After removing or replacing all of the exterior teak on our Oday 26 last year and applying roughly 7 coats of Captain's Varnish 1015 to it, I was frustrated to see that, now, most of the brightwork has some signs of UV damage. I'm trying to come up with a game plan to correct this problem and ensure that I get more than one summer out of this tedious project. I'm interested in Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss because of the company's claim that it looks like varnish without the sanding. Does anyone have experience with this stuff? What do you think? If I decide to stick with varnish, should I sand off all of the old stuff or just lightly sand and reapply? (The damage is only spotty.) Thanks.
To varnish or to fake varnish?
- Thread starter Mike8088
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After removing or replacing all of the exterior teak on our Oday 26 last year and applying roughly 7 coats of Captain's Varnish 1015 to it, I was frustrated to see that, now, most of the brightwork has some signs of UV damage. I'm trying to come up with a game plan to correct this problem and ensure that I get more than one summer out of this tedious project. I'm interested in Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss because of the company's claim that it looks like varnish without the sanding. Does anyone have experience with this stuff? What do you think? If I decide to stick with varnish, should I sand off all of the old stuff or just lightly sand and reapply? (The damage is only spotty.) Thanks.
I've tried them all
IMO, Bristol Finish can't be matched for ease of use, durability, and appearance. It's a two part urathane product. I've always started with a stripped and sanded surface but the product info claims it can be applied over existing finishes that have been lightly sanded. 10 years ago I started by applying a total of 5 coats, 1 coat every couple of hours with no sanding in between. About every three years I lightly sand and apply a couple more coats and my teak always looks awesome. I've also used in on mahogony with the same results.
IMO, Bristol Finish can't be matched for ease of use, durability, and appearance. It's a two part urathane product. I've always started with a stripped and sanded surface but the product info claims it can be applied over existing finishes that have been lightly sanded. 10 years ago I started by applying a total of 5 coats, 1 coat every couple of hours with no sanding in between. About every three years I lightly sand and apply a couple more coats and my teak always looks awesome. I've also used in on mahogony with the same results.
I've tried them all
IMO, Bristol Finish can't be matched for ease of use, durability, and appearance. It's a two part urathane product. I've always started with a stripped and sanded surface but the product info claims it can be applied over existing finishes that have been lightly sanded. 10 years ago I started by applying a total of 5 coats, 1 coat every couple of hours with no sanding in between. About every three years I lightly sand and apply a couple more coats and my teak always looks awesome. I've also used in on mahogony with the same results.
IMO, Bristol Finish can't be matched for ease of use, durability, and appearance. It's a two part urathane product. I've always started with a stripped and sanded surface but the product info claims it can be applied over existing finishes that have been lightly sanded. 10 years ago I started by applying a total of 5 coats, 1 coat every couple of hours with no sanding in between. About every three years I lightly sand and apply a couple more coats and my teak always looks awesome. I've also used in on mahogony with the same results.
Varnishing Teak
Mr. Mike, I was always told, and found out later myself, that applying varnish over teak wood just didn't work. Because of the natural oil within teak, the varnish always lifted and pealed within a short period of time. From then on, I just did the cleaning, brushing, and bleaching thing and then used teal Sealer, rather than teak oil (which will cllect and hold the dirt, then you back to square one again). Hope this helps. May You Have Smooth Sailing on Warm Breezes ! Bob Burns=Rascal
Mr. Mike, I was always told, and found out later myself, that applying varnish over teak wood just didn't work. Because of the natural oil within teak, the varnish always lifted and pealed within a short period of time. From then on, I just did the cleaning, brushing, and bleaching thing and then used teal Sealer, rather than teak oil (which will cllect and hold the dirt, then you back to square one again). Hope this helps. May You Have Smooth Sailing on Warm Breezes ! Bob Burns=Rascal
Varnishing Teak
Mr. Mike, I was always told, and found out later myself, that applying varnish over teak wood just didn't work. Because of the natural oil within teak, the varnish always lifted and pealed within a short period of time. From then on, I just did the cleaning, brushing, and bleaching thing and then used teal Sealer, rather than teak oil (which will cllect and hold the dirt, then you back to square one again). Hope this helps. May You Have Smooth Sailing on Warm Breezes ! Bob Burns=Rascal
Mr. Mike, I was always told, and found out later myself, that applying varnish over teak wood just didn't work. Because of the natural oil within teak, the varnish always lifted and pealed within a short period of time. From then on, I just did the cleaning, brushing, and bleaching thing and then used teal Sealer, rather than teak oil (which will cllect and hold the dirt, then you back to square one again). Hope this helps. May You Have Smooth Sailing on Warm Breezes ! Bob Burns=Rascal
Rascal have you tried....
