I have a recently purchased Catalina 18 on a trailer. Last time I launched, I discovered the roller was nearly falling apart. We did a quick fix to be able to get the boat back on the trailer. Now the next time I launch, I have to replace the roller. I don't know much about this, and the company (Trail Rite) that manufactured the trailer is out of business. If anyone can make any recommendations regarding size, specs, materials for a new roller, or if anyone can offer any tips on installation, I would be grateful.
Trailer roller advice!
- Thread starter Foolsheart
- Start date
I had a roller fall off. My trailer is from 1973 and made by a company I can only assume is out of business. I grabbed a couple of measurements and found easternmarine.com. Not only were they reasonable, they really knew their stuff. Turns out I had an odd size roller but nevertheless they knew exactly what I needed after a 30 second conversation
You can lift the boat up a couple of inches with an automotive jack and some wood but if you know you're going to be launching soon I'll agree with you that it's better to just wait
You can lift the boat up a couple of inches with an automotive jack and some wood but if you know you're going to be launching soon I'll agree with you that it's better to just wait
To get the boat off the roller you just need a tongue jack on the trailer, a stack of wood, and cinderblocks.
Raise the tongue jack all the way up. Once it’s up, stack your cinderblocks on either side of the boat by the roller, put the wood across both stacks and under the bow. Make sure the wood is higher than the roller. Lower the tongue jack so that the bow of the boat is supported by the wood and is off the roller. Swap rollers, raise the tongue jack back up, remove the wood, and lower the boat back to level.
I’ve done this before with a Rhodes 19 and O’Day Daysailer and it worked perfectly. With the Rhodes I actually took the trailer out from under the boat with this same method except you lower the tongue jack all the way down first, put the wood cross beam under the stern and then raise the bow up.
Raise the tongue jack all the way up. Once it’s up, stack your cinderblocks on either side of the boat by the roller, put the wood across both stacks and under the bow. Make sure the wood is higher than the roller. Lower the tongue jack so that the bow of the boat is supported by the wood and is off the roller. Swap rollers, raise the tongue jack back up, remove the wood, and lower the boat back to level.
I’ve done this before with a Rhodes 19 and O’Day Daysailer and it worked perfectly. With the Rhodes I actually took the trailer out from under the boat with this same method except you lower the tongue jack all the way down first, put the wood cross beam under the stern and then raise the bow up.
You can also try Etrailer. I've had luck matching up rollers and retaining pins there.
www.etrailer.com
Roller and Bunk Parts Boat Trailer Parts | etrailer.com
Lowest roller and bunk parts price guaranteed. Same day shipping, thousands of boat trailer parts reviews. Best boat trailer parts from CE Smith, Dutt
www.etrailer.com
Trailer rollers are commodity/consumable items, and are not generally specific to any given trailer. You can get what you need here: Boat Trailer Keel Rollers and Bump Pads I would recommend the orange polyurethane rollers for the longest service life. Black rubber rollers will eventually leave marks on the boat, and the cream colored thermal plastic ones will break down in the sun faster. But the polyurethane rollers are more expensive. I have launched my boat on low traffic days, left her tied to the dock, then replaced all the rollers and hauled her back out again (15' dry-sailed daysailer.) Nowadays, my 192 lives in her slip, and I do the trailer work at home. Huh, I MUST remember that I need to replace the wiring harness BEFORE haulout weekend! And I'm probably due for new tires, too...