We will be doing a "from the ground up" restoration on our 1983 Hunter 30 at the end of the 2006 season and decided to start making a list early. Does any one know if we will need a jig while removing the toe rail from the boat or can we put the bolts back in as we remove the toe rail to maintain alignment.
- Status
just bolt it down as you go
start in the back and work to your left put one in at a time and work to the bow it will bent right in.
start in the back and work to your left put one in at a time and work to the bow it will bent right in.
Don't do it
I am currently renovating a 1978 Hunter 33. I have completely replaced all the ports, removed the fuel tank and engine for reconditioning, added a PSS to the shaft, rebuilt the engine compartment, rebuilt the steering system, painted the cabin top and decks, replaced the chain plates and the list goes on. If there is anything I can do to help you during your rebuild let me know. As for the toe rail, I would not, not, not, remove it unless you absolutely must. Is it damaged? While I had all the life line stanchions off, I took a hand side grinder with a cut wheel and cut a shallow continuous line along the toe rail, slightly angled inward towards the toe rail. I used black sikeflex and laid a line of caulk along the toe rail and smoothed it out with my finger. Now I have a very good seal along the deck. Another reason to not remove the toe rail is it is alot of work and getting it back on will be a bear of a job.
I am currently renovating a 1978 Hunter 33. I have completely replaced all the ports, removed the fuel tank and engine for reconditioning, added a PSS to the shaft, rebuilt the engine compartment, rebuilt the steering system, painted the cabin top and decks, replaced the chain plates and the list goes on. If there is anything I can do to help you during your rebuild let me know. As for the toe rail, I would not, not, not, remove it unless you absolutely must. Is it damaged? While I had all the life line stanchions off, I took a hand side grinder with a cut wheel and cut a shallow continuous line along the toe rail, slightly angled inward towards the toe rail. I used black sikeflex and laid a line of caulk along the toe rail and smoothed it out with my finger. Now I have a very good seal along the deck. Another reason to not remove the toe rail is it is alot of work and getting it back on will be a bear of a job.
Many Thanks
Many thanks to all who responded to my question. After looking at it in more detail, I do think the toe rail will stay on. Excellent idea on the sealing technique, never would have though of doing that. I have read before that cleaning it with acetone will restore the color. Any suggestions? Okiman, I will keep your email very much at hand, sounds like you have a wealth of techniques to share. Again, many thanks and fair winds!!
Many thanks to all who responded to my question. After looking at it in more detail, I do think the toe rail will stay on. Excellent idea on the sealing technique, never would have though of doing that. I have read before that cleaning it with acetone will restore the color. Any suggestions? Okiman, I will keep your email very much at hand, sounds like you have a wealth of techniques to share. Again, many thanks and fair winds!!
Another toerail comment.
If you did remove it I believe you would find a compressed butyl hose-like seal. In other words the only thing required is that the compression remain. Tightening the bolts should be all that is necessary. Sounds easier than it is. Especially in the bow. The only place it can leak is through the bolt holes themselves. Okiman's idea keeps water from getting in and under but not from seeping in around the bolt heads from the top. The constant flexing requires that they be tightened on some schedule. I have started a project where every fourth bolt has a second fiber lock nut. The hope is this will extend the schedule to maybe every third or fourth year instead of annually.
If you did remove it I believe you would find a compressed butyl hose-like seal. In other words the only thing required is that the compression remain. Tightening the bolts should be all that is necessary. Sounds easier than it is. Especially in the bow. The only place it can leak is through the bolt holes themselves. Okiman's idea keeps water from getting in and under but not from seeping in around the bolt heads from the top. The constant flexing requires that they be tightened on some schedule. I have started a project where every fourth bolt has a second fiber lock nut. The hope is this will extend the schedule to maybe every third or fourth year instead of annually.
On Lake Erie?
If you sail on Lake Erie then there is no way the toe rails are not flexing. I don't care if you sail an Island Packet. Well maybe if you only go out in the bay with a south wind. Not sure I understand what you did and where you did it with the epoxy work Charlie.
If you sail on Lake Erie then there is no way the toe rails are not flexing. I don't care if you sail an Island Packet. Well maybe if you only go out in the bay with a south wind. Not sure I understand what you did and where you did it with the epoxy work Charlie.
- Status