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Trailer bunk ideas

Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
So I just picked up this Montego 19. I know it’s not necessarily a fan favorite BUT, its complete, solid, no real glaring problems, and the standing rigging had recently been completely replaced. Nice find for the price.

I have a concern about the trailer that it’s sitting on. From what I understand it has sat on and sailed from this trailer for many a year.

One of the bunks seems to be... pulling away from the main side member of the trailer. It’s not connected very well, pretty sure just a single giant lag bolt, the weight of the boards, and hopes and prayers.

Since there are no crossmembers (those crossmembers by the axle are L shaped) my THEORY at the moment is to do redo big sistered boards, but making notches for the Axle cross members to lower the boat 2-4 inches (which I gather is a better situation anyway), and to get a better connection with U boats or brackets. I think this will also prevent the pulling/ripping force since the board won’t be so high from the mount surface.

The boat is rather flat on the bottom, the “ok” bunk sits right flat on the bottom my concern is the pulled board riding the corner, and obviously the possibility it might knock over.

Any other ideas?
 

Attachments

May 24, 2004
6,194
CC 30 South Florida
You have to have sufficient height for the swing keel to clear the cross member; also the swing keel should have some sort of soft base to rest on so when the boat is stored the tension could be released from the cable. Wood seems ok, replace the U Bolts and cushion on the boards.
 
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
Good call on the swing keel. It’s lowered and I agree on the soft surface for the keel (just picked it up saturday).

I will raise the keel the entire way and see about the clearance. You mean that as the boat lowers to the water the keel will get closer to those crossmembers yes?

The U bolts actually hold the rectangular tubing to the axle members. Theres a notch cut out of the wood to allow clearance. The only wood connection to the trailer is with that galvanized head of a lag screw you see on the outboard side.

So at the very least if the setup looks OK I would like to have maybe a wider board with enough clearance to get a ubolt around the rectangular frame, and a non-warped board

Should I be concerned about board location? Pressures on the hull etc in random spots. It seems pretty flat down there and I cant find any buckling spots. People used to beach these things and let the tide run out I guess so I’m probably worrying a bit too much about it.
 

RussC

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Sep 11, 2015
1,443
Merit 22- Oregon lakes
Hard to tell from the photos, but it looks to me like you could re-mount the axle above the springs to substantially lower the boat for launching.
 
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
Hard to tell from the photos, but it looks to me like you could re-mount the axle above the springs to substantially lower the boat for launching.
I will take a picture from the other side and see. I was told there were slightly bigger wheels on it and the PO changed them but not anything else about the trailer. Is that a common setup?
 
Nov 23, 2018
38
Vandestadt & McGruer Ltd. Siren 17 Choctawhatchee Bay
I wouldn't mind seeing more photos of this boat. I wasn't aware of the Montego 19 until now...
 
Oct 19, 2017
6,226
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
You might consider laying a 2x4 or 2x6 on the flat, supported by two or three swivel brackets per side.

This will allow you to adjust the height and angle to fit your boat.

-Will (Dragonfly)
I had first looked at those but it looks like they should be mounted on crossmembers either rectangular or I-Beams. If I mount them to what I have then their swivel adjustment will go parallel instead of perpendicular to the trailer which wouldnt let it conform unless I’m wrong?

That was my first instinct until I realize the crossmembers i do have are L shaped and I don‘t know about getting a ubolt to go onto those, also they are close together.

Not sure what you mean by “2x4 or 2x6 on the flat” either, did you mean the bottom under the swing keel?

I did ask a trailer shop for advice and they werent much help so I’ll try another one soon. He suggested getting bolt-on crossmembers which seemed expensive and excessive to end up with basically vertical bunk boards like I already have.
 
Oct 19, 2017
6,226
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
“2x4 or 2x6 on the flat”
20161003_162016-1.jpg

I guess my photo doesn't show it very well, but the first thing I did when I brought my Mariner home was replace the rollers with bunks. They are 6" wide p.t. planks laid horizontally (on the flat face). My swivel brackets are a little different than those I found above, so I had to cut a 2x4 with a bevel to match the round bilges. The fore and aft rocker is naturally formed when the weight of the boat sits on the bunks.

