I have just acquired a Hunter 30 (1981), and the exterior teak needs some attention. It is in the water at this time. I would like to start to work on the teak, but I do not know if I should since it is cold now (40-55 degrees F.) . What are the weather considerations regarding teak maintenance? Also, I an new to the Teak world, so any pointers would be appreciated.
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Too cold?
Hi Fred, you will get lots of advice on this question. Most of it will be to get rid of the teak. Many have replaced the grab rails with stainless and painted over the trunk trim. But I bought an old Hunter(1979) because of the teak(among other things). It won't be a classic any longer if I remove it. Personally I would want a couple of 60+ degree days before I varnished. But if it's just cleaning and oiling someone else will have to chime in, I only varnish.
Hi Fred, you will get lots of advice on this question. Most of it will be to get rid of the teak. Many have replaced the grab rails with stainless and painted over the trunk trim. But I bought an old Hunter(1979) because of the teak(among other things). It won't be a classic any longer if I remove it. Personally I would want a couple of 60+ degree days before I varnished. But if it's just cleaning and oiling someone else will have to chime in, I only varnish.
Under 2' of snow!
My Hunter is now under 2' of snow so I guess I will have to wait for spring to do my teak.
My Hunter is now under 2' of snow so I guess I will have to wait for spring to do my teak.
TEAK
WHEN I HAD TEAK I NEVER VARNINSED IT. THE ONLY THING I DID WAS FIRST USE THE TWO PART CLEANER--AND THERE IS A PRODUCT THAT COMES IN THREE SHADES AND ABOUT 3 COATS OF THAT WAS GREAT AND IF YOU PUT ONE COAT EACH YEAR YOUR PROBLEMS ARE OVER AND IT LOOKS GOOD. YOU ONLY UES THE SHADE YOU LIKE,A LOT OF PEOPLE USE IT
WHEN I HAD TEAK I NEVER VARNINSED IT. THE ONLY THING I DID WAS FIRST USE THE TWO PART CLEANER--AND THERE IS A PRODUCT THAT COMES IN THREE SHADES AND ABOUT 3 COATS OF THAT WAS GREAT AND IF YOU PUT ONE COAT EACH YEAR YOUR PROBLEMS ARE OVER AND IT LOOKS GOOD. YOU ONLY UES THE SHADE YOU LIKE,A LOT OF PEOPLE USE IT
One of many suggestions you will get from boaters
The number of suggestions out there equals the number of boats. I like the look of dark teak. I use a teak cleaner followed by two aplications of teak oil. I allow the oil to soak in and wipe the excess. I do this 2x a year (early spring and in the fall as part of my winterizing).Prior to the fall application I rub the teak with 0000-00000 steel wool to remove surface particles. I like this finish over the glossy appearance of varnished or poly-ed teak.
The number of suggestions out there equals the number of boats. I like the look of dark teak. I use a teak cleaner followed by two aplications of teak oil. I allow the oil to soak in and wipe the excess. I do this 2x a year (early spring and in the fall as part of my winterizing).Prior to the fall application I rub the teak with 0000-00000 steel wool to remove surface particles. I like this finish over the glossy appearance of varnished or poly-ed teak.
Nice winter project.
Here's a suggestion for you that might make a nice winter project. Take the handrails and other parts off the boat. Take them home to a nice warm shop and, using them for templates, cut out NEW pieces– out of MAHOGHANY!!! Think of the advantages– that beautiful rich red colour, much better weatherproof properties, and a farewell to that awful oily teak that goes black, white, grey, brown, whatever. The secret to ALL exterior woodwork, even when there is not a lot of it, is WEST-system saturation epoxy. Thin some out with acetone and 'paint' it over the piece (on some paper, on the floor or driveway– don't get it on you. Use a mask). Do it again. Then sand it lightly. Using something really good like ZSpar Captain's Varnish (it must have a UV-inhibitor) give it at least three good coats, sanding between them, before reinstalling on the boat. Use a very good bedding compound and all-stainless fasteners. It will stay nice with just wax or Star-Brite for years. Even if you elect to keep the teak, finishing it with epoxy and varnish will work wonders for looks and endurance in the elements. How do you think all that brightwork on a Cherubini 44 gets to look and stay that way? (except we'd varnish about 9 coats, not merely 3!) JC
Here's a suggestion for you that might make a nice winter project. Take the handrails and other parts off the boat. Take them home to a nice warm shop and, using them for templates, cut out NEW pieces– out of MAHOGHANY!!! Think of the advantages– that beautiful rich red colour, much better weatherproof properties, and a farewell to that awful oily teak that goes black, white, grey, brown, whatever. The secret to ALL exterior woodwork, even when there is not a lot of it, is WEST-system saturation epoxy. Thin some out with acetone and 'paint' it over the piece (on some paper, on the floor or driveway– don't get it on you. Use a mask). Do it again. Then sand it lightly. Using something really good like ZSpar Captain's Varnish (it must have a UV-inhibitor) give it at least three good coats, sanding between them, before reinstalling on the boat. Use a very good bedding compound and all-stainless fasteners. It will stay nice with just wax or Star-Brite for years. Even if you elect to keep the teak, finishing it with epoxy and varnish will work wonders for looks and endurance in the elements. How do you think all that brightwork on a Cherubini 44 gets to look and stay that way? (except we'd varnish about 9 coats, not merely 3!) JC
Nice winter project.
