I have a Beneteau 23.5 wing keel. Displacement is about 2310 pounds. Draft is about 3 feet, keel does not retract or swing up. Currently I have no trailer for this boat and slip it at a marina along the Hudson River. While it's fun sailing on the Hudson, cruising is limited to going North or South along a thin strip of water. To get to the coast is a 2 day haul, usually a motor event, unless you get lucky with wind direction. I've been thinking of getting a trailer to take it to far away cruising grounds by road. I would still slip it for day sails, trailering would only be for long weekends or the 1 or 2 week vacation. I have a lightening sailboat that I trailer and setup/take down each time I use it, so I'm familiar with the rigging hassle; although, the 23.5 will be more involved. The trailer will be an expensive purchase, so I'd like to tap the collective brain power here to help make a decision. Questions for those that trailer a larger sailboat: Is this a worth while pursuit? or will the trailer sit idle because of the hassle? How is launching and retrieving with a tongue extender? When you go to far off places to cruise for any length of time, where do you usually find places to keep truck and trailer while your cruising? What tow vehicle for approx. 2300 + 1000-1500 (trailer) + motor and gear = 4500 pounds? Would a Ford F150 class of truck work? towing cap. is roughly 8000 pounds. Or are there other factors to consider? Any other advise, considerations, gotchyas? Thanks, Steve
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Stan
to trailer - hope so
Steve, Can't help w/ the value of the trailer. Just got my boat, w/ trailer. It's in a slip, and I haven't trailered it yet. Previous owner made several trips...usually two or three a year to various spots around the area. I plan to do the same next season. Plus, the trailer makes putting the boat in/out and storage easier and cheaper. Your vehicle choice should be fine...plenty of towing capicity. You are on the right track figuring out the loads, be sure to allow enough for gear, fuel, water, etc., they add up quick. Good Luck!
Steve, Can't help w/ the value of the trailer. Just got my boat, w/ trailer. It's in a slip, and I haven't trailered it yet. Previous owner made several trips...usually two or three a year to various spots around the area. I plan to do the same next season. Plus, the trailer makes putting the boat in/out and storage easier and cheaper. Your vehicle choice should be fine...plenty of towing capicity. You are on the right track figuring out the loads, be sure to allow enough for gear, fuel, water, etc., they add up quick. Good Luck!
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Barry Lenoble
trailering
Hello, I bought my boat, a Catalina 22, back in July. I don't have a slip or mooring, so I trailer it every time. I have a 12' tongue extension, which works well and makes launching and retrieving easier. I have a swing keel, so you will definately need a long tongue extension. Regarding tow vehicle, I use a Honda Ody, which is OK but not great. If I were going to travel long distances I would want a larger vehicle. Towing is OK, but not a real joy. You will want to take your time and make sure everything is tied down nicely before taking a long trip. Raising the mast is and the other rigging is the biggest pain, if you can do that, then trailering will be OK. The boat ramps in my area have parking where you can leave the trailer. Good luck, Barry
Hello, I bought my boat, a Catalina 22, back in July. I don't have a slip or mooring, so I trailer it every time. I have a 12' tongue extension, which works well and makes launching and retrieving easier. I have a swing keel, so you will definately need a long tongue extension. Regarding tow vehicle, I use a Honda Ody, which is OK but not great. If I were going to travel long distances I would want a larger vehicle. Towing is OK, but not a real joy. You will want to take your time and make sure everything is tied down nicely before taking a long trip. Raising the mast is and the other rigging is the biggest pain, if you can do that, then trailering will be OK. The boat ramps in my area have parking where you can leave the trailer. Good luck, Barry
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Bob
I Trailer
We recently trailered our Hunter 23.5 wing keel 300 miles for a two night outing. With my Chevy 1500 we had NO problem doing interstate speeds. We stepped the mast in the parking lot (checking FIRST of overhead lines) sailed for 3 days with the truck and trailer in their lot. My next trip may be farther away and BIGGER water. I see many advantages to having a trailer for your boat. As mentioned earlier, it should pay for itself in hauling and storage fees in the off season. I've not had to use my tongue extender yet. Bob SV Miss Lisa
We recently trailered our Hunter 23.5 wing keel 300 miles for a two night outing. With my Chevy 1500 we had NO problem doing interstate speeds. We stepped the mast in the parking lot (checking FIRST of overhead lines) sailed for 3 days with the truck and trailer in their lot. My next trip may be farther away and BIGGER water. I see many advantages to having a trailer for your boat. As mentioned earlier, it should pay for itself in hauling and storage fees in the off season. I've not had to use my tongue extender yet. Bob SV Miss Lisa
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Mark
Trailor
Get yourself set up with one. We trailor our 260 for miles and miles some weekends. Finding inland lakes and rivers.
Get yourself set up with one. We trailor our 260 for miles and miles some weekends. Finding inland lakes and rivers.
