Topside paint

[McPhee]

Hey everyone,

I'm searching for the white paint I should put on my cockpit/deck to roughly match. The boat is a 2005 Hunter 33-2. I don't think it's a gel coat because the gel coat repair I did was fairly spongy to the touch, but let me know if I'm wrong.

For context, I have some holes, cracks, and crazing, and thought the cockpit would be a good place to learn to use epoxy. My slip neighbor is familiar with it and has the West System 2-part epoxy and is willing to teach me how to properly fill and sand.

 

[Hollyberry]

The original deck surface will almost certainly be gelcoat - although perhaps someone has redone the nonskid with Kiwi grip or some such.
I've found that today's paint colour scanners do a remarkable job of matching if you have a sample (old cutout, small removeable hatch, etc)

Photos of what you're trying to clean up would be helpful..

btw... (Pedant warning!).. 'topsides' is the term that refers to the parts of the HULL above the waterline, not the deck!

 

[jviss]

Hey everyone,

I'm searching for the white paint I should put on my cockpit/deck to roughly match. The boat is a 2005 Hunter 33-2. I don't think it's a gel coat because the gel coat repair I did was fairly spongy to the touch, but let me know if I'm wrong.

For context, I have some holes, cracks, and crazing, and thought the cockpit would be a good place to learn to use epoxy. My slip neighbor is familiar with it and has the West System 2-part epoxy and is willing to teach me how to properly fill and sand.

"Topside" is not cockpit/deck, it's the part of the hull from the waterline to the gunwale.

 

[dlochner]

the gel coat repair I did was fairly spongy to the touch

What kind of gelcoat did you use, with wax or without wax? Gelcoat won't fully cure and will remain soft until it is cut off from air. If you used gelcoat without wax you will have the experience you have. Try putting some wax over the gelcoat repairs. It should harden up pretty quickly.

It is unlikely the boat was painted at the factory. Gelcoat is a much faster and less expensive finish as it is sprayed into the hull mold before the hull is laid up.

 

[jviss]

Try putting some wax over the gelcoat repairs.

Or cover with plastic wrap and seal the edges with tape. You want to cut off the oxygen.

 

[JamesG161]

Ok here is where you go for HUNTER paints, gel coats etc.

SPECTRUM COLOR

Their search engine will guide for the right color matching too.

Jim...

PS: Their Navy Blue matched perfectly after 18 years of exposure on my boat.

 

[dlochner]

Ok here is where you go for HUNTER paints, gel coats etc.

SPECTRUM COLOR

Their search engine will guide for the right color matching too.

Jim...

PS: Their Navy Blue matched perfectly after 18 years of exposure on my boat.

There are 2 good sources for color matched gelcoat, Spectrum is one and Minicraft is another. Neither is inexpensive, at least for a quart of color matched gelcoat for my boat, Minicraft was about $50 less. Expect to spend around $200 a quart for gelcoat and catalyst. More if you buy styrene thinner.

Minicraft of Florida inc. | McKote Gel Coat "You've been matched"

minicraft.com

 

[JamesG161]

There are 2 good sources for color matched gelcoat

Not Really, if we are referring to Hunter Sailboats

Jim...

PS: Spectrum provided Hunter Marine all of their Gelcoats.

 

[jssailem]

Spectrum provided Hunter Marine all of their Gelcoats.

Consistent with what I have heard from other Hunter owners.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I don't think it's a gel coat because the gel coat repair I did was fairly spongy to the touch, but let me know if I'm wrong.

This was likely because you used unwaxed gel coat as the final coat. You want to use waxed gel coat for the surface coat.

Check the white on your deck and hull. If it's the same white as my 1999 model, it is pure white gel coat and does not require mixing. Keeps the price about $10.00 per pint rather than a small fortune for mixed gel coat (which it isn't). It has a shelf life of more than 8 years if you keep it in the refrigerator rather than the recommended shelf life of 6 months as stated by the supplier. I used all of the first pint up in 8 years. Been chasing spider cracks and small dings for 24 years and can't find the work I've done years ago.

