Topping Lift, Reefing and Main Adjustments?

Ray Bowles · May 31, 2013

There are many different ways to reef. The main idea to always keep in mind is "that when you think of reefing do it right then!"
I take up the boom weight and height with my topping lift first. I also have a topping lift that is simply a line that I pull and lock.
I then lower the main halyard until the mainsail clew is lower that the boom and the new tack should also be at boom height. You can hook the new tack on the rams horn at the front of the boom if so equiped. If not, secure the new tack to the boom and pull it as tightly forward toward the gooseneck as possible with a piece of line. I use 1/2 inch nylon webbing that I also use for sail ties.
The mainsail clew should be pulled down tightly to the boom and also pulled rearward and secured with 1/2 inch webbing or line. The sail should be tight forward and aft.
The mainsail is now secured front and rear to the boom. Secure the extra mainsail material to the boom with extra ties if your sail has eyes in it for this purpose.
Raise the main halyard, lower the topping lift and sail away.
Ray

Bill Roosa · May 31, 2013

Most mainsails are cut so the tack angle is less than 90 degrees so when you slack the halyard the boom drops automagically when you slack the main and tightens as you raise it. Now if you set the topping lift low enough to keep the boom out of the binini/dodger but not so high as to keep the leach from tightening when the halyard is tightened the topping lift adjustment is not needed. The topping lift slacks automagically when you raise the main and tightens automagically when you drop the main.
Soooo
slack the halyard the correct amount, tighten the reef lines, tighten the halyard and you are done.
This does not work on mainsails with tack angles of 90 or more BTW and you have to adjust the topping lift in those cases. This is an important point if you get the clew reef tight and the tack reef loose as that causes the tack angle to be greater. if you have this situation then a tight tack reef and looser clew reef are the way to go to maintain the tack angle at less than 90 degrees.

All U Get · Jun 1, 2013

Ward H said:
I have read many threads about reefing procedures but I feel I am missing something. Not in the water yet so I can't practice so thought I would ask here.

I will have my topping lift adjustable so I can raise the boom when the main is down and drop the boom a little when I am ready to raise the main.

Thanks

Hi Ward,

On our Catalina 30 I would raise the main and remove the topping lift so it wouldn't chafe the leach of the main. The first time I went to reef, the main and boom came down in the cockpit obscuring the view of the helmsman. Wind blowing, sail flogging, owner cussing, not pretty. I always remembered to fasten the topping lift after that.
On our Pearson I added a rigid vang to support the boom along with the adjustable topping lift. That makes reefing easier.
When traveling and running with the wind and waves, I usually put in a reef before I raise the main unless 5-10 kts are predicted. Along the NJ coast we started that way but by the time we got to NYC it was gusting 25-30. We didn't drop the main until the East River when those taxi/helicopters were down-winding us. Not pretty but we got the main down doing 11 kts with the flow. Hope you do better than us.

All U Get

RichH · Jun 1, 2013

The two purposes of the topping lift is to counteract the weight of the boom and the weight of the sail OR to prevent the boom from dropping into the cockpit when the sail is being lowered (or raised). It makes no diff. whether reefed or not.

As mentioned, the angle that the sail/ top-of-boom makes with the mast is usually slightly less than 90 degrees. So, when raising (whether for full up or for reefing) if the topping lift can hold the boom at less than that ~90°, you wont have to also lift the weight of the boom. Important on boats with heavy booms.

When raising especially, and if the topping lift control line is mounted AT near the mast and (usually) the control line is run to a horn cleat .... dont release the line from the cleat when raising / lowering, but pull additional line so that the aft of the boom raises (a foot or two) and then cleat the line over the original 'cleat knot''; raise the sail, and when finished with tensions etc adjustments .... simply loosen/remove the 'second' cleat knot to allow the boom aft end to drop. You can 'pre-adjust' the 'first' cleat knot on the topping lift control line so that the topping lift is always 'somewhat' slack when the sail is fully raised.

When reefing, just pull the topping lift line so that the boom aft end rises, lower the sail to it reefing position, etc. (and with boom aft end higher than 'normal') raise the sail, complete the reef , etc. and when all is completed release that second 'cleat knot' and the boom will go back to 'normal' position ... because you didnt untie that original 'cleat knot'. Tying in the reef with the boom aft end raised a bit is easier ... as youll be 'tying-in' and re-raising the sail with the foot of the sail 'somewhat relaxed'

The only time you should apply tension to the topping lift for sailing is when in super light wind conditions to relieve or compensate for the weight of the boom that is pulling down on the sail and the weight is adversely changing the 'shape' of the sail - most simply dont bother doing this, as its a 'racing technique'.

