Has anyone attempted to launch a shoal draft at a public access? I have an S2 7.3 with shoal draft (32 inches) on a trailer and I'm cheap. Not too cheap to avoid wrecking my beloved boat if I have to sling it. But... I have a pretty deep ramp near me and thought maybe... if someone has tried it or has a method. My trailer does NOT have an extention and no winch (but could easily install a winch). Let me know if you've attempted. THANKS
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Don't do it
Without an extension you would have to back your tow vehicle into the water to get enough water under the boat to float it. Sure a steeper ramp would help but I don't think it could be steep enough. The other problem is the length of the ramp. Most ramps are not much longer than a large trailer. If you back over the edge(and yes there will be a drop off) you will never get your vehicle or trailer out without a large piece of towing equipment. Tidal water would help this(we have very long ramps in Maine at HT). Get an extension or get a lift. A good fabricator could probably install one for the cost of using the lift. Why risk this for a couple hundred bucks. BTW, we used to moor at a public field with a boat launch. We had more fun watching people get into trouble with their boats and trailors. I know that is mean but we would offer to help and get turned down. Most were stinkpotters but one day a guy came sailing in parallel to the dock on a downwind leg and his boom was so far out it swept over the dock as he beached his boat on the concrete ramp. Luckily everyone ducked after I yelled from shore and no one was hurt. One guy tried to grab the boom but he failed and went down. Tim R.
Without an extension you would have to back your tow vehicle into the water to get enough water under the boat to float it. Sure a steeper ramp would help but I don't think it could be steep enough. The other problem is the length of the ramp. Most ramps are not much longer than a large trailer. If you back over the edge(and yes there will be a drop off) you will never get your vehicle or trailer out without a large piece of towing equipment. Tidal water would help this(we have very long ramps in Maine at HT). Get an extension or get a lift. A good fabricator could probably install one for the cost of using the lift. Why risk this for a couple hundred bucks. BTW, we used to moor at a public field with a boat launch. We had more fun watching people get into trouble with their boats and trailors. I know that is mean but we would offer to help and get turned down. Most were stinkpotters but one day a guy came sailing in parallel to the dock on a downwind leg and his boom was so far out it swept over the dock as he beached his boat on the concrete ramp. Luckily everyone ducked after I yelled from shore and no one was hurt. One guy tried to grab the boom but he failed and went down. Tim R.
a different view
If you know you have the length on the ramp you can launch using either a cable or strap. Its done all the time at our marina. The rigged boat is backed down to the waters edge then chocked, the truck is pulled back up the ramp and the cable/strap is hooked to the trailer and truck the chock is removed the trailer is lowered into the water boat is floated off. I have seen S2 7.3, North-Stars, and several J's launched using this technique. As stated in the earlier post you must know you have the ramp length or retrieving your boat could prove problematic. Oh they call it boat on a rope launching.
If you know you have the length on the ramp you can launch using either a cable or strap. Its done all the time at our marina. The rigged boat is backed down to the waters edge then chocked, the truck is pulled back up the ramp and the cable/strap is hooked to the trailer and truck the chock is removed the trailer is lowered into the water boat is floated off. I have seen S2 7.3, North-Stars, and several J's launched using this technique. As stated in the earlier post you must know you have the ramp length or retrieving your boat could prove problematic. Oh they call it boat on a rope launching.
Can be done
Tim that reminds me of seeing a guy launch his power boat one afternoon - it floated right off the trailer no problem. No problem, until, he tried to pull forward and the rig back up the ramp - no go. The trailer wheels had fallen off the end of ramp, so he unhitched it (what was he thinking?) and off it goes, into the river! I watched for about half an hour while he "skin dived" after it. I still have no idea what he thought he would do with the trailer when he found it underwater!
Tim that reminds me of seeing a guy launch his power boat one afternoon - it floated right off the trailer no problem. No problem, until, he tried to pull forward and the rig back up the ramp - no go. The trailer wheels had fallen off the end of ramp, so he unhitched it (what was he thinking?) and off it goes, into the river! I watched for about half an hour while he "skin dived" after it. I still have no idea what he thought he would do with the trailer when he found it underwater!
Strap Launch
The strap launch described by Ken is done all the time here as well - to 28' and 4' draft - no other way on to some of our lakes. Some caveats: Our lakes have steep long ramps - you will need to think very carefully about ramps in your area. Depending upon how much water levels fluctuate, the ramps may or not be steep and long enough for a strap launch. With a tow strap - you will need a nose wheel on the trailer, and a good majorly solid means of locking and chocking the trailer tires while you rig the strap. It is way easier to just have a yard and hoist do it - if I had the choice, I'd save the hassle and use them.
The strap launch described by Ken is done all the time here as well - to 28' and 4' draft - no other way on to some of our lakes. Some caveats: Our lakes have steep long ramps - you will need to think very carefully about ramps in your area. Depending upon how much water levels fluctuate, the ramps may or not be steep and long enough for a strap launch. With a tow strap - you will need a nose wheel on the trailer, and a good majorly solid means of locking and chocking the trailer tires while you rig the strap. It is way easier to just have a yard and hoist do it - if I had the choice, I'd save the hassle and use them.