Go for it
I trailer a Hunter 23 that also has a fixed wing-keel, and I've seen more than one Beneteau 23.5 on a trailer, so I know it can be done. MagicTilt trailers are pretty inexpensive and the bunks can be adjusted to fit almost any 20 to 24 ft sailboat. You may need a crane or travelift to pick the boat up and hold it just above the trailer until you get the bunks adjusted properly. There are all KINDS of tips in the forum archives for trailering boats and raising masts. Most of these originated in the Smaller Boats Forum. The BoatUS website may also have tips on how to have a successful road trip. Here are a few more suggestions: 1) your tow-vehicle should have a heavy-duty trailer hitch (bolted to the frame, not the rear bumper) and transmission cooler. Do not tow in overdrive unless you are on flat land. It will damage the lock-up torque converter. Disregard if you have a manual transmission. 2) never tow without a spare trailer tire, spare trailer hub assembly all greased and ready to go, wheel chocks, a decent lug wrench, bearing protectors, a grease gun, rags and some work gloves. Some flares, a few pieces of scrap carpet and a safety orange vest are also useful. I keep all that stuff in a large plastic bin that rides in the tow vehicle. 3) do not secure the boat on the trailer with a single strap at the rear. I had two two-inch straps with heavy-duty ratchets custom-made at a lifting and rigging shop. They have loops that fit over the winches and clip on to the trailer frame. They keep the boat from twisting on the trailer, which a single strap can't do. 4) do not rely on the bow eye strap. Get a second strap that can be fastened over the bow. 5) Stop after the first couple of miles and check the wheel hubs. If they're hot, you may have a problem with the wheel bearings. Inject some grease into the bearing protectors with the grease gun. Drive another couple of miles and check again. If they're still hot turn around and go home, and fix the problem. It beats sitting on the side of the highway. On a long trip, stop and check the hubs every two hours. Inject grease or replace hub if necessary. 6) Before you back the trailer into the water, disconnect the wiring harness from the tow vehicle. This prevents the brake lights from going on and prevents the thermal shock from breaking the bulbs. Don't believe the hype about "waterproof" lights. keep some spare bulbs as well, and don't forget to reconnect the harness and make sure all the lights work before you hit the road. 7) buy a roll of plastic surveyors flagging, It's cheap and very handy for securing shrouds and stays to the mast for the trip. It beats duct tape, electrical tape and old dry cleaning bags. The bright color also alerts following vehicles. I'll stop now, don't want to make this post TOO long. Happy trails. Peter H23 "Raven"
I trailer a Hunter 23 that also has a fixed wing-keel, and I've seen more than one Beneteau 23.5 on a trailer, so I know it can be done. MagicTilt trailers are pretty inexpensive and the bunks can be adjusted to fit almost any 20 to 24 ft sailboat. You may need a crane or travelift to pick the boat up and hold it just above the trailer until you get the bunks adjusted properly. There are all KINDS of tips in the forum archives for trailering boats and raising masts. Most of these originated in the Smaller Boats Forum. The BoatUS website may also have tips on how to have a successful road trip. Here are a few more suggestions: 1) your tow-vehicle should have a heavy-duty trailer hitch (bolted to the frame, not the rear bumper) and transmission cooler. Do not tow in overdrive unless you are on flat land. It will damage the lock-up torque converter. Disregard if you have a manual transmission. 2) never tow without a spare trailer tire, spare trailer hub assembly all greased and ready to go, wheel chocks, a decent lug wrench, bearing protectors, a grease gun, rags and some work gloves. Some flares, a few pieces of scrap carpet and a safety orange vest are also useful. I keep all that stuff in a large plastic bin that rides in the tow vehicle. 3) do not secure the boat on the trailer with a single strap at the rear. I had two two-inch straps with heavy-duty ratchets custom-made at a lifting and rigging shop. They have loops that fit over the winches and clip on to the trailer frame. They keep the boat from twisting on the trailer, which a single strap can't do. 4) do not rely on the bow eye strap. Get a second strap that can be fastened over the bow. 5) Stop after the first couple of miles and check the wheel hubs. If they're hot, you may have a problem with the wheel bearings. Inject some grease into the bearing protectors with the grease gun. Drive another couple of miles and check again. If they're still hot turn around and go home, and fix the problem. It beats sitting on the side of the highway. On a long trip, stop and check the hubs every two hours. Inject grease or replace hub if necessary. 6) Before you back the trailer into the water, disconnect the wiring harness from the tow vehicle. This prevents the brake lights from going on and prevents the thermal shock from breaking the bulbs. Don't believe the hype about "waterproof" lights. keep some spare bulbs as well, and don't forget to reconnect the harness and make sure all the lights work before you hit the road. 7) buy a roll of plastic surveyors flagging, It's cheap and very handy for securing shrouds and stays to the mast for the trip. It beats duct tape, electrical tape and old dry cleaning bags. The bright color also alerts following vehicles. I'll stop now, don't want to make this post TOO long. Happy trails. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Frank Ladd
Peter is right!
I'd definately get the trailer for three day hoilidays take one vacation day and have a blast. For weeklong or two week excursions to foreign states it is wonderful. Every time I tell the big boat owners in there 35 footers where I've been they comment that they wish they could do that. They are stuck at the lake all year unless they want to move to the coast or another lake next year.
I'd definately get the trailer for three day hoilidays take one vacation day and have a blast. For weeklong or two week excursions to foreign states it is wonderful. Every time I tell the big boat owners in there 35 footers where I've been they comment that they wish they could do that. They are stuck at the lake all year unless they want to move to the coast or another lake next year.
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Bob
Add to Peter's great tips
the practice of tieing down and/or padding everything that can rub or chafe, especially where metal is touching fiberglass. Also, when you step the mast, tape the turnbuckles in a vertical position to keep them from kinking.
the practice of tieing down and/or padding everything that can rub or chafe, especially where metal is touching fiberglass. Also, when you step the mast, tape the turnbuckles in a vertical position to keep them from kinking.
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