;-)

Paul F · Jun 1, 2013

Ward, I think you have the right method down. Tighten the topping lift, reef and then loosen the topping lift. To make reefing easier and faster I have changed two things on my rig that may work for you. First, a S-binder is used to attach the luff cringle to the jiffy reef hook. This is much easier and quicker than trying to fit the sail cringle over the jiffy reefing hook. Second only one line with a hook at the end is used to control the leech. This line is one of the existing lines fed through the boom. It is hooked to the leech cringle and simply cleated off at the mast end of the boom. a separate line is tied through the cringle and around the boom pulling the cringle tight to the boom. This line is much like the other reefing mid-sail lines. But in this case the line is drawn tight to the boom not loose, as the midlines should be. Also when moving to the next reef higher up the sail this leech cringle line is left tied to the boom. I carry a number of aprox. ¼" lines tied to the cabin top rail for this and other “need to tie quickly” purposes. If another reef is needed the hook is taken and moved higher up the sail. I find this simplifed system much easier to use without all the tangled lines. It has the benefit of no lines when the reefs are not used as the leach line hook is attached to the boom when not in use. With our boat's relatively short boom this one line system works well. It likely would not work as well with longer booms.

rardiH36 · Jun 1, 2013

Good replies by all on this thread. As usual, RichH gives lots of excellent explanation.

I would just like to "second" the usefulness of the topping lift when raising and tensioning the mainsail. I discovered this about one year after I bought my current (and first) boat and wondered why no matter how much tension I put on the halyard with the winch, my mainsail luff rope at the lower 1/3 or so just wouldn't get taught enough to resist scalloping when the wind picked up ... even with ample application of sailkote lube. It was as RichH mentioned the added friction of the plastic luff slugs against the mast track which where being pulled out and away from the mast track by the weight of the boom. Solution for me was to mark my topping lift adjustment at a level so that after I raise my mainsail and tension the luff, when the topping lift is subsequently slackened, the boom drops a few inches. Therefore, when raising/tensioning the mainsail, the luff slugs only need to go in a vertical direction with no pulling away friction against the track. I can hoist my mainsail (43' luff) all the way to the top by hand from the cockpit without much effort. Then do final tension with the cabin top winch.

Notwithstanding how much of an improvement this "discovery" allowed, I did rig a cunningham to my sail/mast. But that only applies to a full up main. Not to a reefed one.

Brian D · Jun 2, 2013

I am going to move this over to our Sail Trim section. Don Guillette is our residential sail trim expert. It should get more visibility there.

All U Get · Jun 3, 2013

Brian D said:
I am going to move this over to our Sail Trim section. Don Guillette is our residential sail trim expert. It should get more visibility there.

Thanks Brian,

I've been tossed about getting rid of the topping lift because of some other issues, but reading Rich's response puts it back on the table. For those that know me having a "Fool proof method" only underestimates my creativity.

I'll be taking the broken parts back to my sail-maker.

All U Get

bffatcat · Jun 3, 2013

Reefing

Everyone has their own system that works for them This comment is to answer the poster that has a boat size in the mid 20`s My system works It takes less than 5 minutes for me to put a reef in. First I do not touch the topping lift. 2 I ease the main sail so its luffed up
3 I have a line tied into the reefing cringle and I pull it down to the boom and tie it off on a cleat I installed on the boom for just that purpose. I dont use a hook to much fiddling for me 3 I pull the main halyard back up so the luff is taught. 4 and finally I pull the reefer leach line down until its tight on the boom and cleat it off thats it. The dead area is just hanging. If you want to tie off the points thats up to you

Indysailor · Jun 4, 2013

Don't forget to fix your sail track stop to your mast with about a foot of line. Or buy 2-3 extra ones.

marujo.sortudo · Jun 5, 2013

Boats vary, but for us in a seaway where we could roll and thrash the boom around a good bit while reefing, hauling the topping lift way in so the boom is cocked up helps keep it under control while reefing by holding it centered by virtue of its weight. Not as useful in protected waters, of course.