I have a tiny car so whenever I need to tow my Legend23.5 I have to hire somebody else. Fortunately I only tow it twice a year becouse I leave it on a mooring in summer. Since I live on an island, we don't have to travel long distances to the sea. Now my car is getting old and I'm considering getting something bigger so that I can tow the boat myself. Now my question is; What is the SMALLEST type of vehicle you would consider to safely tow a boat this size taking in consideration fuel economy/running costs? Would a sub compact suv like the Toyota Voltz/Pontiac Matrix do? Thanks Nicky
Tow vehicle
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Hire somebody...
Since you only tow twice a year, call a tow truck or better yet, bribe a friend. Just my thought. Ross in Tampa
Since you only tow twice a year, call a tow truck or better yet, bribe a friend. Just my thought. Ross in Tampa
You need to be more difinitive with regard to distances and
terrain. If you are towing at low speed for a short distance with very little traffic then a farm tractor would be a good choice. If the steepest grade you must pull is the ramp then traction is your concern. If there is more than a little traffic then being able to stop safely is of great importance. If you must tow for several miles then the ability to tow at reasonable speed is important.
terrain. If you are towing at low speed for a short distance with very little traffic then a farm tractor would be a good choice. If the steepest grade you must pull is the ramp then traction is your concern. If there is more than a little traffic then being able to stop safely is of great importance. If you must tow for several miles then the ability to tow at reasonable speed is important.
FYI
a compact SUV, with a little car engine on a heavier SUV-like body, is probably WORSE for towing than the car alone. As Ross says - Any car can safely tow it along at 5 mph. However, pulling it out of the water with small car is probably not safe with a steep enough ramp that you can launch from. I have a 23, which I will admit, has an extra foot of draft, and weighs an extra 800 lbs or so out of the water. I pull it with an F-150, and I would not consider anything less if I plan on exceeding 35 mph. For your safety and the others on the road, keep that in mind. It's not so much WHAT you are towing, but how fast you are trying to tow it. If you do try to tow it with your matrix, find a straight, empty road, speed up to 55 or 60, and try to STOP. Then do it again without the boat for reference. Find the speed where you feel comfortable stopping quickly. Don't exceed that speed.
a compact SUV, with a little car engine on a heavier SUV-like body, is probably WORSE for towing than the car alone. As Ross says - Any car can safely tow it along at 5 mph. However, pulling it out of the water with small car is probably not safe with a steep enough ramp that you can launch from. I have a 23, which I will admit, has an extra foot of draft, and weighs an extra 800 lbs or so out of the water. I pull it with an F-150, and I would not consider anything less if I plan on exceeding 35 mph. For your safety and the others on the road, keep that in mind. It's not so much WHAT you are towing, but how fast you are trying to tow it. If you do try to tow it with your matrix, find a straight, empty road, speed up to 55 or 60, and try to STOP. Then do it again without the boat for reference. Find the speed where you feel comfortable stopping quickly. Don't exceed that speed.
I HAVE A TOYOTA HIGHLANDER WITH THE V-6 AT 220 hp AND IT WILL TOW UP TO 3,500 POUNDS VERY WELL. AND IT ALSO HAS THE ABILITY TO START OFF IN SECOND GEAR TO PULL YOUR BOAT OUT OF THE WATER. A 2001 LIKE MINE CAN BE PURCHASED FOR LESS THAN $15,000. NO PROBLEMS TOWING IN THE MOUNTAINS EITHER, EVEN IN OVERDRIVE. DUANE "NOVELMAN". BEST YET IT GETS 22 MPG.
If I had your situation
I would save up many errands that require a truck to finish and then rent a Uhaul with a trailer hitch. I would get it all done and tow my boat during same period. That boat towing would be totally stress free with dual rear wheels and heavy duty brakes.
I would save up many errands that require a truck to finish and then rent a Uhaul with a trailer hitch. I would get it all done and tow my boat during same period. That boat towing would be totally stress free with dual rear wheels and heavy duty brakes.
huh
Start out in 2nd gear to pull the boat out of the water? Is this normal? I usually use first gear in low range, and my 1st gear is a lot lower than most first gears...
Start out in 2nd gear to pull the boat out of the water? Is this normal? I usually use first gear in low range, and my 1st gear is a lot lower than most first gears...