Rascal, have you tried wiping the surface with laquer thinner or acetone before you applied the finish. They should also be used prior to glue-up if you are building something from teak. All you are trying to do is to remove the surface oil with a solvent. I dont know what the ancients used as a solvent, but teak has been glued and finished for hundreds of years and there are untold millions of pieces of teak furniture and accessories in millionns of American homes as well as all over the world. I think that the myth that varnish over teak and glueing teak wont work because of the natural oil in the teak is way overplayed. As testimony, just look at all of the cabinetry in some of the older boats. Tony B
Rascal, have you tried wiping the surface with laquer thinner or acetone before you applied the finish. They should also be used prior to glue-up if you are building something from teak. All you are trying to do is to remove the surface oil with a solvent. I dont know what the ancients used as a solvent, but teak has been glued and finished for hundreds of years and there are untold millions of pieces of teak furniture and accessories in millionns of American homes as well as all over the world. I think that the myth that varnish over teak and glueing teak wont work because of the natural oil in the teak is way overplayed. As testimony, just look at all of the cabinetry in some of the older boats. Tony B
Rascal have you tried....
Rascal, have you tried wiping the surface with laquer thinner or acetone before you applied the finish. They should also be used prior to glue-up if you are building something from teak. All you are trying to do is to remove the surface oil with a solvent. I dont know what the ancients used as a solvent, but teak has been glued and finished for hundreds of years and there are untold millions of pieces of teak furniture and accessories in millionns of American homes as well as all over the world. I think that the myth that varnish over teak and glueing teak wont work because of the natural oil in the teak is way overplayed. As testimony, just look at all of the cabinetry in some of the older boats. Tony B
Rascal, have you tried wiping the surface with laquer thinner or acetone before you applied the finish. They should also be used prior to glue-up if you are building something from teak. All you are trying to do is to remove the surface oil with a solvent. I dont know what the ancients used as a solvent, but teak has been glued and finished for hundreds of years and there are untold millions of pieces of teak furniture and accessories in millionns of American homes as well as all over the world. I think that the myth that varnish over teak and glueing teak wont work because of the natural oil in the teak is way overplayed. As testimony, just look at all of the cabinetry in some of the older boats. Tony B
RichH is right.
The PO of my boat, a retired professional painter with whom I sailed as crew for seven years before buying the boat, recommended Signature Honey Teak to everyone who complimented his always great looking teak. He always said it lasts longer than any other product out there. The instructions are intimidating at first glance, but it's worth the up front work for the longer lasting results. He first applied Honey Teak ten or twelve years ago and did regular maintenance coats as well as patches and repairs. Last year, a year after he passed away, probably 95% of the honey teak was still firmly attached, but his workmanship had gotten a bit sloppy the last few years and the look was sort of "lumpy" in areas. Can't fault him though, considering he sailed to the age of 83. I would note that the 5% that let go was all at sharp edges where the product can't build up as thick. So heed the mfr's directions to round all sharp edges with sandpaper. Being a hopeless perfectionist, I decided to strip the teak back to bare wood and start fresh with the same product. I did handrails and step plates last spring, hatch boards and swim ladder steps on my kitchen island over the holidays (Don't recommend that. Nasty fumes.), and will do eye brows and cockpit trim next year. After that, I'm looking forward to semi-annual maintenance coats and only minor repairs until hopefully 2015 or later.
