My wife and I are new owners of a MacGregor 26D (1988) and are also members of the local MacGregor-Venture Group. We have enjoyed our boat immensely, but we encountered a problem yesterday with our trailer winch. Please let me outline what happened... We were sailing out of our usual harbour and upon return from a weekend of sailing, which was terrific I might add, our trailer winch was unable to pull our boat into place. The water levels were down from previous times, but a significant amount of trailer was still underwater. I was only able to pull the boat about half-way, when the winch began to slip and actually wore down a few of the teeth of the winch. (yuck !!!) Since I am now in the position of having to purchase a new winch, I was wondering if I could pose a few questions to obtain some insights from a veteran MacGregor/Venture Owner. 1. Was the trailer not submerged enough ?? Do you usually float the boat on to the trailer ?? If so, how do you avoid falling off the end of most concrete/metal ramps ??? That was what we faced yesterday as we could not go any deeper since the trailer wheels were at the absolute end of the submerged portion of the ramp. 2. What is the capacity of the winch on your trailer ?? I believe ours was the original (looks like the picture of one in the manual) and has a capacity of 1600 lbs or so. When you factor in the boat dry is about 1600 plus 1200 lbs of water ballast it seems apparent why at least the winch on my trailer slipped yesterday. As I stated, most of the trailer was under water but the winch just would not pull the boat to the end. 3. Do you think the answer is to buy a bigger winch (3000 lbs) and if so, in your opinion where is the best place to purchase ??? 4. Do you only launch at ramps that permit you to back up until the boat can float up to the winch and then be secured ??? If so, do you find yourself being limited in the ramps you are able to use ??? 5. I am towing our boat with an Ford Areostar mini-van - rear wheel drive, trailer package and positive traction e.g. We never get stuck anywhere in any weather and the vehicle seems to easily pull the boat out. However, some ramps are configured so that in order to get in deep, my exhaust pipe nearly goes under the surface of the water. Do you or have you ever considered attaching a pipe to the exhaust so that it will permit the motor to run while seeking the ideal depth for the boat ?? 6. In my humble opinion, the owners manual and other sites I have discovered on the WEB do not spend a lot of time talking about getting in or out of the water. Getting in is no sweat but as you can see getting out has become a challenge, at least right now for us. I usually back the empty trailer into the water until my rear van wheels are at the edge of the water. My wife drives the boat onto the trailer. I am in the water beside the trailer to assist and connect the winch rope. She drives the boat until it will no longer proceed by the power of the outboard motor. I connect the winch rope, pull it along about 5 - 6 feet until the bow is securely in the "V". Lock the winch. Drive the van until the trailer wheels are at the water's edge and with the ballast value open, we do not proceed any further until the boat stops draining. (angry boaters waiting in line notwithstanding) We usually drop the mast during this time to avoid any overhead wires. Sorry for the long story, but can you provide any comment on the procedure we are following ?? I would appreciate your comments as we are somewhat stymied and in dry-dock until we solve this latest concern. Thank you in advance for your assistance and I now look forward to your reply. Sincerely, Bob & Christine Maddocks Carp-eh D-yum --- M-26D 1988 p.s. Just in case if you were wondering how we got out of the water yesterday, out of the blue a gentleman offered to run a rope under our van connect it to the front of the boat and then to the trailer hitch of his vehicle which was in the front of our van. (confused yet ????) As he pulled away, I was able to rotate the winch and eventually able to get the boat into the V. Thank God it worked and that he came along at the very instant we needed help. After the ballast tank emptied and I changed my underwear, we were on our way home !!!!!!!!
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K
Kevin
Buy a new winch
Goto www.4wd.com or some other off road web site and look up Warn, SuperWinch, or Ramsy. You can pick up a 4500 pound winch for $400. It sounds like the procedure is fine to me. It's what I do with gas boats. You said "Do you or have you ever considered attaching a pipe to the exhaust so that it will permit the motor to run while seeking the ideal depth for the boat ??" Don't be silly. Your van is lets say a 6 cyl 4.0L engine. That means for every 2 revoutions your are displaceing 4.0L of exhaust. So at 1 rpm (not 1000) you displace 1.0L of exhaust/20 seconds. Now the van prob idles closer to 1000 rpm so every 20 seconds you displace 1000L. Or 50L a second. Do you really think any water is going to get up into the exhaust? Nope, I've had my exhaust under 1ft+ of water/mud. The only thing you want to worry about is if the water is higher (deeper) then the valves (exhaust) for the exhaust and the engine stalls. You will need to be real deep for that to happen. Hope this helps.
