Recently purchased H23 with trailer. Boat was in slip until we pulled it out today. Only been on the trailer twice according to the prior owner. Trailer has two long bunks and one small roller for the bow. Boat floated nicely onto the trailer and just had to winch the last foot or two. After pulling the boat out of the water I noticed the bow was off the forward roller by about 2" and aft of the forward bridle by about 1". Refloated boat and cinched up ratchet. Same thing occured after pulling boat out of water. It seems like the boat might be resting farther aft than it should but won't come forward any farther with the winch. Anyone else have any trouble with their trailer. Ours is a galvanized Ken's trailer, built in Alacua, FL. If you have any photos of your H23 on a trailer, please email them to me at 5nelsons@attbi.com. Thanks.
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Jason
Trailer
The forward most bow roller is only used while winching the boat ont the trailer out of the water. Once your boat is on the trailer allt the way the forward bow roller should not be touching the bow.
The forward most bow roller is only used while winching the boat ont the trailer out of the water. Once your boat is on the trailer allt the way the forward bow roller should not be touching the bow.
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Ray Bowles
Dave, Jason is right on. We have a 95 H26
which is a water ballast boat and rides on a Hunter trailer. Same as yours with two long bunks and a forward roller. I don't think any Hunter boat that has been loaded onto a trailer has ever gone all the way forward. I load my boat upon the trailer and pull it out of the water enough to drain the ballast tank and then refloat the boat. It now rides about 6 to 8" higher. I then load her up and crank like hell on the winch to pull it as far up as possible. Cinch her down and attach the safety chain. But by the time I'm on flat ground the bow is 1 to 2 inches back from the rubber bow cleat. She rides fine down the highway (from 30 to as far as 1100 miles) in that position. Do I like it? HELL NO! This spring I will add some of those teflon bunk pads sold by West Marine that are susposed to allow the boat to slide forward easier. I tried the liquid soap trick on the trailer pads but during the process of draining the ballast tank and then refloating the boat I had soap suds 2 feet tall everywhere. Thank God it was a cold, very wet cloudy day and no one was around. Check the forum archives under small boats using the term "trailer" for the year of 2001. There is alot of info about this problem. Ray S/V Speedy
which is a water ballast boat and rides on a Hunter trailer. Same as yours with two long bunks and a forward roller. I don't think any Hunter boat that has been loaded onto a trailer has ever gone all the way forward. I load my boat upon the trailer and pull it out of the water enough to drain the ballast tank and then refloat the boat. It now rides about 6 to 8" higher. I then load her up and crank like hell on the winch to pull it as far up as possible. Cinch her down and attach the safety chain. But by the time I'm on flat ground the bow is 1 to 2 inches back from the rubber bow cleat. She rides fine down the highway (from 30 to as far as 1100 miles) in that position. Do I like it? HELL NO! This spring I will add some of those teflon bunk pads sold by West Marine that are susposed to allow the boat to slide forward easier. I tried the liquid soap trick on the trailer pads but during the process of draining the ballast tank and then refloating the boat I had soap suds 2 feet tall everywhere. Thank God it was a cold, very wet cloudy day and no one was around. Check the forum archives under small boats using the term "trailer" for the year of 2001. There is alot of info about this problem. Ray S/V Speedy
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Jon Bastien
A few things...
First, check the archives. There are MANY articles regarding the way an H23 should be pulled outta the water, how it should sit on the trailer (Your trailer is the stock trailer that came with the boat, so most of the advice in the archives is good), mast raising and lowering, and some improvements and tips for sailing this boat from people who've been through it. That said, I'll recap the common problem and solution for the bow not resting in the cradle when you pull the boat. When you back your trailer down the ramp, it's at about a 15-20 degree angle to the floating boat. Not a problem, this is normal... When you attach the boat to the trailer and winch it up good and tight, the angle between the boat and the trailer is still not the same- The trailer is at about 15 degrees, and the boat is somewhere around 7 (if you're lucky). When you pull the boat out of the water, the trailer and the boat level out, the keel makes contact with the lower platform, and the boat rocks back and pulls away from the winch/cradle assembly on the trailer by anywhere from 2 to 10 inches. THIS IS NORMAL!. There are a few ways of moving the boat forward into the cradle, and most of us who are willing to post a method believe ours is the best; You can search on any of the following in the archives. The popular choices are: -- Soap on the bunks, and winch like Hell. Personally, I think this puts undue stress on the bow eye, and you risk pulling out through the fiberglass. -- The "MacGregor Stomp" (My preferred method, when I owned an H23.) Search for it in the archives, you'll get the method in detail. -- Back the boat into a solid object until it moves forward on the trailer (NOT recommended by anyone, but one owner claims success). -- Pull the boat, put tension on the winch, float it again, and pull it again. Repeat until boat is where you want it on the trailer. (I did this until I discovered the MacGregor Stomp.) There are a few other methods, but these are the ones that immediately jump to mind. I've tried all of these except backing the boat into a solid object. One last item; There's a roller on the trailer that will not be in contact with your boat when it sits level on the trailer. 'Tis normal- The roller is there to help the nose of the boat ride up to the cradle when you are putting the boat on the trailer at the ramp, and to help the boat roll off the trailer when you launch it. If it works where it is, don't get any urges to move it... Also, check back here often! This site has a double metric ton of info about the H23- the archive articles on the H23 alone will keep you occupied for hours, and it's all good info. I learned more about my H23 here than from anywhere else, and the folks here genuinely want to help you have a good time with your boat- Sailing it, repairing it, modifying it, or whatever else. Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum! --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio' (A Former H23 owner)