The PO of my boat, a retired professional painter with whom I sailed as crew for seven years before buying the boat, recommended Signature Honey Teak to everyone who complimented his always great looking teak. He always said it lasts longer than any other product out there. The instructions are intimidating at first glance, but it's worth the up front work for the longer lasting results. He first applied Honey Teak ten or twelve years ago and did regular maintenance coats as well as patches and repairs. Last year, a year after he passed away, probably 95% of the honey teak was still firmly attached, but his workmanship had gotten a bit sloppy the last few years and the look was sort of "lumpy" in areas. Can't fault him though, considering he sailed to the age of 83. I would note that the 5% that let go was all at sharp edges where the product can't build up as thick. So heed the mfr's directions to round all sharp edges with sandpaper. Being a hopeless perfectionist, I decided to strip the teak back to bare wood and start fresh with the same product. I did handrails and step plates last spring, hatch boards and swim ladder steps on my kitchen island over the holidays (Don't recommend that. Nasty fumes.), and will do eye brows and cockpit trim next year. After that, I'm looking forward to semi-annual maintenance coats and only minor repairs until hopefully 2015 or later.
RichH is right.
The PO of my boat, a retired professional painter with whom I sailed as crew for seven years before buying the boat, recommended Signature Honey Teak to everyone who complimented his always great looking teak. He always said it lasts longer than any other product out there. The instructions are intimidating at first glance, but it's worth the up front work for the longer lasting results. He first applied Honey Teak ten or twelve years ago and did regular maintenance coats as well as patches and repairs. Last year, a year after he passed away, probably 95% of the honey teak was still firmly attached, but his workmanship had gotten a bit sloppy the last few years and the look was sort of "lumpy" in areas. Can't fault him though, considering he sailed to the age of 83. I would note that the 5% that let go was all at sharp edges where the product can't build up as thick. So heed the mfr's directions to round all sharp edges with sandpaper. Being a hopeless perfectionist, I decided to strip the teak back to bare wood and start fresh with the same product. I did handrails and step plates last spring, hatch boards and swim ladder steps on my kitchen island over the holidays (Don't recommend that. Nasty fumes.), and will do eye brows and cockpit trim next year. After that, I'm looking forward to semi-annual maintenance coats and only minor repairs until hopefully 2015 or later.
The PO of my boat, a retired professional painter with whom I sailed as crew for seven years before buying the boat, recommended Signature Honey Teak to everyone who complimented his always great looking teak. He always said it lasts longer than any other product out there. The instructions are intimidating at first glance, but it's worth the up front work for the longer lasting results. He first applied Honey Teak ten or twelve years ago and did regular maintenance coats as well as patches and repairs. Last year, a year after he passed away, probably 95% of the honey teak was still firmly attached, but his workmanship had gotten a bit sloppy the last few years and the look was sort of "lumpy" in areas. Can't fault him though, considering he sailed to the age of 83. I would note that the 5% that let go was all at sharp edges where the product can't build up as thick. So heed the mfr's directions to round all sharp edges with sandpaper. Being a hopeless perfectionist, I decided to strip the teak back to bare wood and start fresh with the same product. I did handrails and step plates last spring, hatch boards and swim ladder steps on my kitchen island over the holidays (Don't recommend that. Nasty fumes.), and will do eye brows and cockpit trim next year. After that, I'm looking forward to semi-annual maintenance coats and only minor repairs until hopefully 2015 or later.
