Have been following single-handing thread, coincidental with my toying with the idea of trading up to a '89 30'. My questions relate to the issue of the location of the traveler on the 30' ... how do you 30' owners like its location; particalarly while single-handing? And, do you have the shallow well problem with water all over the floor, like I do with my 28.5? Have had stuffing box repacked, have tighened and retightended. Still get the water! Is this inherent in all Hunters? Re sail plan ... I purchased a 140% genoa for my 28.5 last year from Quantum/Quest. Love the sail, but single handing in a blow is a bit difficult, because the continuous roller furling line works its way loose when I reef [I may have corrected that this weekend by cleating both "ends" to separate cleats. Sail volume appears to be only 33' greater than 28.5 [with 110%],which shouldn't be any problem ... One huge problem [well, maybe in the bigger scheme of things it's not HUGE, but I wish I had a solution ...] I have had with the 28.5 is the location of the knot meter/transducer thru-hull. If I could pull it occasionally, I would have things growing in it, making my speedo read nothing or a much slower speed than I am realy going! Where is this located on the 30'? Well, enough. I love my 28.5, but am exploring hte possibilities! Thanks for any input! Dee Doyle s/v Esprit
- Status
H30
I have a 1990 H30 and it is by far the easiest boat to single head that i have owned or sailed and it is also a very dry boat. the impellar is located just aft of the v berth in the sole with a small teak step as a cover...very easy to pull. The cockpit is fairly small so the traveler is actually not out of the way.
I have a 1990 H30 and it is by far the easiest boat to single head that i have owned or sailed and it is also a very dry boat. the impellar is located just aft of the v berth in the sole with a small teak step as a cover...very easy to pull. The cockpit is fairly small so the traveler is actually not out of the way.
Other issues!!!
I think you've got other issues causing some of your problems. My '87 28.5 has Harken roller furling (single line, NOT continuous) that I fly a 130% off of with no problems. The bilge under my Yanmar stays dry even with the 1hr. or more motor I impose on myself to make sure the engine warms-up (1/2 hr.out,1/2 hr.back). No water "all over my floor".I hope that you are reefing to the 1st reef in your main any time that the wind is over 15knts. These Hunters get most of their power from the genoa and with a 140% you are seriously over canvassed in anything over 12-15 knts. My transducer is located under the forward V- berth, just forward of the bulkhead that forms the dividing line between v-berth and the main salon. Not easy to get to, but not impossible. Fortunately I'm on fresh water and don't have to screw around with the transducer much,but I could if I had to.As far as single-handing,I'm on my boat alone 80-90% of the time and don't think it could get any easier.
I think you've got other issues causing some of your problems. My '87 28.5 has Harken roller furling (single line, NOT continuous) that I fly a 130% off of with no problems. The bilge under my Yanmar stays dry even with the 1hr. or more motor I impose on myself to make sure the engine warms-up (1/2 hr.out,1/2 hr.back). No water "all over my floor".I hope that you are reefing to the 1st reef in your main any time that the wind is over 15knts. These Hunters get most of their power from the genoa and with a 140% you are seriously over canvassed in anything over 12-15 knts. My transducer is located under the forward V- berth, just forward of the bulkhead that forms the dividing line between v-berth and the main salon. Not easy to get to, but not impossible. Fortunately I'm on fresh water and don't have to screw around with the transducer much,but I could if I had to.As far as single-handing,I'm on my boat alone 80-90% of the time and don't think it could get any easier.
About to single handle
Dee, I have a 1991 Hunter 30T. I just installed an auto pilot. I think this is essential to single handle. The boat is great. I have no leak in the stuffing box and the engine is a gem. This boat has a "working jib" which is all that is needed as it has a huge main. I did install a whisker pole to help on the downwind run. i love this boat for the Chesapeake Bay.
Dee, I have a 1991 Hunter 30T. I just installed an auto pilot. I think this is essential to single handle. The boat is great. I have no leak in the stuffing box and the engine is a gem. This boat has a "working jib" which is all that is needed as it has a huge main. I did install a whisker pole to help on the downwind run. i love this boat for the Chesapeake Bay.