Goto www.4wd.com or some other off road web site and look up Warn, SuperWinch, or Ramsy. You can pick up a 4500 pound winch for $400. It sounds like the procedure is fine to me. It's what I do with gas boats. You said "Do you or have you ever considered attaching a pipe to the exhaust so that it will permit the motor to run while seeking the ideal depth for the boat ??" Don't be silly. Your van is lets say a 6 cyl 4.0L engine. That means for every 2 revoutions your are displaceing 4.0L of exhaust. So at 1 rpm (not 1000) you displace 1.0L of exhaust/20 seconds. Now the van prob idles closer to 1000 rpm so every 20 seconds you displace 1000L. Or 50L a second. Do you really think any water is going to get up into the exhaust? Nope, I've had my exhaust under 1ft+ of water/mud. The only thing you want to worry about is if the water is higher (deeper) then the valves (exhaust) for the exhaust and the engine stalls. You will need to be real deep for that to happen. Hope this helps.
B
Bob
trailer tongue extension
If your trailer was deep enough the winch should have little to do...the boat should float into place. I suggest you modify the trailer as I did. See it at community.webshots.com/web pages/webshots community/user pages/griffinaero2/ venture
If your trailer was deep enough the winch should have little to do...the boat should float into place. I suggest you modify the trailer as I did. See it at community.webshots.com/web pages/webshots community/user pages/griffinaero2/ venture
M
Mike
Some help for you...
My wife and I are new owners of a MacGregor 26D (1988) and are also members of the local MacGregor-Venture Group. We have enjoyed our boat immensely, but we encountered a problem yesterday with our trailer winch. Please let me outline what happened... >I have a 1989 26 D. We were sailing out of our usual harbour and upon return from a weekend of sailing, which was terrific I might add, our trailer winch was unable to pull our boat into place. The water levels were down from previous times, but a significant amount of trailer was still underwater. I was only able to pull the boat about half-way, when the winch began to slip and actually wore down a few of the teeth of the winch. (yuck !!!) > We sail at a lake where the water also fluctuates, the solution for us is to go to a ramp that is adequate for what we want to do. Out of 25 ramps on the lake maybe only 5 now are capable of safely launching and retreiving our boat. Ask around where people launch the big sale boats if possible and you might find a better place to launch from. Since I am now in the position of having to purchase a new winch, I was wondering if I could pose a few questions to obtain some insights from a veteran MacGregor/Venture Owner. 1. Was the trailer not submerged enough ?? Do you usually float the boat on to the trailer ?? If so, how do you avoid falling off the end of most concrete/metal ramps ??? That was what we faced yesterday as we could not go any deeper since the trailer wheels were at the absolute end of the submerged portion of the ramp. >In launching or retreiving the 26D, the boat should be floating off the trailer. Ideally, in retrieving, you should be able to pull the bow of the boat onto the notched rest at the end of the trailer closest to your car, with a bow line. If you can float the boat off the trailer in launching it, you will be able to float it to retrieve it. If you are going to fall off the ramp, either find a better ramp, get a 4x4 to tow with so you can get out, get ready to ask for help with a tow, see if there is a tractor service to launch your boat for a minimal fee. 2. What is the capacity of the winch on your trailer ?? I believe ours was the original (looks like the picture of one in the manual) and has a capacity of 1600 lbs or so. When you factor in the boat dry is about 1600 plus 1200 lbs of water ballast it seems apparent why at least the winch on my trailer slipped yesterday. As I stated, most of the trailer was under water but the winch just would not pull the boat to the end. > The winch wasn't made to pull the boat up a dry/unsubmerged trailer, so it is irrelevant to your problem. 3. Do you think the answer is to buy a bigger winch (3000 lbs) and if so, in your opinion where is the best place to purchase ??? > Definitly not. 4. Do you only launch at ramps that permit you to back up until the boat can float up to the winch and then be secured ??? If so, do you find yourself being limited in the ramps you are able to use ??? >Yes, it is a balance between preserving the life of the boat and trailer, and being able to launch at any ramp. 5. I am towing our boat with an Ford Areostar mini-van - rear wheel drive, trailer package and positive traction e.g. We never get stuck anywhere in any weather and the vehicle seems to easily pull the boat out. However, some ramps are configured so that in order to get in deep, my exhaust pipe nearly goes under the surface of the water. Do you or have you ever considered attaching a pipe to the exhaust so that it will permit the motor to run while seeking the ideal depth for the boat ?? > Don't turn off the motor and you are fine. I usually back the empty trailer into the water until my rear van wheels are at the edge of the water. My wife drives the boat onto the trailer. I am in the water beside the trailer to assist and connect the winch rope. She drives the boat until it will no longer proceed by the power of the outboard motor. I connect the winch rope, pull it along about 5 - 6 feet until the bow is securely in the "V". Lock the winch. Drive the van until the trailer wheels are at the water's edge and with the ballast value open, we do not proceed any further until the boat stops draining. (angry boaters waiting in line notwithstanding) We usually drop the mast during this time to avoid any overhead wires. > I would have a hard time not asking you to move your boat, you don't need to monopolize the ramp if you are in the right place. Bring the boat to the ramp, open the ballast valve. Pull the boat up the submerged trailer, lock the winch in place, snug it up and drive out with the water draining. Park out of the way and take the mast down. You are just asking for trouble both to your boat and yourselves if you keep doing what you are doing. Find a better ramp.