Dalliance
could you explane the daunting instructions a bit? I try and play at being a perfectionst, but in truth I'm really not. I do get to a point where if it's not enjoyable I'll say the heck with it. Now dont get me wrong sometimes hard work is enjoyable but I aint anal about it.. Thats why I bought a MOSTLY plastic boat. I do love interior wood though. So I want to do the least amount of work to what little weather wood that I have. ie: Toe rails, Bow sprit platform, hatch washboards and cockpit table. Mikado55 said he dosent need to do anything to his but once every 3 years, but you and Rich say your's is better?? and have tried his. HELP!!
could you explane the daunting instructions a bit? I try and play at being a perfectionst, but in truth I'm really not. I do get to a point where if it's not enjoyable I'll say the heck with it. Now dont get me wrong sometimes hard work is enjoyable but I aint anal about it.. Thats why I bought a MOSTLY plastic boat. I do love interior wood though. So I want to do the least amount of work to what little weather wood that I have. ie: Toe rails, Bow sprit platform, hatch washboards and cockpit table. Mikado55 said he dosent need to do anything to his but once every 3 years, but you and Rich say your's is better?? and have tried his. HELP!!
Dalliance
could you explane the daunting instructions a bit? I try and play at being a perfectionst, but in truth I'm really not. I do get to a point where if it's not enjoyable I'll say the heck with it. Now dont get me wrong sometimes hard work is enjoyable but I aint anal about it.. Thats why I bought a MOSTLY plastic boat. I do love interior wood though. So I want to do the least amount of work to what little weather wood that I have. ie: Toe rails, Bow sprit platform, hatch washboards and cockpit table. Mikado55 said he dosent need to do anything to his but once every 3 years, but you and Rich say your's is better?? and have tried his. HELP!!
could you explane the daunting instructions a bit? I try and play at being a perfectionst, but in truth I'm really not. I do get to a point where if it's not enjoyable I'll say the heck with it. Now dont get me wrong sometimes hard work is enjoyable but I aint anal about it.. Thats why I bought a MOSTLY plastic boat. I do love interior wood though. So I want to do the least amount of work to what little weather wood that I have. ie: Toe rails, Bow sprit platform, hatch washboards and cockpit table. Mikado55 said he dosent need to do anything to his but once every 3 years, but you and Rich say your's is better?? and have tried his. HELP!!
My perception of the 'differences'
Bristol doesnt have a clear coat over the base, as its a single coating system like varnish or cetol. Honey Teak is a 2 part base and a 2 part clear overcoat, the overcoat is a urethane-acrylic which to me has much better 'gloss'. Although HT is a bit softer, it can be more easily power-buffed (similar to polyglow, etc.) I do confess that Ive converted a few of the local 'pro' finishers to HT ... and after they applied Bristol toooo thin which the underlying wood quickly became UV damaged and then the coating lifted. This was purely an application error as most of these 'modern' varnish equivalents need to be applied very 'thick' so you get the UV protection, as its the UV destruction of the surface wood cells that results in the 'lifting'. I dont have any objections to Bristol at all. I get what I consider to be a superior coating and 'finish' with the more expensive HT. I also use some of the SignatureFinish Boat paint, etc. with the same polymer system for boot and shear stripes, etc. and am simply amazed at the adhesion of the stuff (doesnt need a 'primer'), plus its able to be hand rubbed and power buffed easily. Both look close to prime varnish, last very long and dont lift if applied thick, are easily repairable .... I simply prefer the higher gloss possible with HT. HT can be purchased in 'splits' ... just tell them how many oz. or the surface area you need; you dont have to buy a 'full can', etc. ;-)
Bristol doesnt have a clear coat over the base, as its a single coating system like varnish or cetol. Honey Teak is a 2 part base and a 2 part clear overcoat, the overcoat is a urethane-acrylic which to me has much better 'gloss'. Although HT is a bit softer, it can be more easily power-buffed (similar to polyglow, etc.) I do confess that Ive converted a few of the local 'pro' finishers to HT ... and after they applied Bristol toooo thin which the underlying wood quickly became UV damaged and then the coating lifted. This was purely an application error as most of these 'modern' varnish equivalents need to be applied very 'thick' so you get the UV protection, as its the UV destruction of the surface wood cells that results in the 'lifting'. I dont have any objections to Bristol at all. I get what I consider to be a superior coating and 'finish' with the more expensive HT. I also use some of the SignatureFinish Boat paint, etc. with the same polymer system for boot and shear stripes, etc. and am simply amazed at the adhesion of the stuff (doesnt need a 'primer'), plus its able to be hand rubbed and power buffed easily. Both look close to prime varnish, last very long and dont lift if applied thick, are easily repairable .... I simply prefer the higher gloss possible with HT. HT can be purchased in 'splits' ... just tell them how many oz. or the surface area you need; you dont have to buy a 'full can', etc. ;-)
