I have an H240 with a Hunter trailer. The trailer is single axle with surge brakes. This year when I pulled the boat out I ripped the cable that is linked to the brake system. I did this when I extended the tounge and forgot unhook the cable from the truck. How does this cable work and how can I reconnect it. I trailered home without it. I thought the purpose was to engage the brakes, however they weren't locked up and it did not seem to effect my 15 mile trip home.
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Ray Bowles
Sean, The cable you ripped out, was it a
hydraulic hose or an electrical wire/or wires bundle? The brake hydraulic line runs from the trailer hydraulic master cylinder to the brake system on the axle. The brake hose has a loop in it that is usually tied up with some slip lock plastic fasteners. If you tore the brake system fluid line you will have to replace the entire hose. This can be bought at any good automotive parts store and in all probability have to be made up. (Custom made) This is NOT an expensive item even with the custom parts. I'd really bet it will be less that $50. You will need to remove the entire assembly. The hose with all fittings attached is needed for a new duplicate to be fabricated. After remounting the system will need to be bled to remove ALL AIR. The brakes should be adjusted also at this time. If the torn part is a wire then this is a different game. If you are not comfortable doing this job then any good brake shop can do it for you. Shop around for the best price. Send me a note if I can help further. Ray S/V Speedy
hydraulic hose or an electrical wire/or wires bundle? The brake hydraulic line runs from the trailer hydraulic master cylinder to the brake system on the axle. The brake hose has a loop in it that is usually tied up with some slip lock plastic fasteners. If you tore the brake system fluid line you will have to replace the entire hose. This can be bought at any good automotive parts store and in all probability have to be made up. (Custom made) This is NOT an expensive item even with the custom parts. I'd really bet it will be less that $50. You will need to remove the entire assembly. The hose with all fittings attached is needed for a new duplicate to be fabricated. After remounting the system will need to be bled to remove ALL AIR. The brakes should be adjusted also at this time. If the torn part is a wire then this is a different game. If you are not comfortable doing this job then any good brake shop can do it for you. Shop around for the best price. Send me a note if I can help further. Ray S/V Speedy
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Sean Coerse
Ray
It's not a hydrolic hose. And it's not the wiring for the lights ect. It is a cable that comes out of the top of the tounge and has an s hook that attaches to the tow vehicle. It is seperate from the two safety chains. Thanks for the help.
It's not a hydrolic hose. And it's not the wiring for the lights ect. It is a cable that comes out of the top of the tounge and has an s hook that attaches to the tow vehicle. It is seperate from the two safety chains. Thanks for the help.
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Mark Kissel
Cable
Hi Sean, The "breakaway" cable is designed to apply the brakes when it is pulled. If yours was ripped out, it probably came loose from its attachment at the master cylinder. I would suggest you contact the manufacturer for a replacement and advice on installation. Click the link below for their website. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
Hi Sean, The "breakaway" cable is designed to apply the brakes when it is pulled. If yours was ripped out, it probably came loose from its attachment at the master cylinder. I would suggest you contact the manufacturer for a replacement and advice on installation. Click the link below for their website. Mark Kissel Kittiwake/98H240
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Jay
cable
Yes, the cable is an actuating device which is supposed to apply the brakes if it gets yanked on because you came unhitched. We just replaced our entire braking system this summer, including a new Atwood head/actuator. Having looked at what a 10 year old set of brakes looks like inside, and having talked to the guy who did the state inspection, I'd say that the reason the loss of your cable didn't affect your brakes is almost certainly that your brakes are totally inoperative. The inspector said that he has virtually never had a set of surge brakes work when he inspected them, unless the trailor was brand new. This is all a bit depressing, but here's how you find out for sure: first, jack up one wheel of your trailor (w or w/o boat on it). Clamp your hitch extender (the thing with the ball on it which you can remove from your vehicle) into the trailor head, and use it to pump the brake mechanism while someone else tries to rotate the wheel which is now off the ground. I'll bet you it does nothing. We had to get our trailer inspected to get a license, so this test led us to replace the actuator head, all brake line, and we replaced the old drum brakes with "Tie-down" brand stainless disc brakes. The inspector said that hydraulic fluid soaks up water like crazy if there is a leak anywhere, and once it does so, the inside of your system starts to rust. Anyway, it was 2 days of work, but now our brakes are functional. Good luck with yours. Jay
Yes, the cable is an actuating device which is supposed to apply the brakes if it gets yanked on because you came unhitched. We just replaced our entire braking system this summer, including a new Atwood head/actuator. Having looked at what a 10 year old set of brakes looks like inside, and having talked to the guy who did the state inspection, I'd say that the reason the loss of your cable didn't affect your brakes is almost certainly that your brakes are totally inoperative. The inspector said that he has virtually never had a set of surge brakes work when he inspected them, unless the trailor was brand new. This is all a bit depressing, but here's how you find out for sure: first, jack up one wheel of your trailor (w or w/o boat on it). Clamp your hitch extender (the thing with the ball on it which you can remove from your vehicle) into the trailor head, and use it to pump the brake mechanism while someone else tries to rotate the wheel which is now off the ground. I'll bet you it does nothing. We had to get our trailer inspected to get a license, so this test led us to replace the actuator head, all brake line, and we replaced the old drum brakes with "Tie-down" brand stainless disc brakes. The inspector said that hydraulic fluid soaks up water like crazy if there is a leak anywhere, and once it does so, the inside of your system starts to rust. Anyway, it was 2 days of work, but now our brakes are functional. Good luck with yours. Jay
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T J Furstenau
Jay - Approx Cost?
