Trail rite tongue extension

Hamsandwich · Jun 20, 2013

I'm right in the middle of redoing my trailer. Not sure if it's exactly the same as yours. And boy let me tell you that extension square tube was rusted in there, I had to beat it with a sledge to get it to come free. I would make sure it slides nice before you even put it on the tow vehicle. It seems to me that prior to launching it would be easier to unhook it from the ball on the vehicle, pull the 2 pins, slide the extension out and then put the pins back in, and rehook it to the vehicle. I noticed it's almost impossible to get the pin holes to line up when moving it with the vehicle. Just my 2 cents.

justsomeguy · Jun 20, 2013

Nice little barn, too!

Patrick S/V Shangra-La · Jun 21, 2013

When you get to the launch ramp, put the landing gear down. Pull the pin on the extension as some one else pulls the tow vehicle forward slowly.
Be ready when the hole shows up in the extension put the pin back in then you will be ready to lower the boat into the water.

When you pull the boat out of the water, and are on level ground pull the pin and push the extension back into the trailer.

Don't forget to disconnect the trailer light plug before you begin to pull the extension out.

Chris Patterson · Jun 21, 2013

Owning a couple of small wheel chocks go a long way as well.

Milton.Audas · Jun 21, 2013

Further to Patrick's comment, disconnect your safety chains from the vehicle before extending the tongue, as well as the wiring harness. I use a couple of cheap plastic wheel chocks on each side of both wheels which holds the trailer in one place. You can use the vehicle to pull it out, or by hand. The latter is easier if you have greased up the toungue with marine grease. If using your vehicle, I have found that winding the 3rd wheel a few turns helps as the tongue extends and the angle of attack changes, especially if your hitch height is different to the normal tongue height.

Ken Secor · Jun 21, 2013

Aligning the two holes when switching from normal to extended tube is a beach. A tad too far reverse it, miss it again, reverse again. Worst possible scenario, you pull the extension far enough to bend the extension or the tube - nightmare city!

Next time I go out I'm trying this:

1. DC the ball hitch from the bumper using the landing gear/5th wheel.

2. Pull the pins and simply pull the extension tube out with two hands.

3. Drop the pins back in when aligned and reconnect the ball hitch to the trailer coupler.

It is my opinion that using the ball with the boat-weight on the tongue makes sliding the extension jerky and dangerous (especially if the tires get on the wrong side of the blocks and grade makes the boat weight extend the tube past being engaged!

You can see the tube and extension bend - implying huge friction rather than easy out or in - as would be the case with no weight being on the extension - have the 5th wheel take the load leaving the extension tube dead neutral - and presumably extendable or insertable by hand pull/push alone.

Anyone do it this way?

Ken · Jun 21, 2013

While it took a bit of extra time I always pulled the extension out by hand as well as when sliding it back in travel mode. No extension now..... Makes for some tricky launching and retrieving with the wing....

Hamsandwich · Jun 21, 2013

I'm just gonna stick this question here, because it's a thread about the trailers. I need new tires, can I get away with C rated, or should I try to find some D or E rated. The axles don't look that heavy anyway and they are only 5 hole rims, not sure if it would do much good to put uber tires on there. Boat is probably around #2500 or so?, plus your crap aboard of course.

Here's a pic of the original 1972 vintage that's on it now. Nice huh!

When I bought the boat, I drove on those about 40 miles home, the boat sat all winter and they never lost an ounce of air pressure. Man they made stuff good back then!

Chris Patterson · Jun 22, 2013

Ham, ya need to find a trailer "rated" tire. They're different. Around here, a tire shop will not even put an auto tire on the trailer wheel.

And I always used to cut the truck loose to extend the tongue. I can't imagine the slow motion train wreck of trying to do it while still attached..

watercolors II · Jun 24, 2013

Length does matter

Pictures or a full description such as length of extension would be a big help in helping you.

There are two types of trailer extensions; one for increasing trailer length for a longer boat and an extension for placing the trailer much deeper into the water.

Hamsandwich’s photo is for extending the trailer for a longer boat, it only moves out maybe 18 to 24 inches. If this is what you’re talking about then I would just pull it out and let it there, 2 feet is nothing when towing, why go through all the time and effort for 2 feet at the launch ramp. I did this with my trailer when I changed towing vehicles. Now, adding this 2 feet to the trailer length when towing will drop the tongue weight at the ball maybe enough to disrupt the towing balance, so test it first.

