramp a little to get the bow up against the roller. But what Wayne has come up with is almost the same as installing a small permanent bow roller under the bow of the boat. The only difference is, he has some adjustment to get the bow eye even with the winch cable or strap, and this is done while the boat in the water and up against the bow roller of the winch stanchion. There was nothing hazardous that I could see when he demonstrated it a few months ago. The only thing is, you have to get in the water to work the jack, which is no big problem. Anyway, I'll take your advise and give that a shot. I need to do something because the day that I pulled my boat out of the water, I broke the pall on my Fulton two gear ratio 3200 Lbs, boat winch. So I have to order another pall and install it before the spring. I think that my Fulton 2800 Lbs two gear winch was better than this one. I wish I'd have kept it, now. Joe
Dave K. I'm going to use that slippery plastic stuff on my keel boards, and put some kind of a lubricant on it. Then I'll try what you said about moving the boat up the ramp a little to get the bow up against the roller. But what Wayne has come up with is almost the same as installing a small permanent bow roller under the bow of the boat. The only difference is, he has some adjustment to get the bow eye even with the winch cable or strap, and this is done while the boat in the water and up against the bow roller of the winch stanchion. There was nothing hazardous that I could see when he demonstrated it a few months ago. The only thing is, you have to get in the water to work the jack, which is no big problem. Anyway, I'll take your advise and give that a shot. I need to do something because the day that I pulled my boat out of the water, I broke the pall on my Fulton two gear ratio 3200 Lbs, boat winch. So I have to order another pall and install it before the spring. I think that my Fulton 2800 Lbs two gear winch was better than this one. I wish I'd have kept it, now. Joe
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