Toe rail
- Thread starter rblevens
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ok well all i need to know is how much you want, your welcome to whatever you need, obviously add some extra to allow you to make a final cut decision. And then just let me know where you want it sent, and how you want it sent. With something like this i think ground is the only way to go but its your call, i will message you the cost of shipping. Hubbardo if you still want some of it your welcome to it, maybe you want to chip in on shipping with blevens, but anyway let me know its ready to go in my backyard
hey rick, just dropped it off at the post office, sorry it took so long it seems like the only time i had free till now was evenings and sundays when they were closed. I had some real funny looks when i brought in a huge hunk of metal and started cutting up boxes and wrapping with tape haha. You can send the $20 postage to :
Mike Dhillon
625 Rollingdale rd.
Annapolis MD 21401
Mike Dhillon
625 Rollingdale rd.
Annapolis MD 21401
I'm glad it was a match, hope to see ya down here sometime. Annapolis has plenty of quiet coves and cold beers......
Use 5200 for toe rail.
I don't often disagree with Ed S, nor he with me, but I must differ with him on the use of butyl tape for the toerail of all things. I would consider it under winches and halyard stoppers; but that's about it. The strength of 5200 is too well known and the stuff is too widely used (and too easily used) to have any reason to second-guess it.
My toerail is 37 years old and does not leak a drop. It's down with (37-year-old) 5200. Conversely the Raider 33s were assembled with butyl tape (as my Uncle Joe hated messy things like 5200 and epoxy) and all of them leaked at the hull/deck joint. You simply cannot put the necessary torque on the bolts against butyl tape the way you can with 75-percent-cured (3-4-day-old) 5200. The butyl tape will continue to squeeze out till you've got none in it left.
Also, because of its permanent flexibility, it does not lend the necessary strength to this crucial installation. You may end up with some loose areas (like under where your lead blocks go) while other places appear rock-solid. The flexibility will enable it to work slightly more than it would with 5200, admitting leaks and causing you to discover places where you need to further tighten the bolts (till it all squeezes out).
And, if you care to bolt your shrouds through the toerail (as mine are) some day, the butyl tape entirely negates the whole benefit of using the entire length of aluminum toerail as a kind of sturdy backing girder to handle the tensile stress of the rigging. Perhaps if you never sail the boat hard, you might not notice as much detriment as my doom-and-gloom concerns may suggest (and I call it 'prudent pessimism', the mark of a sensible skipper). But that's a little like restoring a car and then telling yourself it's all right so long as you never go over 55 MPH.
I don't often disagree with Ed S, nor he with me, but I must differ with him on the use of butyl tape for the toerail of all things. I would consider it under winches and halyard stoppers; but that's about it. The strength of 5200 is too well known and the stuff is too widely used (and too easily used) to have any reason to second-guess it.
My toerail is 37 years old and does not leak a drop. It's down with (37-year-old) 5200. Conversely the Raider 33s were assembled with butyl tape (as my Uncle Joe hated messy things like 5200 and epoxy) and all of them leaked at the hull/deck joint. You simply cannot put the necessary torque on the bolts against butyl tape the way you can with 75-percent-cured (3-4-day-old) 5200. The butyl tape will continue to squeeze out till you've got none in it left.
Also, because of its permanent flexibility, it does not lend the necessary strength to this crucial installation. You may end up with some loose areas (like under where your lead blocks go) while other places appear rock-solid. The flexibility will enable it to work slightly more than it would with 5200, admitting leaks and causing you to discover places where you need to further tighten the bolts (till it all squeezes out).
And, if you care to bolt your shrouds through the toerail (as mine are) some day, the butyl tape entirely negates the whole benefit of using the entire length of aluminum toerail as a kind of sturdy backing girder to handle the tensile stress of the rigging. Perhaps if you never sail the boat hard, you might not notice as much detriment as my doom-and-gloom concerns may suggest (and I call it 'prudent pessimism', the mark of a sensible skipper). But that's a little like restoring a car and then telling yourself it's all right so long as you never go over 55 MPH.
rblevens:
I am wondering how you are going to tie in the section of toe rail to the existing toe rail? I have thought on how to repair the one on our 25, and I have thought taking it maybe to a welder and having him tig weld the crap out of it, but I'd be worried of snapping it off when installing.
Any way you could enlighten me on the process?
Redbeard, you still have that 16 foot section? (Hubbardo and I are partners in the boat)..
I am wondering how you are going to tie in the section of toe rail to the existing toe rail? I have thought on how to repair the one on our 25, and I have thought taking it maybe to a welder and having him tig weld the crap out of it, but I'd be worried of snapping it off when installing.
Any way you could enlighten me on the process?
Redbeard, you still have that 16 foot section? (Hubbardo and I are partners in the boat)..
I have an old school body shop lined up... They are going to weld in the new piece...we are going to hammer and dolly the whole thing... Then we will prep and paint the whole thing in a similar color to the patina that is already on it. If it is welded correct it won't break... RB
Yeah I decided to hold onto them in case anybody else needed some. Your welcome to it, however the max length for shipping could become an issue USPS may have said it was 140" but i could be off on that figure.
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