First, check the archives. There are MANY articles regarding the way an H23 should be pulled outta the water, how it should sit on the trailer (Your trailer is the stock trailer that came with the boat, so most of the advice in the archives is good), mast raising and lowering, and some improvements and tips for sailing this boat from people who've been through it. That said, I'll recap the common problem and solution for the bow not resting in the cradle when you pull the boat. When you back your trailer down the ramp, it's at about a 15-20 degree angle to the floating boat. Not a problem, this is normal... When you attach the boat to the trailer and winch it up good and tight, the angle between the boat and the trailer is still not the same- The trailer is at about 15 degrees, and the boat is somewhere around 7 (if you're lucky). When you pull the boat out of the water, the trailer and the boat level out, the keel makes contact with the lower platform, and the boat rocks back and pulls away from the winch/cradle assembly on the trailer by anywhere from 2 to 10 inches. THIS IS NORMAL!. There are a few ways of moving the boat forward into the cradle, and most of us who are willing to post a method believe ours is the best; You can search on any of the following in the archives. The popular choices are: -- Soap on the bunks, and winch like Hell. Personally, I think this puts undue stress on the bow eye, and you risk pulling out through the fiberglass. -- The "MacGregor Stomp" (My preferred method, when I owned an H23.) Search for it in the archives, you'll get the method in detail. -- Back the boat into a solid object until it moves forward on the trailer (NOT recommended by anyone, but one owner claims success). -- Pull the boat, put tension on the winch, float it again, and pull it again. Repeat until boat is where you want it on the trailer. (I did this until I discovered the MacGregor Stomp.) There are a few other methods, but these are the ones that immediately jump to mind. I've tried all of these except backing the boat into a solid object. One last item; There's a roller on the trailer that will not be in contact with your boat when it sits level on the trailer. 'Tis normal- The roller is there to help the nose of the boat ride up to the cradle when you are putting the boat on the trailer at the ramp, and to help the boat roll off the trailer when you launch it. If it works where it is, don't get any urges to move it... Also, check back here often! This site has a double metric ton of info about the H23- the archive articles on the H23 alone will keep you occupied for hours, and it's all good info. I learned more about my H23 here than from anywhere else, and the folks here genuinely want to help you have a good time with your boat- Sailing it, repairing it, modifying it, or whatever else. Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum! --Jon Bastien H25 'Adagio' (A Former H23 owner)
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Jon Bastien
Some notes for Ray...
Ray, You really should try the MacGregor stomp! It'll put your mind at ease by getting rid of that little 2" gap. You'll be hesitant to try it at first (fear of damaging car or boat), but after you think about it, it makes perfect sense as a safety check- It's exactly what would happen if you had to execute a panic stop. If you don't trust it at 5 MPH, you CERTAINLY couldn't trust it at 55... The advice you give regarding floating the boat twice is great for water ballasted boats; Unfortunately, The H23 is a shoal draft wing keel job- A little harder to settle onto a trailer as it sits a little higher off the road. There isn't really any way to float the boat higher after draining the ballast (since there's no ballast to drain). *Sigh*... The joys of owning a trailerable sailboat! --Jon
Ray, You really should try the MacGregor stomp! It'll put your mind at ease by getting rid of that little 2" gap. You'll be hesitant to try it at first (fear of damaging car or boat), but after you think about it, it makes perfect sense as a safety check- It's exactly what would happen if you had to execute a panic stop. If you don't trust it at 5 MPH, you CERTAINLY couldn't trust it at 55... The advice you give regarding floating the boat twice is great for water ballasted boats; Unfortunately, The H23 is a shoal draft wing keel job- A little harder to settle onto a trailer as it sits a little higher off the road. There isn't really any way to float the boat higher after draining the ballast (since there's no ballast to drain). *Sigh*... The joys of owning a trailerable sailboat! --Jon
D
Dave Nelson
Thanks
I appreciate the rapid response. I've towed lots of boats but never one that floated free of the rollers and bridle. You're right, it seemed to trail nicely. Just pressure washed her and now I get to investigate some bottom/blister/rust spots on the keel. Happy Holidays, y'all.
I appreciate the rapid response. I've towed lots of boats but never one that floated free of the rollers and bridle. You're right, it seemed to trail nicely. Just pressure washed her and now I get to investigate some bottom/blister/rust spots on the keel. Happy Holidays, y'all.
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