Gotta plug the traditionalists: the classic brightwork really shines over good preparation and a quality varnish (epifanes is my go to). To many points already made- Epoxy will break down in UV eventually, but here's the plug-- multiple coats of varnish are akin to your sacrificial zincs-- you have to give the sun something to eat, so it stays off your teak. If you varnish well-- you are cutting your retouch time down significantly as all you need to do is scuff up the top varnish layer and recoat on whatever frequency you need. Varnish is self healing.
Tip I love to employ: sand of course and then 3 coats of Smiths Penetrating epoxy (wood now completely impervious to rot). Then 4-5 coats of epifanes to suit your OCD.
From original to sanded, to smiths to finished:
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