I plan to keep my O'Day 25 on the hard next year due to various personal reasons. Is it a bad idea to shrink wrap a boat for an extended length of time? We get high winds in my area, so a tarp is out of the question.
To Wrap, or not to wrap
- Thread starter Steve Braverman
- Start date
- Status
Custom Cover?
I realize that a regular tarp is out of the question in wind prone storage, but I would think that a custom cover would endure far better than shrink wrap for prolonged storage. I've seen a number of shrink wrap jobs that didn't survive at all. I had a custom cover made for my boat, and with proper care it should last at least 10 years. The cover is built like a large tent over the boom and secured around the bases of the stanchions. It is subsequently secured to the cradle at several points. As long a ventilation is considered, and tiedowns regularly checked, the cover would be a better choice, even though its initial cost will be higher than a shrink wrap.
I realize that a regular tarp is out of the question in wind prone storage, but I would think that a custom cover would endure far better than shrink wrap for prolonged storage. I've seen a number of shrink wrap jobs that didn't survive at all. I had a custom cover made for my boat, and with proper care it should last at least 10 years. The cover is built like a large tent over the boom and secured around the bases of the stanchions. It is subsequently secured to the cradle at several points. As long a ventilation is considered, and tiedowns regularly checked, the cover would be a better choice, even though its initial cost will be higher than a shrink wrap.
Shrink Wrap
We srink wrapped our Pearson for one year in Maryland. It was wrapped in Late October. The next August the summer sun had caused several holes and tears so we had it removed and a new cover put on for that winters storms. It did fine. (We have shrink wrapped our boat each winter for the last ten years without any problems. We are gone for the winter so we are not there to make any repares or adjustments. The shrink wrap also adds some security as the yard can see if there has been a cut in the wrap and investigate. We do not install a door for that reason.) A friend also wrapped his boat one November for just over a year (Two winters and one and a half summers.) He did not change the wrap and moisture collected between the hull and wrap on the quarter that never got any direct sun. That caused thousands of very small bumps in the gel coat. They disappeared in about a year. Neither of our boats have Imron or Allgrip. If your boat does, don't shrink wrap. The wrap causes the paint to "dull". Dave
We srink wrapped our Pearson for one year in Maryland. It was wrapped in Late October. The next August the summer sun had caused several holes and tears so we had it removed and a new cover put on for that winters storms. It did fine. (We have shrink wrapped our boat each winter for the last ten years without any problems. We are gone for the winter so we are not there to make any repares or adjustments. The shrink wrap also adds some security as the yard can see if there has been a cut in the wrap and investigate. We do not install a door for that reason.) A friend also wrapped his boat one November for just over a year (Two winters and one and a half summers.) He did not change the wrap and moisture collected between the hull and wrap on the quarter that never got any direct sun. That caused thousands of very small bumps in the gel coat. They disappeared in about a year. Neither of our boats have Imron or Allgrip. If your boat does, don't shrink wrap. The wrap causes the paint to "dull". Dave
We had our Tartan 27 shrink wrapped one winter
while on the hard in Glen Cove, NY. Maybe there was not enough ventilation provided as I found that the shrink wrapping held moisture inside and there was some significant mildew growth inside the cabin and all over. I though it was a waste of money. We now use tarps and some framing made out of 1" electrical conduit. The ends of the boat are open a bit (ventilation) which allows any high winds to scoot on through. Tie down tarp(s) meticulously and pad sharp spots with carpet remnant pieces and duct tape. Our boat now winters on the shore of the Hudson River on a cradle, open to NE, E, SE winds and we have had no problems. Every year or two we need to buy a new tarp which is way cheaper than a shrink wrap job that is good for only one season. My $.02.
while on the hard in Glen Cove, NY. Maybe there was not enough ventilation provided as I found that the shrink wrapping held moisture inside and there was some significant mildew growth inside the cabin and all over. I though it was a waste of money. We now use tarps and some framing made out of 1" electrical conduit. The ends of the boat are open a bit (ventilation) which allows any high winds to scoot on through. Tie down tarp(s) meticulously and pad sharp spots with carpet remnant pieces and duct tape. Our boat now winters on the shore of the Hudson River on a cradle, open to NE, E, SE winds and we have had no problems. Every year or two we need to buy a new tarp which is way cheaper than a shrink wrap job that is good for only one season. My $.02.
No cover
98% of all boats come out each winter here in the upper mid-west. Most of the sailboats have no cover of any kind. I've had chaffing problems with tarps, so mine is now left uncovered as well. I haven't seen any more spring maintenance the usual.
98% of all boats come out each winter here in the upper mid-west. Most of the sailboats have no cover of any kind. I've had chaffing problems with tarps, so mine is now left uncovered as well. I haven't seen any more spring maintenance the usual.
Breathable cover
On our Catalina 36 I use a "boom tent" by Fairclough. It is canvas and is designed to lay over the boom with mast stepped. It ties down to the stanchions, bow & stern rail bases and has about 2-3" of gap with the deck. All fixed rigging have zippered keyholes with ties. A zippered door is also provided. We get good air flow and its keep the water off the deck and away from any fitting that might absorb water and developcracking due to icing. The cover is lighter weight and easier to handle than a full boat cover. If the mast and boom are removed we have a frame thatreplaces the boom to hold the cover up.
