We have a Groco model HF hand toilet. After commissioning this year no water will enter the tank when we try to wet flush. It was operating fine last fall. Any thoughts?
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J
Jim Rushing
rebuild time
either buy a new pump assemble or find a used one and rebuild it. every spring changed out the pump assembly and rebuild the old one and store it away for next spring. this way you have new valves each spring.
either buy a new pump assemble or find a used one and rebuild it. every spring changed out the pump assembly and rebuild the old one and store it away for next spring. this way you have new valves each spring.
B
Bill
I had same thing
Hers's what I did, when the same thing happened to my Groco, same model. First, I bought Peggy's book and read it thru--great read. Then, I ordered a rebuild kit from Groco. Then, disassembling the pump, I found that the rubber valve at the intake for wet flush had ripped, so pumping was to no avail. Cleaned the unit and hoses (elected to replace some), replaced parts with those in rebuild kit, lubricated per Peggy's instructions, and it's as good as new. Good luck.
Hers's what I did, when the same thing happened to my Groco, same model. First, I bought Peggy's book and read it thru--great read. Then, I ordered a rebuild kit from Groco. Then, disassembling the pump, I found that the rubber valve at the intake for wet flush had ripped, so pumping was to no avail. Cleaned the unit and hoses (elected to replace some), replaced parts with those in rebuild kit, lubricated per Peggy's instructions, and it's as good as new. Good luck.
D
Don
Groco HF
The Groco HF is probably the simplest head made. 90% of all problems are due to the flapper valve assembly that is under the rectangular plate on the pump assembly. Takes about 10 minutes to change and cost is about $15 from WM. BTW, never put any bleach in the head, it makes the valves swell and stick. The voice of experience.
The Groco HF is probably the simplest head made. 90% of all problems are due to the flapper valve assembly that is under the rectangular plate on the pump assembly. Takes about 10 minutes to change and cost is about $15 from WM. BTW, never put any bleach in the head, it makes the valves swell and stick. The voice of experience.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Annual rebuild isn't necessary
Unless you want to spend $500 over 10 years to keep a $150 toilet working. Even a $100 Jabsco doesn't need it THAT often. The most important thing you can do for any manual toilet is keep it well lubricated, 'cuz without lubrication, the rubber parts wear out much faster. A toilet that is kept well lubricated shouldn't require rebuilding more often than once every 4-5 years. Marine toilets have seals and valves and other parts that wear, and as they wear the toilet becomes less and less efficient. When boats sit for days, the seals and valves dry out and stick to the inside of their housings; dried salt makes them stick even better, and also is abrasive, so pumping a manual toilet without adequate lubrication wears the seals and scratches the inside of the pump cylinder. Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life.
Unless you want to spend $500 over 10 years to keep a $150 toilet working. Even a $100 Jabsco doesn't need it THAT often. The most important thing you can do for any manual toilet is keep it well lubricated, 'cuz without lubrication, the rubber parts wear out much faster. A toilet that is kept well lubricated shouldn't require rebuilding more often than once every 4-5 years. Marine toilets have seals and valves and other parts that wear, and as they wear the toilet becomes less and less efficient. When boats sit for days, the seals and valves dry out and stick to the inside of their housings; dried salt makes them stick even better, and also is abrasive, so pumping a manual toilet without adequate lubrication wears the seals and scratches the inside of the pump cylinder. Many people just wait till the toilet starts to squeak and become hard to pump, then pour some mineral oil or vegetable oil down it. Not only is this very hard on the toilet, but it’s a never-ending job because anything poured down the toilet washes out in just a few flushes. Why is it hard on the toilet? Because a toilet doesn’t squeak unless it needs lubrication; that squeaking is the sound of seals rubbing against the inside of the housing, being worn away. Waiting till it squeaks to lubricate it is like waiting till an engine starts to smoke to add oil. Ever wondered why a new toilet doesn’t need any lubrication for at least a year? It’s because every toilet leaves the factory slathered with thick Teflon grease that takes a full season or more to be flushed out. Replacing it just once a year is all it takes to keep a toilet pumping smoothly. And it’s only a 15 minute job—just open up the top of the pump and put a healthy squirt of it into it…pump the toilet a few times to get it all through the pump, and you’re “good to go” for the entire season. And, by keeping the pump lubricated this way, you extend the life of the seals and valves, reducing the need for rebuilds. The best time to lubricate a toilet is in the fall, as part of winterizing. The Teflon grease protects the rubber parts in the toilet from drying out, which also extends their life.
Check the inlet
Don't know how you stored the boat over the winter but mine was on land and after comissioning the head didn't work. After rebuilding the pump it still didn't work. I then disconnected the inlet line and got only a very weak flow. I then blew some air into the hose and got a flood of water. So be close to the seacock when you do this. Don't know what the blockage was but the head works fine now.
Don't know how you stored the boat over the winter but mine was on land and after comissioning the head didn't work. After rebuilding the pump it still didn't work. I then disconnected the inlet line and got only a very weak flow. I then blew some air into the hose and got a flood of water. So be close to the seacock when you do this. Don't know what the blockage was but the head works fine now.
L
Lauraine '85 C30 "Chalice"
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Les Murray
Rebuild and Lube
My first season with my boat I had the same problem. The PO had the boat on the hard for about 18 months, so the head was pretty dried out. Rebuilt the pump and it worked fine after that. I have since replaced my head with a Raritan PHII. Things are much better now. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
My first season with my boat I had the same problem. The PO had the boat on the hard for about 18 months, so the head was pretty dried out. Rebuilt the pump and it worked fine after that. I have since replaced my head with a Raritan PHII. Things are much better now. Les Murray s/v Ceilidh '86 C-36 #560
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Vic "Seven"
Same problem I had this week with my HF ....
... got the two parts out of a $5 cam upgrade kit ... at Newport Nautical Supply ... WM didn't have a thing in stock for Grocco and it looked like all WM wanted to carry was complete $60 rebuild kits. All I replaced was the spring HF26 and the Gasket HF1 ... Used a 5/16 socket driver to take the six screws off the raw water cover ... took total of 10 minutes to do job. Pump works better than new. The new "gasket" , which has the two valve flappers on it, actually tells you which side is up and out. The replacement spring is stronger. Of course last year the same thing happened in Florida ... pump didn't pump ... and it was a dumb mud wasp nest in the raw water intake. Had to shove a number 6 wire down the intake hose. Each year you learn something new.
... got the two parts out of a $5 cam upgrade kit ... at Newport Nautical Supply ... WM didn't have a thing in stock for Grocco and it looked like all WM wanted to carry was complete $60 rebuild kits. All I replaced was the spring HF26 and the Gasket HF1 ... Used a 5/16 socket driver to take the six screws off the raw water cover ... took total of 10 minutes to do job. Pump works better than new. The new "gasket" , which has the two valve flappers on it, actually tells you which side is up and out. The replacement spring is stronger. Of course last year the same thing happened in Florida ... pump didn't pump ... and it was a dumb mud wasp nest in the raw water intake. Had to shove a number 6 wire down the intake hose. Each year you learn something new.
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