Mark the end of the ramp and measure
distance to waters edge at high tide (A)(if on tidal basin). Measure the distance from the rear axle of the trailer to the rear axle of the tow vehicle.(B) If (A) is greater than (B) Now you will now you will know you can back all the way to the two vehicle tires touching the water. Measure the distance from the front of the keel to the axle of the tow vehicle. (C) Find out how deep is the water at length (C). I calculate you will need an approximate depth of 48" to allow for the height of the keel over ground on the trailer plus the depth of displaced water by the weight of the boat to allow it to float. If you can get to that depth without dropping your trailer you can do it. If you cannot back your tow vehicle far enough you may try releasing the trailer coupling and with it tied by a cable or rope to a fixed Pylon let it slowly go back. The length of the cable or rope should not exceed the distance which would allow the trailer to drop off. If you determine the angle of the inclination of the ramp you can calculate the distance and the depth by simple triangle geometry. If there would be a need to retreive the boat I would give myself a margin of safety just in case conditions vary from the date and time of launch. Work the numbers and determine if it is possible at that ramp before you get the boat out there. Make a plan.
distance to waters edge at high tide (A)(if on tidal basin). Measure the distance from the rear axle of the trailer to the rear axle of the tow vehicle.(B) If (A) is greater than (B) Now you will now you will know you can back all the way to the two vehicle tires touching the water. Measure the distance from the front of the keel to the axle of the tow vehicle. (C) Find out how deep is the water at length (C). I calculate you will need an approximate depth of 48" to allow for the height of the keel over ground on the trailer plus the depth of displaced water by the weight of the boat to allow it to float. If you can get to that depth without dropping your trailer you can do it. If you cannot back your tow vehicle far enough you may try releasing the trailer coupling and with it tied by a cable or rope to a fixed Pylon let it slowly go back. The length of the cable or rope should not exceed the distance which would allow the trailer to drop off. If you determine the angle of the inclination of the ramp you can calculate the distance and the depth by simple triangle geometry. If there would be a need to retreive the boat I would give myself a margin of safety just in case conditions vary from the date and time of launch. Work the numbers and determine if it is possible at that ramp before you get the boat out there. Make a plan.
Used to do it all the time
My previous boat (18 footer, shoal keel) was easy to launch using a rope tied to the trailer and to the hitch on the truck - I could literally let it out by hand until it was deep enough to float off. Now I use a home-made extension that is just a 4x4 cut down a little at one end to fit a strap welded under the trailer tongue and having a female hitch fitting at the other end. It works pretty well, and when the rear truck tires are starting to get wet, I know she's about deep enough. As others have said, though, BE SURE to check where the ramp ends and what the bottom is like from there on out. At my marina the bottom is still pretty consistent and I think you could keep backing the trailer if necessary. We have a nice mark on the dock to indicate where the ramp ends. There are numerous horror stories about blunders at the ramp, including the guy who didn't release the hold-down straps on the boat or set his handbrake, and saw the floating boat and trailer pull his truck down the ramp into the water. I wonder if a big truck inner tube or two could be used to float a sunken trailer?
My previous boat (18 footer, shoal keel) was easy to launch using a rope tied to the trailer and to the hitch on the truck - I could literally let it out by hand until it was deep enough to float off. Now I use a home-made extension that is just a 4x4 cut down a little at one end to fit a strap welded under the trailer tongue and having a female hitch fitting at the other end. It works pretty well, and when the rear truck tires are starting to get wet, I know she's about deep enough. As others have said, though, BE SURE to check where the ramp ends and what the bottom is like from there on out. At my marina the bottom is still pretty consistent and I think you could keep backing the trailer if necessary. We have a nice mark on the dock to indicate where the ramp ends. There are numerous horror stories about blunders at the ramp, including the guy who didn't release the hold-down straps on the boat or set his handbrake, and saw the floating boat and trailer pull his truck down the ramp into the water. I wonder if a big truck inner tube or two could be used to float a sunken trailer?
Pay attention to Benny's post
I launch a 27' hunter all the time this way. It is a fixed lead keel with 42" draft. If you have a plan and a good strap, it can be done safely and quickly. I have pulled my 27 to Florida and several of the Great lakes. I ALWAYS know the details of the ramp before I launch and usually before I even arrive. good luck
I launch a 27' hunter all the time this way. It is a fixed lead keel with 42" draft. If you have a plan and a good strap, it can be done safely and quickly. I have pulled my 27 to Florida and several of the Great lakes. I ALWAYS know the details of the ramp before I launch and usually before I even arrive. good luck
extension
you can make an extension with 2 in gal pipe a trailor ball and hitch bought at walmart. my experience is always have the right equipment it will save you in the end and pay for itself also check lenght of ramp God Bless
you can make an extension with 2 in gal pipe a trailor ball and hitch bought at walmart. my experience is always have the right equipment it will save you in the end and pay for itself also check lenght of ramp God Bless
Trailer Tongue Extension Can Be Added
by a local welder or, better yet, by a boat trailer manufacturer. I'm wondering... If one uses a strap, or any flexible "extension" link to the trailer, doesn't the trailer tip up as the boat load moves to the trailer's end? This tip-up could happen at either, or both, launching and reteival.
by a local welder or, better yet, by a boat trailer manufacturer. I'm wondering... If one uses a strap, or any flexible "extension" link to the trailer, doesn't the trailer tip up as the boat load moves to the trailer's end? This tip-up could happen at either, or both, launching and reteival.
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