On our Catalina 36 I use a "boom tent" by Fairclough. It is canvas and is designed to lay over the boom with mast stepped. It ties down to the stanchions, bow & stern rail bases and has about 2-3" of gap with the deck. All fixed rigging have zippered keyholes with ties. A zippered door is also provided. We get good air flow and its keep the water off the deck and away from any fitting that might absorb water and developcracking due to icing. The cover is lighter weight and easier to handle than a full boat cover. If the mast and boom are removed we have a frame thatreplaces the boom to hold the cover up.
Freeze - thaw
What about freeze/thaw damage to cracks or chunks of gel coat missing. Does the surface act like northern roads and develope pot holes? Does a good wax coat prevent that on an open boat? We are adjacent to a steel mill so the shrink wrap keeps a lot of ash, dirt and cr_p off the boat.
What about freeze/thaw damage to cracks or chunks of gel coat missing. Does the surface act like northern roads and develope pot holes? Does a good wax coat prevent that on an open boat? We are adjacent to a steel mill so the shrink wrap keeps a lot of ash, dirt and cr_p off the boat.
An idea
i think from these posts it is obvious that shrink wrap is not good for a boat over the warm months. I. too, know someone who had blisters develop when their boat was left over the summer. Your boat will be happier with some type of cover. If you kept it indoors wouldn't that be best? A cover is an attempt at a compromise. I am assuming you do not have a trailer, otherwise you could store it indoors somewhere, undoubtedly the best option. My advise is to build a nice frame with cross peices every couple of feet so you basically have a roof type frame. You could even pad the frame with carpet scraps to stop the tarp from chafing. I would leave the ends open for ventilation. Tie the tarp tightly so movement is minimized in the wind. To further keep the tarp from blowing itself to shreds, use lengths of that orange plastic snow fencing tied tightly over the tarp at the cockpit, over the cabin top, and at the bow. The fencing is cheap and will help hold the tarp in place.
i think from these posts it is obvious that shrink wrap is not good for a boat over the warm months. I. too, know someone who had blisters develop when their boat was left over the summer. Your boat will be happier with some type of cover. If you kept it indoors wouldn't that be best? A cover is an attempt at a compromise. I am assuming you do not have a trailer, otherwise you could store it indoors somewhere, undoubtedly the best option. My advise is to build a nice frame with cross peices every couple of feet so you basically have a roof type frame. You could even pad the frame with carpet scraps to stop the tarp from chafing. I would leave the ends open for ventilation. Tie the tarp tightly so movement is minimized in the wind. To further keep the tarp from blowing itself to shreds, use lengths of that orange plastic snow fencing tied tightly over the tarp at the cockpit, over the cabin top, and at the bow. The fencing is cheap and will help hold the tarp in place.
rpierpo1
Nice frame. I made one similar last year with a heavy duty Black/Silver tarp that came from the DPO. Instead of tying, I hung 1 gal. water bottles on all the grommets. Never moved all winter. Snow shed nicely but it had a few holes that I patched with duct tape. My frame was 2x6 ridge with 1" pvc conduit bowed from port to starboard inside my stanchion bases(removed stanchions). The ridge extended about 3-4 feet over the ends of the boat. I left it open at bow and stern to breathe. Instead of resurrecting and buying a new tarp, last spring I order a fairclough cover/frame. Much more secure and will protect against most deadfall(my boat is in the trees). It also covers the topsides right down just below the cove stripe. So I will wax the topsides and then cover. In the spring, 1 coat of wax and she is ready to go. BTW, flogging tarps will scratch gelcoat and paint. If you use a cheap tarp, it will tear and flog. Grommits leave nice pits too. Never experienced myself but have seen plenty of cheapies go bad. Tim R.
Nice frame. I made one similar last year with a heavy duty Black/Silver tarp that came from the DPO. Instead of tying, I hung 1 gal. water bottles on all the grommets. Never moved all winter. Snow shed nicely but it had a few holes that I patched with duct tape. My frame was 2x6 ridge with 1" pvc conduit bowed from port to starboard inside my stanchion bases(removed stanchions). The ridge extended about 3-4 feet over the ends of the boat. I left it open at bow and stern to breathe. Instead of resurrecting and buying a new tarp, last spring I order a fairclough cover/frame. Much more secure and will protect against most deadfall(my boat is in the trees). It also covers the topsides right down just below the cove stripe. So I will wax the topsides and then cover. In the spring, 1 coat of wax and she is ready to go. BTW, flogging tarps will scratch gelcoat and paint. If you use a cheap tarp, it will tear and flog. Grommits leave nice pits too. Never experienced myself but have seen plenty of cheapies go bad. Tim R.
