This weekend I’m going to make a winter cover for my Hunter 30 1981. This is my second winter in central Michigan and have been looking at different styles. I’m leaning in using the boom and running a wire from the mast( at boom height) down to the bow for support. But my question is whether to cover over the life lines or bring down to the toe rail, with a little over hang. I will attach the cover with plastic wire tie at the toe rail through Grommets.
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I tried both
If only the Hunters had removable stanshions!
My most success was to the deck rather then over the life lines. Just too many pointy edges, and nothing I tried would work to take the edge off.
If only the Hunters had removable stanshions!
My most success was to the deck rather then over the life lines. Just too many pointy edges, and nothing I tried would work to take the edge off.Me too.
Same question. In past years my cover has been over a center ridge made of 6" drain pipe and supported just 12" off the deck, over the pedestal guard and down to the deck edge/toe rail. Water/snow can run down the deck but not get in the cockpit, hatches, or portlights. I remove the booms(cutter) and store them under the cover. This year I bought a very large cover off of E-Bay, one that could easily go over the stanchions. In fact will have to unless I make a slot for every stanchion. My plan is to slice 4" drain pipe, about a two foot piece over the lifelines at every stanchion. This should prevent any tearing of the cover. And I will have to raise the height of the center ridge to get the runoff that I need. I will also need slots for the six shrouds, the mast, the backstay, and the forestay. All of my covers are the heavy silver/black type with the silver side out. They easily last four winters on Lake Erie. It is tightened down so there is no movement in the heaviest wind. You don't want a heavy cover beating on the gelcoat. If I ever make(or have made) a good canvas cover it will be the type that ties to the toerail.
Same question. In past years my cover has been over a center ridge made of 6" drain pipe and supported just 12" off the deck, over the pedestal guard and down to the deck edge/toe rail. Water/snow can run down the deck but not get in the cockpit, hatches, or portlights. I remove the booms(cutter) and store them under the cover. This year I bought a very large cover off of E-Bay, one that could easily go over the stanchions. In fact will have to unless I make a slot for every stanchion. My plan is to slice 4" drain pipe, about a two foot piece over the lifelines at every stanchion. This should prevent any tearing of the cover. And I will have to raise the height of the center ridge to get the runoff that I need. I will also need slots for the six shrouds, the mast, the backstay, and the forestay. All of my covers are the heavy silver/black type with the silver side out. They easily last four winters on Lake Erie. It is tightened down so there is no movement in the heaviest wind. You don't want a heavy cover beating on the gelcoat. If I ever make(or have made) a good canvas cover it will be the type that ties to the toerail.
tennis balls
My cover was made by Custom Covers and Canvas of Niagara Falls. They made it to cover the whole boat to below the waterline. They took tennis balls, cut a slit in them and put them on top of the stanchions. So far so Good!
My cover was made by Custom Covers and Canvas of Niagara Falls. They made it to cover the whole boat to below the waterline. They took tennis balls, cut a slit in them and put them on top of the stanchions. So far so Good!
Whisker pole to bow pulpit
I attach my whicker pole to the mast and extend it to the bow pulpit and attach it with a bungee. This makes a very nice support for the forward tarp (it's also adjustable from underneath).
I attach my whicker pole to the mast and extend it to the bow pulpit and attach it with a bungee. This makes a very nice support for the forward tarp (it's also adjustable from underneath).
Home Depot to the Rescue
Try this. It's worked with my '81 Watkins 27' for several years, and it's what I'm going to do with my new '81 H33 when it comes out of the water in two weeks. Home Depot (or where every you go) has 1 1/2" gray PVC (electrical conduit, cheaper than the white stuff), 45 and 90 degree elbows. Take some rough measurements, here's what I do. Remove the lifelines. Cut a length of PVC to drop over each stanchion (same height more or less), attach a 45 degree elbow. Same on opposite side. Insert lengths of PVC into each 45, swing them together, measure, cut, and connect with a 90 degree elbow, instant A frame. Do the rest of your stancions. I then create a double ridge pole by tying a line to the port side of the pulpit and stringing it tight about a foot down the port side of each frame (clove hitches work well to secure) then tie it off to the stern rail. Same on Starboard side. Toss, or drag a big blue tarp in place, secure, and call it a winter. Mark all the parts and it's easy to put back together next year, and the year after, and...
Try this. It's worked with my '81 Watkins 27' for several years, and it's what I'm going to do with my new '81 H33 when it comes out of the water in two weeks. Home Depot (or where every you go) has 1 1/2" gray PVC (electrical conduit, cheaper than the white stuff), 45 and 90 degree elbows. Take some rough measurements, here's what I do. Remove the lifelines. Cut a length of PVC to drop over each stanchion (same height more or less), attach a 45 degree elbow. Same on opposite side. Insert lengths of PVC into each 45, swing them together, measure, cut, and connect with a 90 degree elbow, instant A frame. Do the rest of your stancions. I then create a double ridge pole by tying a line to the port side of the pulpit and stringing it tight about a foot down the port side of each frame (clove hitches work well to secure) then tie it off to the stern rail. Same on Starboard side. Toss, or drag a big blue tarp in place, secure, and call it a winter. Mark all the parts and it's easy to put back together next year, and the year after, and...
covered stanctions and lost two
The first winter season I covered the 79 Hunter 30' with a blue 40' tarp from Home Depot. The mast was out so I pulled over the top and used bungees to tie the ends together under the boat. It looked good- open at the bow and stern to let air flow. The tarp snow loaded, and then water loaded. The tarp broke through to the rail, and in the process took two stanctions with it. Never again. I have been bare boat ever since. Good luck Ian
The first winter season I covered the 79 Hunter 30' with a blue 40' tarp from Home Depot. The mast was out so I pulled over the top and used bungees to tie the ends together under the boat. It looked good- open at the bow and stern to let air flow. The tarp snow loaded, and then water loaded. The tarp broke through to the rail, and in the process took two stanctions with it. Never again. I have been bare boat ever since. Good luck Ian
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