If your extension extends out 6 to 8 feet then the descriptions the other fellows are providing is great info.

mpaule · Jun 24, 2013

Carry extra safety chain and USE it!

It can be really dangerous to move the boat up and down the ramp without a safety chain. When you pull up past the transition of the ramp from downward to level, there is strong upward pressure put on the hitch-ball connection that the lock won't necessarily hold. I once saw a C22 chase a guys wife all the way back down the ramp after it came loose from the vehicle. Luckily, she was able to dive in between two big rocks and the boat and trailer went right over her without hitting her.
I carry about a 3 foot length of chain that I wrap around the surge brake unit and through the safety-chain loop on the hitch, and then lock with a carabiner. If the hitch disconnected, that would keep the trailer from getting free. It costs a few bucks and takes maybe 30 seconds, but it is much safer.

Milton.Audas said:
Further to Patrick's comment, disconnect your safety chains from the vehicle before extending the tongue, as well as the wiring harness. I use a couple of cheap plastic wheel chocks on each side of both wheels which holds the trailer in one place. You can use the vehicle to pull it out, or by hand. The latter is easier if you have greased up the toungue with marine grease. If using your vehicle, I have found that winding the 3rd wheel a few turns helps as the tongue extends and the angle of attack changes, especially if your hitch height is different to the normal tongue height.

ShotgunSlim · Jun 27, 2013

For me, I have an older '70s era trailer for my boat and I have learned through trial, error and reading forums what works for me, by myself is to do the following: I put chocks BEHIND my trailer tires, drop the tongue jack till it hits the ground and then give the crank a couple of turns up, disconnect the trailer lights, pull the 2 pins and then pull the truck forward. I take a small piece of a 2x4, with a hole drilled through it and put a concrete lag bolt in the hole, positioned directly over the bolt holes in the trailer. As I pull the truck forward slowly, the holes line up and the lag bolt drops in place, aligning both holes in the extension. I can then wiggle the tongue enough to put the pins back in place to launch. I do the same thing when recovering. Sometimes I may have to play with it a bit, backing up and then forward but eventually, I'll get it.

CaptDon01 · Jun 27, 2013

Concerning trailer tires, I had some concerns on the weight of our boat and trailer. The Trail-Rite trailer came with 14" load range-C tires, and I was max'ed out. I couldn't find load range-D tires in a 14" size except on the internet. I figured that ain't good if I have a problem on the road, so I changed the wheels out to 15" wheels with load range-D radial trailer tires. Just returned from a big road trip where we pulled the boat over 5,600 miles with occasional 100+ degree temperatures and had no problems. I had the springs and axle inspected by a knowledgeble trailer dealer and they gave me a good report on the springs and axle. They advised me the Trail-Rite installed springs and axle were top rated, and didn't need any changing. Don't get cheap with your trailer if you intend to tow your boat. Nothing worse than problems on the road to put a damper on your vacation.

Don

Milton.Audas · Jun 27, 2013

Good thoughts mpaule. An extension for the chain is a great idea, and very safety conscious. The thought of boat & trailer finding their own path of potential maim & destruction would be terrible. Now we're in a slip I no longer use my trailer other than in/out once a year. But when we did dry store I was probably at risk of such an event twice every weekend. Good advice sir...

Ken Secor · Jun 28, 2013

While on trailers...

My Trail-Rite has leaf springs. I always thought leaf springs had one end fixed end (usually with a full circle loop on one end - the other end sort of "floating" in a shackle-like "cage."

I didn't notice any rubber bushing in the one end.

Is that the way it is - or, is my rubber bushing just worn to oblivion?

Ken · Jun 28, 2013

Championtrailers.com. Everything you ever wanted to know of trailers. Good folks excellent customer service....

In answer to your question if memory serves I think there are three different springs.

Hamsandwich · Jun 29, 2013

I was always concerned with the design of my trailer as the axle is only about 2 inches or so below the keel. Hit a large bump or pot hole, wouldn't the axle come up and strike the keel?

Trail rite tongue extension

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