I am a new owner of a re-born O'Day 25. However, there are some leaks which need to be corrected. The major leak is from one of the teak toe rails on the starbord side. Questions: 1)are the rails attached by screws or bolts, 2)If screws, should one seal the opening by filling the previous screw hole with caulk and insering the new screw, 3) if bolts, the bolts seem to terminate in the void between the liner (?)and the hull since they cannot be seen below decks. Suggestions from anyone with information on this issue would be most welcome.. JP
Toe rail leak O'Day 25..Correction
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Mine are attached with stainless steel screws...
...the heads of which are hidden under teak bungs in the toerail. It looks as if I have leaks as well and will be replacing one of my starboard toerails due to damage. I too am interested in the proper method of sealing the screws.
...the heads of which are hidden under teak bungs in the toerail. It looks as if I have leaks as well and will be replacing one of my starboard toerails due to damage. I too am interested in the proper method of sealing the screws.
Wood screws
I talked to Rudy at D & R Marine about the toe rails. He used to work for Oday, so I take his word. He said the toe rails are fastened by wood screws. He also offers replacement rails if you need them. The link is attached.
I talked to Rudy at D & R Marine about the toe rails. He used to work for Oday, so I take his word. He said the toe rails are fastened by wood screws. He also offers replacement rails if you need them. The link is attached.
Leaking toe rails
I haven't had that problem as of yet on my 222, but if I did I would take my toe rail off and use a good grade of regular boat caulking and screw it back on. Don't use silicone caulking though. Get some 3M or Boat-Life caulking. Be careful when you take the bungs out. You don't want to spoil the shape of the hole for when you glue the new bungs back in. Check out a book called Boat Carpentry by Hervey Garrett Smith for ideas on removing and replacing bungs. The book is probably at your library and is kind of dated and old. They've come up with better glues since this book came out. Are you absolutely sure that the toe rail is leaking, and not the gunwale strip? I know for a fact that the toe rails and even the companionway hatch moldings are screwed in with SS screws, because I've had mine off. There is one other thing that I should remind you of, that will save you a lot of grief; certain hull cleaning products contain Oxalic Acid that can eat away caulking. You're better off not using them on your deck. One of my boating books with helpful hints, says you can use any type of household cleanser that contains Oxalic Acid to remove stains in fiberglass gel coat, and it's true. What they fail to say is that it also eats out the caulking on your boat. I think I'd rather have a dirty boat that don't leak. good luck!
I haven't had that problem as of yet on my 222, but if I did I would take my toe rail off and use a good grade of regular boat caulking and screw it back on. Don't use silicone caulking though. Get some 3M or Boat-Life caulking. Be careful when you take the bungs out. You don't want to spoil the shape of the hole for when you glue the new bungs back in. Check out a book called Boat Carpentry by Hervey Garrett Smith for ideas on removing and replacing bungs. The book is probably at your library and is kind of dated and old. They've come up with better glues since this book came out. Are you absolutely sure that the toe rail is leaking, and not the gunwale strip? I know for a fact that the toe rails and even the companionway hatch moldings are screwed in with SS screws, because I've had mine off. There is one other thing that I should remind you of, that will save you a lot of grief; certain hull cleaning products contain Oxalic Acid that can eat away caulking. You're better off not using them on your deck. One of my boating books with helpful hints, says you can use any type of household cleanser that contains Oxalic Acid to remove stains in fiberglass gel coat, and it's true. What they fail to say is that it also eats out the caulking on your boat. I think I'd rather have a dirty boat that don't leak. good luck!
25 toe rail leaks
I have a 26 which is the later version of the 25. Its toe rails were screwed in with ss wood screws. My toe rails were so damaged from neglect that I replaced them with HDPE. As to sealant, I would not use 5200, even though boat manufacturers do. It is too hard to deal with if you have to go back and redo. Try using NP-1 available at professional roofing supplies. It does work very well for sealing above waterline seams on boats. Get the white and be generous, you have an old boat and no point of it being old and leaky.
I have a 26 which is the later version of the 25. Its toe rails were screwed in with ss wood screws. My toe rails were so damaged from neglect that I replaced them with HDPE. As to sealant, I would not use 5200, even though boat manufacturers do. It is too hard to deal with if you have to go back and redo. Try using NP-1 available at professional roofing supplies. It does work very well for sealing above waterline seams on boats. Get the white and be generous, you have an old boat and no point of it being old and leaky.
Teak Toe Rails
I've got a '76 ODay 25' and my toe rails were in bad shape when I got the boat 2 years ago. Yes, they are held on by SS wood screws under the bungs in the rails. I was able to take off the original rails and rework them. The trick I learned to get out the old bungs was to use a wood screw to slowly screw into the center of the old bung and when the tip hits the head of the SS Screw below, the threads pull out the old bung. Note that on some boats the original screws were held in place with epoxy so you may need to clear that off before you can get the old screw out. Once the rails were repaired, I put them back on with the 3M 5200. Since this area was a major source of very annoying leaks into the cabin, as an extra precaution, I ran a small bead of clear silicone around the base of the rail and repeat this each spring. The cabin has been dry ever since.
I've got a '76 ODay 25' and my toe rails were in bad shape when I got the boat 2 years ago. Yes, they are held on by SS wood screws under the bungs in the rails. I was able to take off the original rails and rework them. The trick I learned to get out the old bungs was to use a wood screw to slowly screw into the center of the old bung and when the tip hits the head of the SS Screw below, the threads pull out the old bung. Note that on some boats the original screws were held in place with epoxy so you may need to clear that off before you can get the old screw out. Once the rails were repaired, I put them back on with the 3M 5200. Since this area was a major source of very annoying leaks into the cabin, as an extra precaution, I ran a small bead of clear silicone around the base of the rail and repeat this each spring. The cabin has been dry ever since.
Toerail leak O'Day 25
Thanks to all for the responses to my issue of a leak believed to be due to the toerail. Joe suggested it may be the gunwale strip, and this is not unlikely. I have been in and out of town, visitors (Florida in winter, especially this winter, can make one quite popular)and other distractions give me an excuse for not following up on the many suggestions posted. However, what must be done must be done, so I will begin tomorrow to determine the exact location of the leaks and plot a course of action. When I have things under control, I will report back on what and how I succeeded. Again, thanks to all for your suggetions.What a great organization!!!
Thanks to all for the responses to my issue of a leak believed to be due to the toerail. Joe suggested it may be the gunwale strip, and this is not unlikely. I have been in and out of town, visitors (Florida in winter, especially this winter, can make one quite popular)and other distractions give me an excuse for not following up on the many suggestions posted. However, what must be done must be done, so I will begin tomorrow to determine the exact location of the leaks and plot a course of action. When I have things under control, I will report back on what and how I succeeded. Again, thanks to all for your suggetions.What a great organization!!!
Toerail leak is really rubrail leak
The leak I believed to be from the toe rail was actually a leak from the rub rail. After cauking the rubrail where it contacted the boat, and reseating all of the screws, the leak is no more. Thanks for the idea, Joe....
The leak I believed to be from the toe rail was actually a leak from the rub rail. After cauking the rubrail where it contacted the boat, and reseating all of the screws, the leak is no more. Thanks for the idea, Joe....
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