My Cat 22 has been in the water for about 5 months, I jacked up the empty trailer recently and found that the wheels were frozen at least to hand turning. The bearings were greased. The breaks are long gone. My instincts say to replace the bearings even if I can get the wheels to turn easily. Does anyone have suggestions or experience with this. And what size bearing on a 79 model stock trailer, and is this a do it yourself job or one a shop should do?
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Take the wheels off and check inside.....
....you can't be too cautious with that age trailer, unless you know it's been meticulously maintained! Last year I bought a '72 Cat on a '71 trailer. I figured the trailer needed some "checking out" before using it on the road (the boat and trailer are kept at the lake) - but am not "mechanically inclined" and was an idiot and put it off (hey, if it ain't broke - why fix it
. The wheels turned fine, and there was some grease, but the other month when I was backing it up to work on the boat - a wheel fell off the trailer! All we could say was "Thank God this didn't happen on the ramp!" Well, it looks like an easy enough job for someone "mechanically inclined" - (easy for me to say- I just watched) but guaranteed much easier BEFORE anything happens and breaks and needs to be chiseled off - especially if on a ramp at a 15% incline.... And just think how dangerous it would be if a wheel fell off on a highway! I've no clue on bearing sizes - but if you don't have "bearing buddies" to keep the grease in - it's suggested. Good luck. Lisa
....you can't be too cautious with that age trailer, unless you know it's been meticulously maintained! Last year I bought a '72 Cat on a '71 trailer. I figured the trailer needed some "checking out" before using it on the road (the boat and trailer are kept at the lake) - but am not "mechanically inclined" and was an idiot and put it off (hey, if it ain't broke - why fix it
. The wheels turned fine, and there was some grease, but the other month when I was backing it up to work on the boat - a wheel fell off the trailer! All we could say was "Thank God this didn't happen on the ramp!" Well, it looks like an easy enough job for someone "mechanically inclined" - (easy for me to say- I just watched) but guaranteed much easier BEFORE anything happens and breaks and needs to be chiseled off - especially if on a ramp at a 15% incline.... And just think how dangerous it would be if a wheel fell off on a highway! I've no clue on bearing sizes - but if you don't have "bearing buddies" to keep the grease in - it's suggested. Good luck. Lisasqueak
most bearings are a standard size and will have a designation number on them. take them to an auto parts store or a bearing supply shop for replacement. ask about the torque specifications for the nuts that hold them on, it is often less than 11 ft.pounds. john
most bearings are a standard size and will have a designation number on them. take them to an auto parts store or a bearing supply shop for replacement. ask about the torque specifications for the nuts that hold them on, it is often less than 11 ft.pounds. john
bearings
Wal-Mart caries trailer bearings, as do most auto parts stores. If the old ones are really frozen on to the axel, you may have to burn them off. You'll need an oxy-acetylene torch for this. I know, I had to do it on the trailer for my Com-pac 16. Fortunately, the new bearings and related aprts are not hard to find, and not expensive. For the frame, I would ghet a heavy (8 lb.) hammer and bang the structural parts to see that they are not compeletely rusted out.
Wal-Mart caries trailer bearings, as do most auto parts stores. If the old ones are really frozen on to the axel, you may have to burn them off. You'll need an oxy-acetylene torch for this. I know, I had to do it on the trailer for my Com-pac 16. Fortunately, the new bearings and related aprts are not hard to find, and not expensive. For the frame, I would ghet a heavy (8 lb.) hammer and bang the structural parts to see that they are not compeletely rusted out.
Did your bearings have Bearing Buddies?
Dan, Did your bearings have Bearing Buddies? I was wondering, because, I just pump grease into mine twice a year and have never done anything to the bearings other than that. Has anyone ever had bearings fail with Bearing Buddies that were kept full of grease? Thanks, Aldo
Dan, Did your bearings have Bearing Buddies? I was wondering, because, I just pump grease into mine twice a year and have never done anything to the bearings other than that. Has anyone ever had bearings fail with Bearing Buddies that were kept full of grease? Thanks, Aldo
fixing it right
When you have your bearings off tap and put in zerk (greese)fittings and you will be able to grease your bearings easily from then on. Additionally use water proof grease when lubricating the bearings...Good luck
When you have your bearings off tap and put in zerk (greese)fittings and you will be able to grease your bearings easily from then on. Additionally use water proof grease when lubricating the bearings...Good luck
Hot Wheels
Bearing Buddies plus waterproof grease have worked well for me. After driving a few miles, its good to stop and check for heat in the wheels. Careful you touch the metal part of the wheel near the axle quickly and gently first so not to burn yourself if something is amiss. If a wheel is hot (compared to other wheels on your trailer or car), that's an indication that its time to check and probably replace some parts.