Some Thoughts re Questions
Bilge water: There should be a small amount of water comming from the stuffing box because water is required to keep it cool. A good alternative to the stuffing box is a shaft seal, for example, the PSS shaft seal (http://www.pyiinc.com), or equal. There are several brands available. A shaft seal will help keep water off the cabin sole and out of your lockers. Sometimes water can get past the shaft seal if the shaft vibrates or the compression on the bellows becomes weak with time. The compression on the bellows needs to be tightened after a few years due to set. Good option for the next boat. Sail power: for single handing the 140 will give one a workout when tacking. I sail with a 110 which was the OEM size on my H-35 and it's a handfull. I'd agree with a previous poster with regard to the 140. This is a much lighter wind sail than the 110 and the concern I'd have is with blowing it out in high wind strengths, even with it partially furled. If you still have the old sail it would be good to consider a recut and use it in stronger wind conditions. Sails are too expensive to blow out. I also agree with throwing a reef in the main early on, 16 to 20 knots, if for no other reason than to protect the sail. Furler: All the Hunters during this time period came with below deck Hood continuous line drive furlers as original equipment so what you have is nodoubt original. They are not maintenance free; however, and if not properly installed, adjusted, and maintained they can cause a problem. Transducer paint: There is a paint sold for use on depth sounder transducers which I also use on the speed transducer. I believe it's teflon. Comes in a very small plastic container and costs a bunch but will last for many years. Some areas are more prone for bottom growth than others and stuff semes to like to grow on speed impellers. Because the water is so cold here I use the flossing technique for cleaning which is to run a not so good line from port to starboard and run it back and forth to get it unstuck. Once running it works okay for a couple weeks of non-use. You have good questions and hope my 2 cents worth helps. Good sailing!
Bilge water: There should be a small amount of water comming from the stuffing box because water is required to keep it cool. A good alternative to the stuffing box is a shaft seal, for example, the PSS shaft seal (http://www.pyiinc.com), or equal. There are several brands available. A shaft seal will help keep water off the cabin sole and out of your lockers. Sometimes water can get past the shaft seal if the shaft vibrates or the compression on the bellows becomes weak with time. The compression on the bellows needs to be tightened after a few years due to set. Good option for the next boat. Sail power: for single handing the 140 will give one a workout when tacking. I sail with a 110 which was the OEM size on my H-35 and it's a handfull. I'd agree with a previous poster with regard to the 140. This is a much lighter wind sail than the 110 and the concern I'd have is with blowing it out in high wind strengths, even with it partially furled. If you still have the old sail it would be good to consider a recut and use it in stronger wind conditions. Sails are too expensive to blow out. I also agree with throwing a reef in the main early on, 16 to 20 knots, if for no other reason than to protect the sail. Furler: All the Hunters during this time period came with below deck Hood continuous line drive furlers as original equipment so what you have is nodoubt original. They are not maintenance free; however, and if not properly installed, adjusted, and maintained they can cause a problem. Transducer paint: There is a paint sold for use on depth sounder transducers which I also use on the speed transducer. I believe it's teflon. Comes in a very small plastic container and costs a bunch but will last for many years. Some areas are more prone for bottom growth than others and stuff semes to like to grow on speed impellers. Because the water is so cold here I use the flossing technique for cleaning which is to run a not so good line from port to starboard and run it back and forth to get it unstuck. Once running it works okay for a couple weeks of non-use. You have good questions and hope my 2 cents worth helps. Good sailing!