My slip neighbor is familiar with it and has the West System 2-part epoxy and is willing to teach me how to properly fill and sand.

This may not be going in the right direction and you may want to do some reading before investing any money. I've used System Three Silvertip epoxy for protecting exterior wood and according to them, all epoxies must be protected from UV rays or they turn colour. I've accidentally dripped some without knowing it and yes, it turns urine orange after a couple of years without UV protection. West System says the same thing regarding protection from UV :

Finish Coatings | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Finish coatings are essential to extending the life of the epoxy moisture barrier, providing a stable base and a finish that endures.

www.westsystem.com

If you're going to use epoxy for repairs, this is reserved for deep damage with a final layer of gel coat. It sounds like you are only going for spider cracks, dings, and gouges. These are done with gel coat only where the damage is limited to 1/16" or less.

Here are my stern seats with five coats of Silvertip epoxy and three coats of exterior gloss varnish and ten years old. Covered when not in use but they still see plenty of sunlight and no deterioration :

 

[JamesG161]

Spectrum provided Hunter Marine all of their Gelcoats.

My boat's exact matched Gel Coat Hunter Blue 1998.

Before.

After.

Jim...

PS: Their White Gelcoat matched too.

 

[JamesG161]

This the real Before picture after damage repairs.

Well done by my boat yard.

Jim...

 

[McPhee]

This was likely because you used unwaxed gel coat as the final coat. You want to use waxed gel coat for the surface coat.

Check the white on your deck and hull. If it's the same white as my 1999 model, it is pure white gel coat and does not require mixing. Keeps the price about $10.00 per pint rather than a small fortune for mixed gel coat (which it isn't). It has a shelf life of more than 8 years if you keep it in the refrigerator rather than the recommended shelf life of 6 months as stated by the supplier. I used all of the first pint up in 8 years. Been chasing spider cracks and small dings for 24 years and can't find the work I've done years ago.



This may not be going in the right direction and you may want to do some reading before investing any money. I've used System Three Silvertip epoxy for protecting exterior wood and according to them, all epoxies must be protected from UV rays or they turn colour. I've accidentally dripped some without knowing it and yes, it turns urine orange after a couple of years without UV protection. West System says the same thing regarding protection from UV :

Finish Coatings | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Finish coatings are essential to extending the life of the epoxy moisture barrier, providing a stable base and a finish that endures.

www.westsystem.com

If you're going to use epoxy for repairs, this is reserved for deep damage with a final layer of gel coat. It sounds like you are only going for spider cracks, dings, and gouges. These are done with gel coat only where the damage is limited to 1/16" or less.

Here are my stern seats with five coats of Silvertip epoxy and three coats of exterior gloss varnish and ten years old. Covered when not in use but they still see plenty of sunlight and no deterioration :

View attachment 217902

Thanks, this is great information. I do believe it's plain white, so I can buy some and test it on a small, unnoticeable area first.

Regarding your stern rail seats, those are gorgeous! I sanded mine down and applied 3 coats of teak oil, and 4 coats of varnish. I think your epoxy repair gives them a much smoother finish than mine. Did you take each teak board off, dip it, and re-attach them?

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Did you take each teak board off, dip it, and re-attach them?

Exactly, almost. Removed each teak strip and gave it five coats of System Three Silvertip clear epoxy and three varnish on the topside and one varnish on the bottom. The real trick is to seal the back where the screws go into the teak's pilot holes. I used GE Marine silicone (all right you purists, settle down, settle down !) as the silicone was going to be sealed off from the elements and UV.

Gave my companionway steps the same treatment but used lightweight glass cloth on the top surface. Interesting in that glass cloth and System Three Silvertip clear epoxy have the same refractive index so the cloth disappears in the epoxy resin.

These are about 10 years old without a touchup. Considering touching up the varnish this winter as it's losing some of its gloss. The epoxy is there for the life of the boat.