My perception of the 'differences'
Bristol doesnt have a clear coat over the base, as its a single coating system like varnish or cetol. Honey Teak is a 2 part base and a 2 part clear overcoat, the overcoat is a urethane-acrylic which to me has much better 'gloss'. Although HT is a bit softer, it can be more easily power-buffed (similar to polyglow, etc.) I do confess that Ive converted a few of the local 'pro' finishers to HT ... and after they applied Bristol toooo thin which the underlying wood quickly became UV damaged and then the coating lifted. This was purely an application error as most of these 'modern' varnish equivalents need to be applied very 'thick' so you get the UV protection, as its the UV destruction of the surface wood cells that results in the 'lifting'. I dont have any objections to Bristol at all. I get what I consider to be a superior coating and 'finish' with the more expensive HT. I also use some of the SignatureFinish Boat paint, etc. with the same polymer system for boot and shear stripes, etc. and am simply amazed at the adhesion of the stuff (doesnt need a 'primer'), plus its able to be hand rubbed and power buffed easily. Both look close to prime varnish, last very long and dont lift if applied thick, are easily repairable .... I simply prefer the higher gloss possible with HT. HT can be purchased in 'splits' ... just tell them how many oz. or the surface area you need; you dont have to buy a 'full can', etc. ;-)
Bristol doesnt have a clear coat over the base, as its a single coating system like varnish or cetol. Honey Teak is a 2 part base and a 2 part clear overcoat, the overcoat is a urethane-acrylic which to me has much better 'gloss'. Although HT is a bit softer, it can be more easily power-buffed (similar to polyglow, etc.) I do confess that Ive converted a few of the local 'pro' finishers to HT ... and after they applied Bristol toooo thin which the underlying wood quickly became UV damaged and then the coating lifted. This was purely an application error as most of these 'modern' varnish equivalents need to be applied very 'thick' so you get the UV protection, as its the UV destruction of the surface wood cells that results in the 'lifting'. I dont have any objections to Bristol at all. I get what I consider to be a superior coating and 'finish' with the more expensive HT. I also use some of the SignatureFinish Boat paint, etc. with the same polymer system for boot and shear stripes, etc. and am simply amazed at the adhesion of the stuff (doesnt need a 'primer'), plus its able to be hand rubbed and power buffed easily. Both look close to prime varnish, last very long and dont lift if applied thick, are easily repairable .... I simply prefer the higher gloss possible with HT. HT can be purchased in 'splits' ... just tell them how many oz. or the surface area you need; you dont have to buy a 'full can', etc. ;-)
been there
My present boat is a teak queen and has been finished with Bistol. It held up well for 3 seasons, but now needs attention. I am dedicating this spring to the teak and will use Bristol becasue this is what was already on when i purchased the boat. My last boat had a lot of teak trim and I finally turned to Honey Teak which seemed to work quite well for the two or three years I used it. there is no maintenance free answer.
My present boat is a teak queen and has been finished with Bistol. It held up well for 3 seasons, but now needs attention. I am dedicating this spring to the teak and will use Bristol becasue this is what was already on when i purchased the boat. My last boat had a lot of teak trim and I finally turned to Honey Teak which seemed to work quite well for the two or three years I used it. there is no maintenance free answer.
been there
My present boat is a teak queen and has been finished with Bistol. It held up well for 3 seasons, but now needs attention. I am dedicating this spring to the teak and will use Bristol becasue this is what was already on when i purchased the boat. My last boat had a lot of teak trim and I finally turned to Honey Teak which seemed to work quite well for the two or three years I used it. there is no maintenance free answer.
