Toilet pump switch problem

[heath18703]

Hey everybody. First time trying to pump the toilet this spring on my '92 Hunter 27 after the below freezing winter here in Kentucky, and I'm having a problem with the switch that gets you from 'wet bowl' to 'dry bowl.' With the switch in wet bowl position (left) the toilet fills up with lake water when pumped like it's always done before. But when the switch is moved over into the evacuate position labeled dry bowl (to the right), when pumped the toilet only continues to fill up with water. What I noticed is that when I try to push the switch over to the right into the dry bowl position it doesn't fully seat; my impression is that something internally is stopping it. If memory serves me correctly before the switch would move all the way to the right until it was stopped by the light colored switch casing. Here it is after moving it as far into the dry bowl position as it will go, which is about 3/8" short of it's previous movement...

So I'm all ears as to what you guys think might be causing this. I'm hoping something has made it's way into the tubing and is stopping the switch from completing it's travel. This would probably be the simplest fix. But as I've never seen this before I thought I should ask around before I dove into anything.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Rick D]

You're doomed. It's internal. There is a flapper valve underneath that is actuated by a cam which is likely the problem. You can get a rebuild kit or 'upgrade' to a current pump assembly which will fit your base. Your pump is quite rebuildable (unlike the newer ones which have a more delicate screw seating arrangement). However, for the cost of a rebuild kit, it's likely you could get a new pump assembly.

 

[Chris Patterson]

True words, Mr. D.

Close your seacocks, and take out those six screws and you will most likely see the problem. That little "valve assembly" is kind of flimsy, and prone to destruction.
Sometimes you can just clean it and reassemble it. While you have the plunger out, go ahead and slather it up thick with teflon grease. You can't use too much, the excess will go through it eventually..

(This is VERY SIMPLE).

 

[rpell1@msn.com]

Hi Guys,
I had the same problem and did the re-build (not difficult at all), then the next season the problem started to return. I opened it up and instead of Teflon grease (which I didn't have), I used Vaseline on all the rubber parts. It works beautifully for a season then do it again. So far, I'm on my 4th season of doing this. Good Luck.

True words, Mr. D.

Close your seacocks, and take out those six screws and you will most likely see the problem. That little "valve assembly" is kind of flimsy, and prone to destruction.
Sometimes you can just clean it and reassemble it. While you have the plunger out, go ahead and slather it up thick with teflon grease. You can't use too much, the excess will go through it eventually..

(This is VERY SIMPLE).

 

[Bill Roosa]

be careful installing the screws back into the plastic pieces. they have cut a groove that you MUST use. Exactly like metal threads! If you don't the plastic will crack and you get to buy a new one. if you rotate the screw CCW (unscrew direction) while gently pushing on it you will feel it engage the threads.
there should be a repair kit with the rubber valve parts also.

 

[heath18703]

Good then, sounds like this can be taken care of pretty quick. Can anyone tell by the picture what model pump assembly I have? Wondering what exact rebuild kit I should be looking for.

Also, what's a good online marine supplier?

 

[DAVA390]

Online marine supply I always start here first.