Bearing Buddies plus waterproof grease have worked well for me. After driving a few miles, its good to stop and check for heat in the wheels. Careful you touch the metal part of the wheel near the axle quickly and gently first so not to burn yourself if something is amiss. If a wheel is hot (compared to other wheels on your trailer or car), that's an indication that its time to check and probably replace some parts.
check spindles too
up front i probably over do it but i trail all over and as far as 1200 miles one way. so here goes. i pack the bearings 2-3 x a year . i have had trouble with bearing buddies in that they are thrown off the trailer going down the high way . so i just use dust caps. i replace the bearing seal each time i pack bearings and replace the bearings completely each year. at $16 i figure it is cheap insurance. when the bearings come out i check the race ( the tapered part in the hub) look for stains or pitting from sitting in one spot . if its there them beat them out and put in the new ones that come with the kit. check the spindle of the axle. if it is rusted or pitted it doesnt do much good to just replace the bearings as the friction and corrosion will build up heat there. you may get the spindles polished up a bit but if it is too bad replace the axle. it shouldnt run more than $150-200 for the size you are looking at. i use marine grease from walmart nothing special as i figure that the frequent changes are not going to stress the limits of the grease properties. i carry a spare hub that is preloaded with grease and all extra axle parts along with extra bearing kits and seals. sometimes even if you get towed in parts are hard to come by. new tires come every two years and you have to ASK to have them balanced or the tire shop wont do it. they assume it doesnt need it . i asked why and they gave me that look and said "well i guess it does make sence" . the way i look at it the wheel is going down the road at 60 mph and a shimmy or bad balance puts more wear on the hub , bearing and rig . i used to dunk in salt water but find that the peace of mind for the tow home is worth the $100 fee for a lift to pick me up and put in and out of the water. id hate to have a bearing fail after two weeks of vacation and salt corroding the bearings just before a long haul home. yes this is overkill but after a breakdown with a more normal and at the time decent maintainance schedule that cost me several days waiting on parts and a tire ....well we all have a comfort level . good luck and yes you can do the work yourself it is really not that hard. think of it as a zen kind of thing!
up front i probably over do it but i trail all over and as far as 1200 miles one way. so here goes. i pack the bearings 2-3 x a year . i have had trouble with bearing buddies in that they are thrown off the trailer going down the high way . so i just use dust caps. i replace the bearing seal each time i pack bearings and replace the bearings completely each year. at $16 i figure it is cheap insurance. when the bearings come out i check the race ( the tapered part in the hub) look for stains or pitting from sitting in one spot . if its there them beat them out and put in the new ones that come with the kit. check the spindle of the axle. if it is rusted or pitted it doesnt do much good to just replace the bearings as the friction and corrosion will build up heat there. you may get the spindles polished up a bit but if it is too bad replace the axle. it shouldnt run more than $150-200 for the size you are looking at. i use marine grease from walmart nothing special as i figure that the frequent changes are not going to stress the limits of the grease properties. i carry a spare hub that is preloaded with grease and all extra axle parts along with extra bearing kits and seals. sometimes even if you get towed in parts are hard to come by. new tires come every two years and you have to ASK to have them balanced or the tire shop wont do it. they assume it doesnt need it . i asked why and they gave me that look and said "well i guess it does make sence" . the way i look at it the wheel is going down the road at 60 mph and a shimmy or bad balance puts more wear on the hub , bearing and rig . i used to dunk in salt water but find that the peace of mind for the tow home is worth the $100 fee for a lift to pick me up and put in and out of the water. id hate to have a bearing fail after two weeks of vacation and salt corroding the bearings just before a long haul home. yes this is overkill but after a breakdown with a more normal and at the time decent maintainance schedule that cost me several days waiting on parts and a tire ....well we all have a comfort level . good luck and yes you can do the work yourself it is really not that hard. think of it as a zen kind of thing!
First things first
Well I know you have so much more information here then you really need right? so pardon me if I just jump right in and say. It might be that it's the brakes are seized to the drum, rusted probably. The bearings themselves may very well be ok. I guess it all depends on whether this trailer has seen salt or fresh water and for how long in between inspections? Adjusting the brakes down or getting them to release is the first order of business, then pull the drums and check the rest. It probably is not as bad as you think. Hope this helps. I'm not sure who made your trailer but Trail-Rite in Santa Anna Calif made the one my new Catalina MarkII is sitting on. If you want I can get the phone number and maybe they can send you a manual for your brake set up. Dave LaPere
Well I know you have so much more information here then you really need right? so pardon me if I just jump right in and say. It might be that it's the brakes are seized to the drum, rusted probably. The bearings themselves may very well be ok. I guess it all depends on whether this trailer has seen salt or fresh water and for how long in between inspections? Adjusting the brakes down or getting them to release is the first order of business, then pull the drums and check the rest. It probably is not as bad as you think. Hope this helps. I'm not sure who made your trailer but Trail-Rite in Santa Anna Calif made the one my new Catalina MarkII is sitting on. If you want I can get the phone number and maybe they can send you a manual for your brake set up. Dave LaPere
re: first things first
I thought about the breaks too. That would be a simple solution. The trailer is the original but the breaks have not operated in years, I have owned it for 1 year. I have to move the trailer to work on it, I hope pulling it will unstick it. It was greased with bearing buddies. But the trailer is old and rusty so it can be anything.
I thought about the breaks too. That would be a simple solution. The trailer is the original but the breaks have not operated in years, I have owned it for 1 year. I have to move the trailer to work on it, I hope pulling it will unstick it. It was greased with bearing buddies. But the trailer is old and rusty so it can be anything.
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