My present boat is a teak queen and has been finished with Bistol. It held up well for 3 seasons, but now needs attention. I am dedicating this spring to the teak and will use Bristol becasue this is what was already on when i purchased the boat. My last boat had a lot of teak trim and I finally turned to Honey Teak which seemed to work quite well for the two or three years I used it. there is no maintenance free answer.
Stillraining - re Honey Teak instructions -
By "intimidating at first glance", what I was referring to is the fact that there are actually four cans of product to mix; honey teak, catalyst & flow fluid for the first three or four coats, then clear enamel and catalyst for the two or more finish coats. Here is a brief outline of the steps - starting with bare teak (And it took me 3 to 4 applications of stripper to get there.): 1. Clean with two part teak cleaner & lightener. 2. Sand, #80 or #100 grit, round corners & sharp edges. 3. Rub firmly with 3M red scuff pad #7447. 4. Wipe dust off with denatured alcohol. 5. Tack rag immediately before applying. 6. Mix and apply Honey Teak - 1st coat - brush into cracks, seams, etc. 2nd, 3rd & optional 4th coats - "Lay on wet on wet, every 20 minutes or as long as the surface still has a tack." 7. Mix and apply Clear Enamel finish coats - If applied when the HT still has a light tack,no scuffing required, but if it has cured hard, or overnight, then scuff and tack rag first. Recoat every 20 to 60 minutes, wet on wet, only 2 coats required but the mfr says you can do up to 8 in one day. My attempt to summarize this may be risky - The mfr's instructions include many details, helpfull hints, info for sanding and buffing to create matte or wet look finishes, maintenance re-coating, directions on how to repair damaged areas, etc. So...excuse the disclaimer, but anyone using this product should read the mfr's instructions rather than my outline of them. I don't know, but I would think that steps 1-5 are probably not much different for the other products. Which by the way, I'm sure are excellent too. In theory, with Honey Teak you could apply all of the required coats in one day, but I have not done more than three in a day due to schedule constraints. I rely on the scuff pad and tack rag between coats when I have let it cure overnight or from one weekend to the next. Also, I found the customer service to be outstanding - had questions on a Saturday and got a return phone call the same day...From the president of the company no less.
By "intimidating at first glance", what I was referring to is the fact that there are actually four cans of product to mix; honey teak, catalyst & flow fluid for the first three or four coats, then clear enamel and catalyst for the two or more finish coats. Here is a brief outline of the steps - starting with bare teak (And it took me 3 to 4 applications of stripper to get there.): 1. Clean with two part teak cleaner & lightener. 2. Sand, #80 or #100 grit, round corners & sharp edges. 3. Rub firmly with 3M red scuff pad #7447. 4. Wipe dust off with denatured alcohol. 5. Tack rag immediately before applying. 6. Mix and apply Honey Teak - 1st coat - brush into cracks, seams, etc. 2nd, 3rd & optional 4th coats - "Lay on wet on wet, every 20 minutes or as long as the surface still has a tack." 7. Mix and apply Clear Enamel finish coats - If applied when the HT still has a light tack,no scuffing required, but if it has cured hard, or overnight, then scuff and tack rag first. Recoat every 20 to 60 minutes, wet on wet, only 2 coats required but the mfr says you can do up to 8 in one day. My attempt to summarize this may be risky - The mfr's instructions include many details, helpfull hints, info for sanding and buffing to create matte or wet look finishes, maintenance re-coating, directions on how to repair damaged areas, etc. So...excuse the disclaimer, but anyone using this product should read the mfr's instructions rather than my outline of them. I don't know, but I would think that steps 1-5 are probably not much different for the other products. Which by the way, I'm sure are excellent too. In theory, with Honey Teak you could apply all of the required coats in one day, but I have not done more than three in a day due to schedule constraints. I rely on the scuff pad and tack rag between coats when I have let it cure overnight or from one weekend to the next. Also, I found the customer service to be outstanding - had questions on a Saturday and got a return phone call the same day...From the president of the company no less.