For bolting a set to your frame, it looks like the swivel is in the right direction for conforming to the rocker, but you will have to cut the angle of the bilges. Taper the cross section of the 2x lengthwise with a table saw. I used sill plate foam insulation under the carpet, to pad it for better support.

4 or 5 layers.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
Ah okay I see now. This was my first instinct unfortunately I don't see a way to put those brackets flat to the front without installing crossmembers which is a possibility I suppose. I could attach short brackets to attach them to but Inworry about their strength long term.
 
Apr 26, 2015
506
S2 26 Mid On Trailer
Rather than buy expensive brackets get some 2x2 angle iron or aluminum and make your own bracket. You could bolt them to the fore/aft rectangular tubing inside or out. Then lay the 2x6 on it's side like Russ C. You should see how much clearance you have between the keel fully raised and a properly padded cross member and lower the bunks for about half inch keel clearance. For padding I use stall mat from Tractor Supply or your local horse store under the carpet.
 
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Likes: LloydB
Jun 8, 2004
7,991
-na -NA Anywhere USA
The keel as it stands rests on the cross member. Not good. As suggested a keel tray is needed. Bunk boards with three supports on each side. The boat as it appears sits on flat boards allowing only one contact on the hull which has or will indent the hull. Incorporate 10% weight on the trailer tongue jack for safety. Also check bearings/ racers replacing if necessary. You may have to raise the bunks so boat will not jam the keel down thus causing damage to hull. Former dealer who designed trailers. Look st the photo of Russ C gives you a good idea. Thanks Russ. You may need a short extension for launching if the boat is raised on the trailer.
Long time since hearing Montego but considered a well built boat
 
  • Like
Likes: LloydB
Oct 19, 2017
6,226
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Rather than buy expensive brackets get some 2x2 angle iron or aluminum and make your own bracket.
The swivel brackets pictured above are only $12 each on Amazon. I think they also come in a multi-pack at a better price. In Polyneux's case, they should be able to 'U' bolt right to the left and right frame beams.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
The swivel brackets pictured above are only $12 each on Amazon. I think they also come in a multi-pack at a better price. In Polyneux's case, they should be able to 'U' bolt right to the left and right frame beams.

-Will (Dragonfly)

If I do that won't the angle of the swivel mechanism go opposite the direction I need to? I e if I ubolt those to the side frames.. the swivels will go along the boat instead of against it. Does that make sense?
 
Oct 19, 2017
6,226
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
It allows the angle to follow the rocker, you will need to either bend an angle into the flang or add angled blocks to match the bilge. That's how mine are. They rock fore and aft.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Feb 3, 2020
8
UMC Montego Jacksonville, FL
Ooh I see. So bend the 90 degree brace point up a bit and then it will have an angle. And the rockers fore and aft should bend to give a curve or be mostly straight?
 
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Likes: Will Gilmore

LloydB

.
Jan 15, 2006
435
Macgregor 22 Silverton
Those brackets are made to attach to the cross members of the trailer frame with a big u-bolt. If you wanted to attach brackets to the rails then you would find a bracket with a swivel that was 90 degrees to the ones pictured or drill a new hole and move the swivel to the other side of the bracket. Although two brackets each side would probably be enough for short haul trips the cross members are too close together to give you good longitudinal support. To me the trailer looks like it was set up to just get the boat in and out of the water at a deep ramp to avoid slip or boat moorage fees not highway travel. It looks like the tongue as a sliding extension on it for shallower ramps. I think an even better configuration would be too move the rails under the cross frame with new bolts so that the trailer doesn't have to be so deep in the water to float the boat. And by the way since I open that can of worms I would suggest that you invest in a new set of LED trailer lights with included new wiring some UV protected zip ties and a cheap Volt ohm meter. Best bang for the buck and time a trailer trailer sailor are can make.