My wife and I are new owners of a MacGregor 26D (1988) and are also members of the local MacGregor-Venture Group. We have enjoyed our boat immensely, but we encountered a problem yesterday with our trailer winch. Please let me outline what happened... >I have a 1989 26 D. We were sailing out of our usual harbour and upon return from a weekend of sailing, which was terrific I might add, our trailer winch was unable to pull our boat into place. The water levels were down from previous times, but a significant amount of trailer was still underwater. I was only able to pull the boat about half-way, when the winch began to slip and actually wore down a few of the teeth of the winch. (yuck !!!) > We sail at a lake where the water also fluctuates, the solution for us is to go to a ramp that is adequate for what we want to do. Out of 25 ramps on the lake maybe only 5 now are capable of safely launching and retreiving our boat. Ask around where people launch the big sale boats if possible and you might find a better place to launch from. Since I am now in the position of having to purchase a new winch, I was wondering if I could pose a few questions to obtain some insights from a veteran MacGregor/Venture Owner. 1. Was the trailer not submerged enough ?? Do you usually float the boat on to the trailer ?? If so, how do you avoid falling off the end of most concrete/metal ramps ??? That was what we faced yesterday as we could not go any deeper since the trailer wheels were at the absolute end of the submerged portion of the ramp. >In launching or retreiving the 26D, the boat should be floating off the trailer. Ideally, in retrieving, you should be able to pull the bow of the boat onto the notched rest at the end of the trailer closest to your car, with a bow line. If you can float the boat off the trailer in launching it, you will be able to float it to retrieve it. If you are going to fall off the ramp, either find a better ramp, get a 4x4 to tow with so you can get out, get ready to ask for help with a tow, see if there is a tractor service to launch your boat for a minimal fee. 2. What is the capacity of the winch on your trailer ?? I believe ours was the original (looks like the picture of one in the manual) and has a capacity of 1600 lbs or so. When you factor in the boat dry is about 1600 plus 1200 lbs of water ballast it seems apparent why at least the winch on my trailer slipped yesterday. As I stated, most of the trailer was under water but the winch just would not pull the boat to the end. > The winch wasn't made to pull the boat up a dry/unsubmerged trailer, so it is irrelevant to your problem. 3. Do you think the answer is to buy a bigger winch (3000 lbs) and if so, in your opinion where is the best place to purchase ??? > Definitly not. 4. Do you only launch at ramps that permit you to back up until the boat can float up to the winch and then be secured ??? If so, do you find yourself being limited in the ramps you are able to use ??? >Yes, it is a balance between preserving the life of the boat and trailer, and being able to launch at any ramp. 5. I am towing our boat with an Ford Areostar mini-van - rear wheel drive, trailer package and positive traction e.g. We never get stuck anywhere in any weather and the vehicle seems to easily pull the boat out. However, some ramps are configured so that in order to get in deep, my exhaust pipe nearly goes under the surface of the water. Do you or have you ever considered attaching a pipe to the exhaust so that it will permit the motor to run while seeking the ideal depth for the boat ?? > Don't turn off the motor and you are fine. I usually back the empty trailer into the water until my rear van wheels are at the edge of the water. My wife drives the boat onto the trailer. I am in the water beside the trailer to assist and connect the winch rope. She drives the boat until it will no longer proceed by the power of the outboard motor. I connect the winch rope, pull it along about 5 - 6 feet until the bow is securely in the "V". Lock the winch. Drive the van until the trailer wheels are at the water's edge and with the ballast value open, we do not proceed any further until the boat stops draining. (angry boaters waiting in line notwithstanding) We usually drop the mast during this time to avoid any overhead wires. > I would have a hard time not asking you to move your boat, you don't need to monopolize the ramp if you are in the right place. Bring the boat to the ramp, open the ballast valve. Pull the boat up the submerged trailer, lock the winch in place, snug it up and drive out with the water draining. Park out of the way and take the mast down. You are just asking for trouble both to your boat and yourselves if you keep doing what you are doing. Find a better ramp.