Starting out in 2nd gear
It can sometimes be better because it actually puts less torque to the wheels (I think) which causes less spinning of the tires. Just slower and more deliberate. Not going to do you any good if you don't have the power to pull it out, though.
It can sometimes be better because it actually puts less torque to the wheels (I think) which causes less spinning of the tires. Just slower and more deliberate. Not going to do you any good if you don't have the power to pull it out, though.
If you are using an automatic transmission it doesn't
matter where you place the shift selector it starts off in first gear. It simply won't shift up past the gear you selected. Now if you have a standard straight shift transmission you start off in the lowest gear to avoid slipping the clutch excessively. Once you get rolling then you start shifting up without skipping any gears.
matter where you place the shift selector it starts off in first gear. It simply won't shift up past the gear you selected. Now if you have a standard straight shift transmission you start off in the lowest gear to avoid slipping the clutch excessively. Once you get rolling then you start shifting up without skipping any gears.
Well
I know for a fact that on a lot of automatic tranmissions, 1 is 1, 2 is 2, and they won't shift in any of those selections. But the point being, in what scenario are we putting too much torque to the wheels that I need to start in 2nd gear? This isn't ice..this is me trying to haul 4000 lbs of boat and trailer out of the water. If I try to let my engine idle while i'm in gear, i will either A:stall (manual) or B : roll backwards (automatic) I'm just trying to understand if there's anything behind "THE ABILITY TO START OFF IN SECOND GEAR TO PULL YOUR BOAT OUT OF THE WATER" or if it should be ignored. The reason this catches my attention is, on most 80's and 90's ford trucks w/. automatics, if you put it in "2" on a hill, it engages a one-way clutch that prevents you from rolling backwards. This clutch doesn't engage in 1. I wonder...
I know for a fact that on a lot of automatic tranmissions, 1 is 1, 2 is 2, and they won't shift in any of those selections. But the point being, in what scenario are we putting too much torque to the wheels that I need to start in 2nd gear? This isn't ice..this is me trying to haul 4000 lbs of boat and trailer out of the water. If I try to let my engine idle while i'm in gear, i will either A:stall (manual) or B : roll backwards (automatic) I'm just trying to understand if there's anything behind "THE ABILITY TO START OFF IN SECOND GEAR TO PULL YOUR BOAT OUT OF THE WATER" or if it should be ignored. The reason this catches my attention is, on most 80's and 90's ford trucks w/. automatics, if you put it in "2" on a hill, it engages a one-way clutch that prevents you from rolling backwards. This clutch doesn't engage in 1. I wonder...
Brian , the higher the gear ratio the lower will be the load
on the engine. Applying enough torque to slip the wheels is a function of load and friction. If the ramp surface is dry and well grooved and your tires are good you won't slip the wheels. But if the ramp is wet and covered with green and you tires are slick your wheels will probably slip.
on the engine. Applying enough torque to slip the wheels is a function of load and friction. If the ramp surface is dry and well grooved and your tires are good you won't slip the wheels. But if the ramp is wet and covered with green and you tires are slick your wheels will probably slip.
Not true. My 2001 Toyota Highlander with its 220 HP V-6 and automatic transmission has a button that starts the car out in second when used and the shift selector placed in drive. I also get 15 MPG when towing and don't need to block out overdrive unless in very steep, long mountains drives. IT ALSO GETS 22 MPG WHEN NOT TOWING. Duane Beaver, "Novelman"
1/4 ton pickup
Anything will get up the ramp and get going. You need substance to ensure safe driving down the road where the issue is braking and emergency handling. You need a pickup like a F150 and the trailer should have working brakes.
Anything will get up the ramp and get going. You need substance to ensure safe driving down the road where the issue is braking and emergency handling. You need a pickup like a F150 and the trailer should have working brakes.