Jay - Approx costs on the repairs you just outlined? I've always had second thoughts about how well (if at all) the surge brakes are working on my trailer. Although my tow vehicle does fine stopping the whole package, I feel the truck is take the brunt of the wear. I also prefer working on disks, so if I could replace my drums without costing an arm and a leg, I'd consider doing it. T J
Jay - Approx costs on the repairs you just outlined? I've always had second thoughts about how well (if at all) the surge brakes are working on my trailer. Although my tow vehicle does fine stopping the whole package, I feel the truck is take the brunt of the wear. I also prefer working on disks, so if I could replace my drums without costing an arm and a leg, I'd consider doing it. T J
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Jay
Cost of braking system replacement
TJ, The stainless disk brakes we bought look to be the exact same ones I see in the BoatUS catalog (Tie-down), where they are listed at $133 per side. The Atwood head we bought (they have a web site) was something like 100-120. We bought a large coil of metal brake line from a local trailer parts store, and also bought a T, and 3 fittings with clamps to attach to 3 flexible brake lines. This is one flexible to go from the brake to the axle on each side, and one to go from the solid line under the tongue (I ran the solid line where it couldn't get stepped on when you want to walk on the tongue) up to the Atwood head which holds the master cylinder. You need to get the head which is appropriate for disk brakes, as opposed to drum. There is supposed to be some way to modify the drum brake head by puncturing some seal with an ice pick, but this sounded a bit vague to me, and we were pretty sure the master cylinder was shot anyway. You might be able to buy just the master cylinder, since the majority of the head is just support structure. We didn't keep track, but I'd put the whole cost at less than $500. Trak auto will "rent" you a flaring tool for the solid brake line for free. It took us 2 8-hour days of working under a shade tree, but it was actually kind of pleasant. Better than working on your car when you have to have it to go to work yesterday. I would have balked more at the cost, but once we had the temp. tags, we had to get the trailer reinspected within a week, so we really had no choice. Worried a bit about why the wheel bearings would just happen to fit the axles. But they did, so... Anyway, good luck if you decide to give it a go. It was really easier than it sounds. Jay
TJ, The stainless disk brakes we bought look to be the exact same ones I see in the BoatUS catalog (Tie-down), where they are listed at $133 per side. The Atwood head we bought (they have a web site) was something like 100-120. We bought a large coil of metal brake line from a local trailer parts store, and also bought a T, and 3 fittings with clamps to attach to 3 flexible brake lines. This is one flexible to go from the brake to the axle on each side, and one to go from the solid line under the tongue (I ran the solid line where it couldn't get stepped on when you want to walk on the tongue) up to the Atwood head which holds the master cylinder. You need to get the head which is appropriate for disk brakes, as opposed to drum. There is supposed to be some way to modify the drum brake head by puncturing some seal with an ice pick, but this sounded a bit vague to me, and we were pretty sure the master cylinder was shot anyway. You might be able to buy just the master cylinder, since the majority of the head is just support structure. We didn't keep track, but I'd put the whole cost at less than $500. Trak auto will "rent" you a flaring tool for the solid brake line for free. It took us 2 8-hour days of working under a shade tree, but it was actually kind of pleasant. Better than working on your car when you have to have it to go to work yesterday. I would have balked more at the cost, but once we had the temp. tags, we had to get the trailer reinspected within a week, so we really had no choice. Worried a bit about why the wheel bearings would just happen to fit the axles. But they did, so... Anyway, good luck if you decide to give it a go. It was really easier than it sounds. Jay
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BART FORD
Brake cable
Are you referring to the cable on top of the trailer coupler that activates the brakes should the trailer jump off the ball. Mine broke and I replaced with logging chain. If you broke the hydraulic brake line, that is another story but don't panic, you can repair it. Get a replacement from a car parts place. Connect the hoses. Fill the brake reservior with brake fliud. The lever on top of the coupler is a pump handle. Get a piece of pipe that will fit over it, a friend to help you bleed the line. Do the shortest one first, then do the other one, keeping the tank full. GOOD LUCK.
Are you referring to the cable on top of the trailer coupler that activates the brakes should the trailer jump off the ball. Mine broke and I replaced with logging chain. If you broke the hydraulic brake line, that is another story but don't panic, you can repair it. Get a replacement from a car parts place. Connect the hoses. Fill the brake reservior with brake fliud. The lever on top of the coupler is a pump handle. Get a piece of pipe that will fit over it, a friend to help you bleed the line. Do the shortest one first, then do the other one, keeping the tank full. GOOD LUCK.
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