Topside Teak Trim

[morbidfollower]

It's time I finally do some cosmetic upgrade to my 88 and refinish the outside wood. Can it be done by masking off or is complete removal necessary? My boat also does not have the nice wooden handrails, which I have found online and would like to add. I think it helps with the salty look of the boat and gives me something to grab ahold of. Also one of the rails that hold the crib boards in is cracked and will need glued before I refinish so it doesn't keep splitting. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated to this whole endeavor. Thanks!

 

[danooxnard]

When I redid my teak I took it off the boat. It made it much easier to sand and re-varnish. Now that the varnish is good I sand it on the boat once a year and touch up the finish. If I had it to do over again I would not have varnished it but used something different that requires less maintenance. I do love the look of shiny teak though. Dano

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

My boat also does not have the nice wooden handrails, which I have found online and would like to add.

If you are starting from new, look into using clear epoxy and they will look like wet varnish for years. Here's a shot of my transom seats at well over 10 years old :

Requires a very specific application process so search the archives here.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

If you are starting from new, look into using clear epoxy and they will look like wet varnish for years. Here's a shot of my transom seats at well over 10 years old :

View attachment 218750

Requires a very specific application process so search the archives here.

I thought epoxy and UV light don’t mix well.

 

[capta]

Nothing beats the richness and depth of a great varnish job. Most of the time we remove the wood, as it is hard to sand the wood without sanding the surfaces ir is attached to. Often one finds areas that need attention underneath the wood, so it has a two fold benefit. However, it is a great deal of work and maintenance, so be prepared for that.

 

[ShawnL]

I did my crib boards with epoxy and varnish. You are correct that epoxy isn't UV resistant and will yellow and break down over time (not that long really). I sanded down my '72 crib boards until I had raw wood (I think I went to 220) and then did several coats of West Systems epoxy. Then another light sanding and a couple of coats of outdoor-rated spar varnish. The varnish protects the epoxy from UV and 4 years later, I still see no need to touch them up. If I do, a light scuffing and more varnish.

 

[Gene Neill]

Remove it. That way you can re-bed it in the process, which probably needs to be done anyway. Two birds.

Varnish is the most beautiful way to go, no question. If you love to work on your boat for weeks and weeks on end, brushing and sanding, brushing and sanding, brushing and sanding ... definitely use varnish.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I thought epoxy and UV light don’t mix well.

They don't. But then we find out that exterior varnish is an excellent UV inhibitor when applied over the epoxy. Wonder if it could be used as a relatively inexpensive substitute for suntan lotion ?

 

[Jacktar]

Teak oil works real well for both! ha ha

 

[morbidfollower]

Remove it. That way you can re-bed it in the process, which probably needs to be done anyway. Two birds.

Varnish is the most beautiful way to go, no question. If you love to work on your boat for weeks and weeks on end, brushing and sanding, brushing and sanding, brushing and sanding ... definitely use varnish.

How hard is it to remove? Are there any videos out there showing the process?

 

[Gene Neill]

How hard is it to remove? Are there any videos out there showing the process?

Removal is easy. Get some "Bed-It" tape for the reinstall.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

How hard is it to remove?

1. If it's attached from the top, you will see filler plugs.
2. No plugs ? Then it's attached from below.
3. Look for access to the screws from below.

 

[jviss]

1. If it's attached from the top, you will see filler plugs.
2. No plugs ? Then it's attached from below.
3. Look for access to the screws from below.

Might have both, and might have to remove the headliner.

I don't think removing the handrails just to refinish them is a good idea, unless they really need rebedding anyway.

 

[morbidfollower]

If things are easy to take off ill just do that. I don't have the handrails installed yet, so that would be a new install if I decide to get some. I like the look and functionality of them. It must have been an option from the factory as mine doesn't have any

 

[Gene Neill]

Might have both, and might have to remove the headliner.

No headliner in a C22. Ten to one there are no plugs. Ten to one all the brightwork needs bedding.

.

 

[Gene Neill]

If things are easy to take off ill just do that. I don't have the handrails installed yet, so that would be a new install if I decide to get some. I like the look and functionality of them. It must have been an option from the factory as mine doesn't have any

They're great visually but also a nice safety feature, and often a convenient place to tie things to. Did I mention they look great?

 

[morbidfollower]

I have handhold envy...

 

[morbidfollower]

do they get in the way of the pop-top enclosure?

 

[Project_Mayhem]

A few suggestions for low maintenance...
1. Plastic lumber that looks like teak. Check Menards as they have some at reasonable pries where the wood coloring is all the way through. Otherwise, PlasTeak is the name brand for boats. As of last year they no longer sell their product as raw materials, only finished products
2. Teak Oil. Easy application but requires a wipe down of more oil every few weeks
3. TeakGuard is very easy to reapply (don't even need to mask off the fiberglass) but I had mixed results with it. My handrails looked good but my toe rails did not. I suspect it's due to the condition of the wood but I don't know for sure

I can say that Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane has held up well on the partially exposed part of my tiller. Three years running and it looks like the day it dried

@Ralph Johnstone What products did you use?

 

[pclarksurf]

Gotta plug the traditionalists: the classic brightwork really shines over good preparation and a quality varnish (epifanes is my go to). To many points already made- Epoxy will break down in UV eventually, but here's the plug-- multiple coats of varnish are akin to your sacrificial zincs-- you have to give the sun something to eat, so it stays off your teak. If you varnish well-- you are cutting your retouch time down significantly as all you need to do is scuff up the top varnish layer and recoat on whatever frequency you need. Varnish is self healing.

Tip I love to employ: sand of course and then 3 coats of Smiths Penetrating epoxy (wood now completely impervious to rot). Then 4-5 coats of epifanes to suit your OCD.

From original to sanded, to smiths to finished: