Trailer Lights

[jwilcoxon78]

So we've had our H260 now for 4 years and love the boat. I absolutely hate the trailer. I spend more time working on it than the boat. I suppose that is a good thing though, but still frustrating.

The issue is the trailer lights. They always seem to be inoperative. This year, started to work on them again and found that the ground pin on the truck side of things was slightly off such that it was not making contact when it was connected. I tweaked it a little and she worked like a champ all the way to the lake the next day.

Now, upon leaving the lake for the day, they stopped working. My question now is, and bad on me for not properly using the trailer, does any one else submerge the trailer while A) the plug is still connected and B) launch without using the tongue extension?

I redid my brakes such that I can't use the extension, plan on correcting that though, so I have to back the truck in far enough that the connector is submerged.

 

[jeepbluetj]

On most boat trailers, you need to disconnect the lights before submerging the trailer. otherwise you'll pop lots of bulbs. The easy solution for that is submersible LED trailer lights.

 

[jwilcoxon78]

On most boat trailers, you need to disconnect the lights before submerging the trailer. otherwise you'll pop lots of bulbs. The easy solution for that is submersible LED trailer lights.

Thanks jeepbluetj and I suppose I do need to get into that habit. I'll check the bulbs when I get home. Didn't want to fool with it the other night.

 

[justsomeguy]

The LED upgrade is a piece of cake, too.

 

[walt]

easy solution for that is submersible LED trailer lights

I have these (submersible LED trailer lights).. never worry about disconnecting anything when launching and no problems.

Also, using the trailer frame for ground seems to always cause some sort of problem so just use a wire for the ground.. way more reliable.

 

[Benny17441]

Start with the towing vehicle plug. Get a rather inexpensive in line trailer lights tester and make sure the plug is set-up correctly and all the connectors are properly working. If there is a fault at the vehicle repair it. This will help isolate that any further fault will be on the trailer's side. If your wiring and lights are old I would ditch them and get a new set preferably submergible LEDs. One aid I have used is to install PVC trailer guide poles and install the lights on the poles above the boat's waterline so this way the lights never get submerged. At least once a month even if you are not going anywhere connect the lights to test them as this will reduce the likelihood of a last minute surprise when you are ready to roll.

 

[PaulK]

The problem with trailer lights is that they get wet. Often in salt water. The solution is to put a lightboard on the transom of the boat after it's on the trailer and not have lights on the trailer at all. Works for me with my 505 dinghy, should work for others too.

 

[sesmith]

I got sick of fixing mine every time I wanted to use it and replaced the lights with LED lights and replaced the wiring last year. Nice upgrade. Very glad I did it. The LED's are much brighter, as well.

 

[Brian S]

Most trailer systems rely on the trailer itself as the ground for the system. Things work much better if you run a dedicated wire to each light and the plug for the ground. Also, some people have put those "goal post" trailer guides on their trailer, and mounted the lights on there, where they stay out of the water.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

As a former dealer always suggested disconnecting regardless what light you do but many good suggestions here. One thing is to also look at the fuse under the dashboard to make sure it did not blow either. Seen that a time or two

 

[jwilcoxon78]

Thanks CD. The new plug that I installed on the trailer has the "tester" on it as well so I know I'm getting power to the plug. I may step out today to take a closer look at everything if it every stops raining.

 

[Captn Scotty]

I got sick and tired of fixing trailer lights years ago. I've been using magnetic ones. One set works on all my trailers, they cost about $35.00 and have worked flawlessly for fifteen years! You just chuck them in the box of the truck before you back down the ramp.

 

[watercolors II]

I have found that when rewiring a trailer, twisting the wire connections over time will corrode and lose contact. Always solder each connection and run a separate ground wire for each light.

 

[StargazerP303]

I got sick and tired of fixing trailer lights years ago. I've been using magnetic ones. One set works on all my trailers, they cost about $35.00 and have worked flawlessly for fifteen years! You just chuck them in the box of the truck before you back down the ramp.View attachment 137191

Listen to SCOTTY! He's in the right track.. Take them OFF and down you go! Also when you need lights to tow anything.. you have them. You also have lights even for road emergency's, such changing tires on the side of road when your trailer BLOWs one. I too have used them for my P18 and even the led's will have problems. Any bulb's or wire that is in any water will degrade it in short time.

 

[jeepbluetj]

High quality heat shrink terminals are better than solder. (Ask Maine Sail)

Any boat trailer I've seen that has good quality submersible LEDs, separate ground wires, and connected properly have been problem free afterwards. And you don't need to faff about with sticking them on or off. Not saying it won't work, but one less thing to do during launch is a good thing imho.

And I'm biased: I've gone through 3 sets of magnetic lights to tow my jeep. They surely don't last very long for me. And I don't tow all that often.

 

[BudGates]

High quality heat shrink terminals are better than solder. (Ask Maine Sail)

Any boat trailer I've seen that has good quality submersible LEDs, separate ground wires, and connected properly have been problem free afterwards. And you don't need to faff about with sticking them on or off. Not saying it won't work, but one less thing to do during launch is a good thing imho.

And I'm biased: I've gone through 3 sets of magnetic lights to tow my jeep. They surely don't last very long for me. And I don't tow all that often.

I'd have to agree with JeepBlueTJ. I've been through at least 3 sets of magnetic lights. The problem that I have is that, no matter how secure I think it is, they often seem to fall off and get beat up.

As many have mentioned submersible LEDs are the biggest part of the solution for two main reasons. The first one is obviously that water can get into light sockets causing corrosion and deteriorating them in a fairly short time. The second reason may be a little less obvious and the reason people tell you to unplug your trailer lights before submerging them. You're probably using your breaks while backing down the ramp causing the break lights to come on making the bulbs hot. As soon as the hot bulbs hit the cool water they will burst. LEDs don't have either of these problems.

 

[Brian S]

I'd have to agree with JeepBlueTJYou're probably using your breaks while backing down the ramp causing the break lights to come on making the bulbs hot. As soon as the hot bulbs hit the cool water they will burst. LEDs don't have either of these problems.

While I agree with Bud on this, I do know that they make trailer bulbs which are dipped in clear plastic so as to prevent the shattering when they hit the water.

 

[dscribner]

For the wires, get a 50 foot three wire extension cord. You run one length down each side of the trailer. Use the white and black for the colored wires and green as the ground. So, you have a dedicated ground wire that isn't dependent on a rusty screw. The wires are well protected and doubly so. Any connections, solder and coat with liquid electrical tape.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Funny that I often do not see anyone disconnecting the lights from the tow vehicle before launching

 

[Daveinet]

Harbor Freight has LED lights on sale. I've used those lights on several trailers and they work well. I leave the lights plugged in, as it helps find the trailer under water when I load the boat after dark. Something not mentioned about LEDs. Since LEDs pull a lot less current, the connectors are much less prone to failure. Current through the connectors creates heat if the connection is the least bit loose. That heat creates resistance, and the resistance creates heat. That condition is referred to as thermal runaway and a significant cause of corrosion.
LEDs also increase safety because they instantly turn on rather than ramp up. The instant on draws attension to the brake lights much better than the ramp up of incandescence.