J
Jean Gosse
Shallow water retrieval
Some of our lakes go down in the fall. All of our tidal ramps are variable, some go out flat under water. We have to have the fenders of the trailer under water to launch or retrieve our Mac 26D. Empty, the boat comes off easily. Full tanks put it down 6" or - and it is hard on the boat, winch, trailer, temper etc. to try to haul out by brute force. Solution. A small electric pump mounted behind the step of the companionway. An intake pipe right down into the ballast tank. a long hose from the exit of the pump across the cockpit and into the drain. Appropriate electric hookup. If you are motoring home in a calm, turn the pump on about 20 minutes from the ramp. If you are sailing, get the boat moored/beached/whatever, and spend 20 minutes or so getting things squared away while the pump lightens ship. It floats onto the trailer easily, no strain on equipment. People don't hate you for swamping the ramp. You are not blocking traffic. Also it can be easier to unload gear while the boat is in the water at a dock and not on the trailer. Don't drain tank while sailing. Probably won't bother the boat, but it will be so light and tippy no one aboard will like it.
Some of our lakes go down in the fall. All of our tidal ramps are variable, some go out flat under water. We have to have the fenders of the trailer under water to launch or retrieve our Mac 26D. Empty, the boat comes off easily. Full tanks put it down 6" or - and it is hard on the boat, winch, trailer, temper etc. to try to haul out by brute force. Solution. A small electric pump mounted behind the step of the companionway. An intake pipe right down into the ballast tank. a long hose from the exit of the pump across the cockpit and into the drain. Appropriate electric hookup. If you are motoring home in a calm, turn the pump on about 20 minutes from the ramp. If you are sailing, get the boat moored/beached/whatever, and spend 20 minutes or so getting things squared away while the pump lightens ship. It floats onto the trailer easily, no strain on equipment. People don't hate you for swamping the ramp. You are not blocking traffic. Also it can be easier to unload gear while the boat is in the water at a dock and not on the trailer. Don't drain tank while sailing. Probably won't bother the boat, but it will be so light and tippy no one aboard will like it.
C
Carlos
Don't blame the winch
Bob, some ramps are just too short or steep and simply not usable at low tide. The boat should float at least 2/3 of the way over the trailer. If not, you are not only adding too much stress to the winch, but also to the boat bow hook. Try to time your return to dock so you stay away from low tide, and empty your water ballast tank before your get there by motoring fast for the last five minutes with the valves open. No crew aboard when you pull the boat up either. If you were ahead of me at the dock, I would be angry too. No need to transform your van into a submarine by adding a pipe to your exhaust. Just fabricate a two/three feet long sturdy hitch extension, to connect ONLY when you launch the boat and keep the car out of the water. Never, ever use it when you tow the boat on the road.
Bob, some ramps are just too short or steep and simply not usable at low tide. The boat should float at least 2/3 of the way over the trailer. If not, you are not only adding too much stress to the winch, but also to the boat bow hook. Try to time your return to dock so you stay away from low tide, and empty your water ballast tank before your get there by motoring fast for the last five minutes with the valves open. No crew aboard when you pull the boat up either. If you were ahead of me at the dock, I would be angry too. No need to transform your van into a submarine by adding a pipe to your exhaust. Just fabricate a two/three feet long sturdy hitch extension, to connect ONLY when you launch the boat and keep the car out of the water. Never, ever use it when you tow the boat on the road.
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