Stillraining - re Honey Teak instructions -
By "intimidating at first glance", what I was referring to is the fact that there are actually four cans of product to mix; honey teak, catalyst & flow fluid for the first three or four coats, then clear enamel and catalyst for the two or more finish coats. Here is a brief outline of the steps - starting with bare teak (And it took me 3 to 4 applications of stripper to get there.): 1. Clean with two part teak cleaner & lightener. 2. Sand, #80 or #100 grit, round corners & sharp edges. 3. Rub firmly with 3M red scuff pad #7447. 4. Wipe dust off with denatured alcohol. 5. Tack rag immediately before applying. 6. Mix and apply Honey Teak - 1st coat - brush into cracks, seams, etc. 2nd, 3rd & optional 4th coats - "Lay on wet on wet, every 20 minutes or as long as the surface still has a tack." 7. Mix and apply Clear Enamel finish coats - If applied when the HT still has a light tack,no scuffing required, but if it has cured hard, or overnight, then scuff and tack rag first. Recoat every 20 to 60 minutes, wet on wet, only 2 coats required but the mfr says you can do up to 8 in one day. My attempt to summarize this may be risky - The mfr's instructions include many details, helpfull hints, info for sanding and buffing to create matte or wet look finishes, maintenance re-coating, directions on how to repair damaged areas, etc. So...excuse the disclaimer, but anyone using this product should read the mfr's instructions rather than my outline of them. I don't know, but I would think that steps 1-5 are probably not much different for the other products. Which by the way, I'm sure are excellent too. In theory, with Honey Teak you could apply all of the required coats in one day, but I have not done more than three in a day due to schedule constraints. I rely on the scuff pad and tack rag between coats when I have let it cure overnight or from one weekend to the next. Also, I found the customer service to be outstanding - had questions on a Saturday and got a return phone call the same day...From the president of the company no less.
By "intimidating at first glance", what I was referring to is the fact that there are actually four cans of product to mix; honey teak, catalyst & flow fluid for the first three or four coats, then clear enamel and catalyst for the two or more finish coats. Here is a brief outline of the steps - starting with bare teak (And it took me 3 to 4 applications of stripper to get there.): 1. Clean with two part teak cleaner & lightener. 2. Sand, #80 or #100 grit, round corners & sharp edges. 3. Rub firmly with 3M red scuff pad #7447. 4. Wipe dust off with denatured alcohol. 5. Tack rag immediately before applying. 6. Mix and apply Honey Teak - 1st coat - brush into cracks, seams, etc. 2nd, 3rd & optional 4th coats - "Lay on wet on wet, every 20 minutes or as long as the surface still has a tack." 7. Mix and apply Clear Enamel finish coats - If applied when the HT still has a light tack,no scuffing required, but if it has cured hard, or overnight, then scuff and tack rag first. Recoat every 20 to 60 minutes, wet on wet, only 2 coats required but the mfr says you can do up to 8 in one day. My attempt to summarize this may be risky - The mfr's instructions include many details, helpfull hints, info for sanding and buffing to create matte or wet look finishes, maintenance re-coating, directions on how to repair damaged areas, etc. So...excuse the disclaimer, but anyone using this product should read the mfr's instructions rather than my outline of them. I don't know, but I would think that steps 1-5 are probably not much different for the other products. Which by the way, I'm sure are excellent too. In theory, with Honey Teak you could apply all of the required coats in one day, but I have not done more than three in a day due to schedule constraints. I rely on the scuff pad and tack rag between coats when I have let it cure overnight or from one weekend to the next. Also, I found the customer service to be outstanding - had questions on a Saturday and got a return phone call the same day...From the president of the company no less.
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