No problems here
Steve, I shrink wrap my boat every year with no problems at all, I put 10 vents (5) per side on the plastic cover and also put about 10 pcs per side (3' long)of the round foam used for insulating water pipers between the plastic and the side of the boat, that way it leaves clearance for any moisture to drain out and also helps with air circulation. I do the shrink wrapping all the way down to the water line. Gene
Steve, I shrink wrap my boat every year with no problems at all, I put 10 vents (5) per side on the plastic cover and also put about 10 pcs per side (3' long)of the round foam used for insulating water pipers between the plastic and the side of the boat, that way it leaves clearance for any moisture to drain out and also helps with air circulation. I do the shrink wrapping all the way down to the water line. Gene
rpierpo1, as others said
Nice frame, whats it made of? I made a system out of 3/4 emt and clamps called KoverKlamps that I bought over 20 yrs ago when I was restoring a Chris Craft and used them last year for the first time with tarps and I gotta tell you even though I had it all secured pretty good I did get some damage to the tarps on very windy days and duct tape works real well for the fixes but because I was doing a lot of deck work over the winter thats the only reason I would cover it,maybe next time I would shrink wrap cause its so tight and holds up to the wind and I'm thinking about a simple cover over the cockpit for this year cause I have all the bent conduit leftover from last year
Nice frame, whats it made of? I made a system out of 3/4 emt and clamps called KoverKlamps that I bought over 20 yrs ago when I was restoring a Chris Craft and used them last year for the first time with tarps and I gotta tell you even though I had it all secured pretty good I did get some damage to the tarps on very windy days and duct tape works real well for the fixes but because I was doing a lot of deck work over the winter thats the only reason I would cover it,maybe next time I would shrink wrap cause its so tight and holds up to the wind and I'm thinking about a simple cover over the cockpit for this year cause I have all the bent conduit leftover from last year
Special considerations for shrink wrap.....
Plenty of ventilation is the key If the wrap TOUCHES the gelcoat or awlgrip/imron/interthane, etc. BLISTERS or lifting of the paint WILL be a strong possibility. If you shrink-wrap be sure that the plastic sheeting *does not touch* the paint nor gelcoat. Been there, done that, and have the shoulder bursitis from having to re-do my painted topsides job on a formerly owned boat. If you must shrink wrap, construct a frame, etc., that keeps the shrink wrap OFF the gel and painted surfaces .... especially on the hull/topsides where water will collect between the shrinkwrap and hull, etc. Even with goood 'ventillation' such trapped water WILL tend to lift paint or mini-blister the gel.
Plenty of ventilation is the key If the wrap TOUCHES the gelcoat or awlgrip/imron/interthane, etc. BLISTERS or lifting of the paint WILL be a strong possibility. If you shrink-wrap be sure that the plastic sheeting *does not touch* the paint nor gelcoat. Been there, done that, and have the shoulder bursitis from having to re-do my painted topsides job on a formerly owned boat. If you must shrink wrap, construct a frame, etc., that keeps the shrink wrap OFF the gel and painted surfaces .... especially on the hull/topsides where water will collect between the shrinkwrap and hull, etc. Even with goood 'ventillation' such trapped water WILL tend to lift paint or mini-blister the gel.
nono to shrink wrap continued
My buddy did his boat in a somewhat different fashion. But another boat in the marina did his that way (go to related sight on the other NONO TO SHRINK WRAP. First, my buddy used all 1" pipe. We made a ridge pole with 4 ways at each stanchion location. We started in the middle of the 30'er and moved forward. It ended up looking like a giant spider. Took one day as it was a custom made job. The other guy used 3/4 pipe, which bends easier and made a conastoga wagon out of his boat. All he did was make a long pole out of the pipe using connectors and bent it, tying it to a port and starboard stanchion. The next one he eyeballed for height and cut the pole to match the neighbor in height. He did this all the way down the boat. Then he connected the center or each arch using poly line going from bow to aft. I think 4 ways and piping would have been stronger, but his seem to work. What he did differently is run poly line OVER the tarp too, after he first tied the tarp down. This holds it down from the wind. SO far, in 40+ knots, the thing has held as has my friends. If you don't have teak, why worry? Just put a tarp over it and forget about it.
My buddy did his boat in a somewhat different fashion. But another boat in the marina did his that way (go to related sight on the other NONO TO SHRINK WRAP. First, my buddy used all 1" pipe. We made a ridge pole with 4 ways at each stanchion location. We started in the middle of the 30'er and moved forward. It ended up looking like a giant spider. Took one day as it was a custom made job. The other guy used 3/4 pipe, which bends easier and made a conastoga wagon out of his boat. All he did was make a long pole out of the pipe using connectors and bent it, tying it to a port and starboard stanchion. The next one he eyeballed for height and cut the pole to match the neighbor in height. He did this all the way down the boat. Then he connected the center or each arch using poly line going from bow to aft. I think 4 ways and piping would have been stronger, but his seem to work. What he did differently is run poly line OVER the tarp too, after he first tied the tarp down. This holds it down from the wind. SO far, in 40+ knots, the thing has held as has my friends. If you don't have teak, why worry? Just put a tarp over it and forget about it.
- Status