trailer bunk replacement question

Status
Not open for further replies.
W

william

i have my h23 blocked-up and am replacing the bunks and carpet on the trailer. one is broken, (the 2x4 wood under the carpet), and murictic acid reeked havoc with the old carpet on both. i marked the posts where they stuck out the bottom of the sleeve so i could get them back in the exact places, (which is kind of a moot point now since i found 2 layers of carpet and probably should raise them a bit higher now). my question is: does anyone have their h23 in the driveway and would be willing to take a measurement to tell my how far your posts that bracket to the bunks extend below the sleeves they slide into. my front ones were flush with the bottom of the sleeve, center extended about 1/2" below the sleeve, and rear maybe 3/4" below the sleeve......real kicker is they are different right and left but aproximately the same idea......fromt posts are flush on both sides but middle and back are a little different....maybe 1/2" each.
 
D

Dave Noack

Trailer Bunks

William,I have an 87h23. only a couple of the posts stick down below the sheave. So I measured from the hull to the top of the sheave that holds the post. Front starboard 21 3/4": Middle starboard 20 3/4": Rear Starboard 22 1/4": Front Port 20 1/8": Middle Port 19 3/4": Rear Port 21 1/4". I haven't adjusted these at all. Hope this helps. Also, how did you get your boat off the trailer and blocked up? I'm about to tackle bottom painting and could use suggestions. Thanks Dave "Wind Dreamer"
 
W

william

Dave, just what i needed....

between your measurements and my measurements and some common sense i will set up the new bunks evenly, bearing i believe 30% weight, (by taking a WAG), and go with it. i used the "drop the trailer bow, block the stern, and raise the bow back up" method to get the weight off the bunks. i built a heavy "sawhorse/framework" to block the stern up that is totally disassembalable and stowable.....(put together w/ carriage bolts).....at the height of the stern with the bow trailer wheel lowered all the way. then i used a scissor jack to raise the trailer bow back up putting the stern weight on the framework. (i don't trust using the bow trailer wheel for this). i found 2 tricks here. after a certain point, since the pivot point is the trailer wheels you begin to loose ground the higher you go with the trailer bow. second, my front roller was not contacting the bottom of the boat and upon inspection i noticed that the way it is designed it had tilted forward. i hooked my come-along winch to it and pulled it back till it was supporting the bow. at this point i had a solid "3 point stance" and gingerly lowered the port bunk. it was rock solid and i felt comfortable enough climbing back up on the boat to resecure the tie-downs. i believe it is solid enough that i could do both bunks at once but i'm doing one-at-a-time. i'll send some pics if you like if you send an e mail address to williamrd@attglobal.net. now if i could just figure how to get to the bottom of the keel to paint it!
 
Jun 3, 2004
232
- - -
One way...

I don't remember where I got this photo. This isn't a shot of my own H23 but I used the same system to do my bottom paint last Spring. The 4 x 4's with carpet pads line up with the bulkheads. I just lowered/painted one side at a time on mine, because I'm not suicidal, and she was rock steady. I used a floor jack when I pushed the bunks back up against her bottom to make sure the bunks were up snug.
 
D

Dave Noack

Thanks guys.....

for the info. Now if I can just convince myself the bottom of the Keel will be alright .......Naw I have to get to it too:{ Dave "Wind Dreamer"
 
Status
Not open for further replies.