Single handing H30
I also have an '89 H30G and sail mostly single-handed. I don't find any serious problems in normal to moderate weather. The boat can get to be a handful when going downwind in heavy air with a large following swell. The traveller works OK, with 6:1 advantage on the mainsheet and 3:1 on the traveller. What can be a problem is the interaction of the mainsheet, traveller, and a dodger. The dodger makes it a little difficult to uncleat the mainsheet in a hurry. It also interferes with adjusting the vang. I actually don't like cleating the mainseet at all (lessons learned from dinghy sailing days), but there is no choice on a boat this size. As frequently mentioned on this site, the Hood continuous line reefing unit makes a very poor furling unit. I also recommend an autohelm unit for single-handing. I have the older ST4000 on my boat, and it works well. Another recommendation is to rig single-line reefing for both mainsail reefing points. This allows you to reef the main without leaving the cockpit. Also, I am planning to bring the topping lift back to the cockpit, as that will assist reefing the main. Overall, I find this an excellent boat with surprizingly good performance, especially going to weather. Good luck with your decision. Bob England
I also have an '89 H30G and sail mostly single-handed. I don't find any serious problems in normal to moderate weather. The boat can get to be a handful when going downwind in heavy air with a large following swell. The traveller works OK, with 6:1 advantage on the mainsheet and 3:1 on the traveller. What can be a problem is the interaction of the mainsheet, traveller, and a dodger. The dodger makes it a little difficult to uncleat the mainsheet in a hurry. It also interferes with adjusting the vang. I actually don't like cleating the mainseet at all (lessons learned from dinghy sailing days), but there is no choice on a boat this size. As frequently mentioned on this site, the Hood continuous line reefing unit makes a very poor furling unit. I also recommend an autohelm unit for single-handing. I have the older ST4000 on my boat, and it works well. Another recommendation is to rig single-line reefing for both mainsail reefing points. This allows you to reef the main without leaving the cockpit. Also, I am planning to bring the topping lift back to the cockpit, as that will assist reefing the main. Overall, I find this an excellent boat with surprizingly good performance, especially going to weather. Good luck with your decision. Bob England
1989 Hunter 30
We have sailed our H30 for two seasons now and love it. It is an easy boat to single hand. We do not have a dodger which probably makes it a bit easier. We have an Autohelm but rarely use it. We have a 110% jib and find that is fine. Any more and I think it might overpower the boat. We do have a single line furling system and have had no problem with it. Although, you have to keep some tension on it when unfurling with the jib sheets; it tends to tangle otherwise. I sailed with a friend who has a H37 with the continuous reefing and found it very problematic. It tends to jam if not perfectly alligned with the drum. We have had a problem with the knot meter clogging with growth and have also tried the "flossing technique" mentioned earlier and this sometimes works. This is a great boat that I would recommend to anyone.
We have sailed our H30 for two seasons now and love it. It is an easy boat to single hand. We do not have a dodger which probably makes it a bit easier. We have an Autohelm but rarely use it. We have a 110% jib and find that is fine. Any more and I think it might overpower the boat. We do have a single line furling system and have had no problem with it. Although, you have to keep some tension on it when unfurling with the jib sheets; it tends to tangle otherwise. I sailed with a friend who has a H37 with the continuous reefing and found it very problematic. It tends to jam if not perfectly alligned with the drum. We have had a problem with the knot meter clogging with growth and have also tried the "flossing technique" mentioned earlier and this sometimes works. This is a great boat that I would recommend to anyone.
Roller Reefing vs. Roller Furling
Dee, We have a Hood Sea Furl unit on our '91 H30T flying a 135% Genoa. Bear in mind that this is a roller furling unit and not a roller reefing device. The good news ($$ associated) is that Hood sells a conversion kit that will allow you to change the roller furling to roller reefing. I single hand frequently and don't have any problems with using main and genoa or jib. However, I don't have a dodger either, so that may bear on it some. Good luck and smooth sailing, Steve S/V Sea Squared
Dee, We have a Hood Sea Furl unit on our '91 H30T flying a 135% Genoa. Bear in mind that this is a roller furling unit and not a roller reefing device. The good news ($$ associated) is that Hood sells a conversion kit that will allow you to change the roller furling to roller reefing. I single hand frequently and don't have any problems with using main and genoa or jib. However, I don't have a dodger either, so that may bear on it some. Good luck and smooth sailing, Steve S/V Sea Squared
- Status