additional
Tow vehichles are very important when pulling. Anytime you have a truck whether it is automatic or staight shift, you are engaging the rear axle. You will spin no matter the size engine and/or transmission. You would need to put weight for example over the rear axle. 400-600 pounds would be suffiecint. If you are using a four wheel drive, not a problem as you are engaging both axles and extra weight is not needed.. For you all, take a broom with you to brush away peebles and algae from the ramp as it causes you to slide when pulling upward. It is very helpful on some ramps. One response was to use a freind's truck. However, you could rent a Uhaul, ryder or some other truck with a hitch. Dont say you are pulling a boat out. Do get the insurance offered. I know your boat too well. Crazy Dave Condon I hope this helps as
Tow vehichles are very important when pulling. Anytime you have a truck whether it is automatic or staight shift, you are engaging the rear axle. You will spin no matter the size engine and/or transmission. You would need to put weight for example over the rear axle. 400-600 pounds would be suffiecint. If you are using a four wheel drive, not a problem as you are engaging both axles and extra weight is not needed.. For you all, take a broom with you to brush away peebles and algae from the ramp as it causes you to slide when pulling upward. It is very helpful on some ramps. One response was to use a freind's truck. However, you could rent a Uhaul, ryder or some other truck with a hitch. Dont say you are pulling a boat out. Do get the insurance offered. I know your boat too well. Crazy Dave Condon I hope this helps as
Towing
I agree with Ross, if you just want to tow the boat a couple times a season, why bother with purchase, repairs and insurance? Just rent or borrow a truck. On the other hand, if you want a vehicle that will safely tow your load, take time to weigh the boat and analyze your requirements. More at: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/travel/travel.html
I agree with Ross, if you just want to tow the boat a couple times a season, why bother with purchase, repairs and insurance? Just rent or borrow a truck. On the other hand, if you want a vehicle that will safely tow your load, take time to weigh the boat and analyze your requirements. More at: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/travel/travel.html
George
(sorry to switch topic a bit) On your site, you mention not having a good way to retract the extending tounge. What I do, is block the trailer wheels, leave tuck in neutral / no brake, and use a heavy duty tie-down strap to pull the truck towards the trailer.
(sorry to switch topic a bit) On your site, you mention not having a good way to retract the extending tounge. What I do, is block the trailer wheels, leave tuck in neutral / no brake, and use a heavy duty tie-down strap to pull the truck towards the trailer.
George
George, Thanks for the equalizer information. I spoke with the people you recommended as a source and they are not sure if I need a "pull tongue adapter". I'm awaiting a call from equalizer for the answer. Have you had any trouble using your tongue extension with the equalizer? Thanks...
George, Thanks for the equalizer information. I spoke with the people you recommended as a source and they are not sure if I need a "pull tongue adapter". I'm awaiting a call from equalizer for the answer. Have you had any trouble using your tongue extension with the equalizer? Thanks...
Ditto Equalizer
We have the same setup as George. DO NOT get the "pole adaptor" as it is a pain in the butt and not needed in most instances. You only need it if you have an obstruction, like a trailer jack, in the way. If you do then move the jack back out of the way. We had the adaptor (I thought we needed it) and it is a major hassle in that it is hard to bolt down and it wants to move. Got rid of it and now the Equalizer is terrific. When you get the Equalizer do yourself a favor and park the vehicle and trailer in a nice flat spot and give yourself a couple of hours to thoroughly follow the directions in setting it up. That initial setup is very importnat and will pay off for you from then on.
We have the same setup as George. DO NOT get the "pole adaptor" as it is a pain in the butt and not needed in most instances. You only need it if you have an obstruction, like a trailer jack, in the way. If you do then move the jack back out of the way. We had the adaptor (I thought we needed it) and it is a major hassle in that it is hard to bolt down and it wants to move. Got rid of it and now the Equalizer is terrific. When you get the Equalizer do yourself a favor and park the vehicle and trailer in a nice flat spot and give yourself a couple of hours to thoroughly follow the directions in setting it up. That initial setup is very importnat and will pay off for you from then on.
Class 3 Tow Hitch
Get a vehicle that has the full tow package and a class 3 hitch (up to 5000 lbs), forget the sub compacts. It would be cheaper to hire out twice a year but if you really want independence get a vehicle rated for the job and accept the extra gas costs. Tow Package includes 3.73 axle ratio, transmission cooler & oil cooler, frame integrated tow hitch, and trailering harness wired. It costs a bit more to own one of these vehicles but you never have to rely on anyone but yourself and you can take your boat to many more places on your own.
Get a vehicle that has the full tow package and a class 3 hitch (up to 5000 lbs), forget the sub compacts. It would be cheaper to hire out twice a year but if you really want independence get a vehicle rated for the job and accept the extra gas costs. Tow Package includes 3.73 axle ratio, transmission cooler & oil cooler, frame integrated tow hitch, and trailering harness wired. It costs a bit more to own one of these vehicles but you never have to rely on anyone but yourself and you can take your boat to many more places on your own.
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