tongue weight on a 240

[Bocamo]

I recently purchased a 240 on the original OEM trailer and the tongue weight is so severe that trailering faster than 55 mph resulted in severe fish tailing. I redistributed as much weight as I could to the back of the boat and that helped a bit but it looks like I'll need to move the trainer winch pedestal aft. At first glance it appears that there is about 6" up to the tongue extension pin.

The axle is about 7" forward of the aft sling point and the lifeline stanchion is just forward of the axle.

Has anyone else had a problem/solution like this?

 

[Benny17441]

Your tongue weight should be 15% of the total weight of boat and trailer. That tongue weight should be attained with the trailer parallel to the ground on a flat surface. The tongue weight can be increased by dropping the ball or decreased by raising same. If minor adjustments of 3 to 4 inches do not get you to the desired tongue weight then either the load needs to be moved or the position of the axles adjusted. I would start by moving the boat back some if you want to lighten the tongue weight. Hopefully you may not need to relocate the axels.

 

[Rick Webb]

Not that Simple

the bunks are shaped to accomedate the hull and support the weight around the ballast tank. Usually the more tounge weight the better check all the other posibilities.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Benny pretty much summed up the situation but the manufactures and safety personnel over the years have suggested that 10% of the totla wieght of the trailer and boat be on the tongue.

However, Your trailer should have trailer surge brakes. If so and they are not working, then get them fixed as braking will stop that. Sometimes the master cylinder in the brake actuator may be bad but can be purchased for around $65 vs. buying the entire brake actuator for $275. It could be air in the lines, little brake fluid, etc... If no brakes on the trailer, then get them. They can be added to that axle.

Crazy Dave Condon

 

[Dan Johnson]

Tongue weight...

Moving weight to the back of the boat will only accentuate the sway problem. Years of towing race cars and boats taught me to position the weight over the axles as best possible. Putting weight to the rear to lighten tongue weight is just begging for trouble--as you found out with the fish-tailing at 55 mph.

To get the true weight, take your rig to a commercial weight station--a moving company or junk yard usually will weigh you for a fee or even free. Weigh the whole rig then just the trailer. After that you'll know what the 10% should be on the hitch ball and then follow both Benny's and Dave's advice.

Check your brake actuation set-up to see if someone has pinned the piston (on trailers with surge brakes it is usually necessary to do so in order to be able to back it up without the brakes engaging).

 

[bmorr]

Moving weight to the back of the boat will only accentuate the sway problem. Years of towing race cars and boats taught me to position the weight over the axles as best possible. Putting weight to the rear to lighten tongue weight is just begging for trouble--as you found out with the fish-tailing at 55 mph.

To get the true weight, take your rig to a commercial weight station--a moving company or junk yard usually will weigh you for a fee or even free. Weigh the whole rig then just the trailer. After that you'll know what the 10% should be on the hitch ball and then follow both Benny's and Dave's advice.

Check your brake actuation set-up to see if someone has pinned the piston (on trailers with surge brakes it is usually necessary to do so in order to be able to back it up without the brakes engaging).

Another thought, check the air in your tow vehicle and trailer tires. Under inflation will tend to induce more sway problems