Here's a suggestion for you that might make a nice winter project. Take the handrails and other parts off the boat. Take them home to a nice warm shop and, using them for templates, cut out NEW pieces– out of MAHOGHANY!!! Think of the advantages– that beautiful rich red colour, much better weatherproof properties, and a farewell to that awful oily teak that goes black, white, grey, brown, whatever. The secret to ALL exterior woodwork, even when there is not a lot of it, is WEST-system saturation epoxy. Thin some out with acetone and 'paint' it over the piece (on some paper, on the floor or driveway– don't get it on you. Use a mask). Do it again. Then sand it lightly. Using something really good like ZSpar Captain's Varnish (it must have a UV-inhibitor) give it at least three good coats, sanding between them, before reinstalling on the boat. Use a very good bedding compound and all-stainless fasteners. It will stay nice with just wax or Star-Brite for years. Even if you elect to keep the teak, finishing it with epoxy and varnish will work wonders for looks and endurance in the elements. How do you think all that brightwork on a Cherubini 44 gets to look and stay that way? (except we'd varnish about 9 coats, not merely 3!) JC
Here's a suggestion for you that might make a nice winter project. Take the handrails and other parts off the boat. Take them home to a nice warm shop and, using them for templates, cut out NEW pieces– out of MAHOGHANY!!! Think of the advantages– that beautiful rich red colour, much better weatherproof properties, and a farewell to that awful oily teak that goes black, white, grey, brown, whatever. The secret to ALL exterior woodwork, even when there is not a lot of it, is WEST-system saturation epoxy. Thin some out with acetone and 'paint' it over the piece (on some paper, on the floor or driveway– don't get it on you. Use a mask). Do it again. Then sand it lightly. Using something really good like ZSpar Captain's Varnish (it must have a UV-inhibitor) give it at least three good coats, sanding between them, before reinstalling on the boat. Use a very good bedding compound and all-stainless fasteners. It will stay nice with just wax or Star-Brite for years. Even if you elect to keep the teak, finishing it with epoxy and varnish will work wonders for looks and endurance in the elements. How do you think all that brightwork on a Cherubini 44 gets to look and stay that way? (except we'd varnish about 9 coats, not merely 3!) JC
CHECK OUT THIS ARTICLE!!!
there is a great article on sailnet.com, written by larry and sue. it will explain all the necessary steps to redoing woodwork and the best products to use. i am redoing all the exterior teak on my oday 222 and it is turning out beautifully. people comment i'm crazy to even consider putting 10 coats of varnish on my woodwork and there's no use arguing, they should read this article. to find the info go to the sailnet.com site and under the search category type in 'brightwork' and it will list about 12 articles to read. the one by larry and sue is titled 'brightwork varnishing on a new surface'. i have followed their instructions to the letter and am on my third coat of varnish. it is alot of hard work to get the bare wood, lots of sanding by hand, but once you get all the prep work done the varnishing part is alot of fun. so many passersby commented that i shouldn't waste time taping off the areas i was varnishing, they considered it a waste of time. i guess they are a whole lot better at painting than me, i've found it quite a timesaver. the blue tape they recommend for taping off areas does not leave sticky adhesive residue behind and has worked great! anyway, i found their article very, very useful and thorough. i made my list up of supplies after reading it and found everything they suggested, especially like the epifanes varnish they mentioned. it is easy to work with. i am going to do 10 coats. the back of the can suggests for tropical climates to do this as well so their advice jives with larry and sue's article. they say the key is enough initial coats at first, then maintain that every three to four months by light sanding and revarnishing with 2 more coats. if you are willing to keep up with the maintenance then go for it. the final products speaks for itself! good luck! ps the folks that have had the least success with varnish have told me they just did 2 or 3 coats and couldn't believe how quickly it chipped and cracked and peeled. after 3 coats it does LOOK shiny and pretty but those extra 7 coats more are what seals it and protects it from the elements and are a very necessary step.
there is a great article on sailnet.com, written by larry and sue. it will explain all the necessary steps to redoing woodwork and the best products to use. i am redoing all the exterior teak on my oday 222 and it is turning out beautifully. people comment i'm crazy to even consider putting 10 coats of varnish on my woodwork and there's no use arguing, they should read this article. to find the info go to the sailnet.com site and under the search category type in 'brightwork' and it will list about 12 articles to read. the one by larry and sue is titled 'brightwork varnishing on a new surface'. i have followed their instructions to the letter and am on my third coat of varnish. it is alot of hard work to get the bare wood, lots of sanding by hand, but once you get all the prep work done the varnishing part is alot of fun. so many passersby commented that i shouldn't waste time taping off the areas i was varnishing, they considered it a waste of time. i guess they are a whole lot better at painting than me, i've found it quite a timesaver. the blue tape they recommend for taping off areas does not leave sticky adhesive residue behind and has worked great! anyway, i found their article very, very useful and thorough. i made my list up of supplies after reading it and found everything they suggested, especially like the epifanes varnish they mentioned. it is easy to work with. i am going to do 10 coats. the back of the can suggests for tropical climates to do this as well so their advice jives with larry and sue's article. they say the key is enough initial coats at first, then maintain that every three to four months by light sanding and revarnishing with 2 more coats. if you are willing to keep up with the maintenance then go for it. the final products speaks for itself! good luck! ps the folks that have had the least success with varnish have told me they just did 2 or 3 coats and couldn't believe how quickly it chipped and cracked and peeled. after 3 coats it does LOOK shiny and pretty but those extra 7 coats more are what seals it and protects it from the elements and are a very necessary step.
Thank you
Thanks for all of the responses. I will be heading out to the boat shortly, and thanks to you I have a new set of ideas to help me get started. Thanks again !
Thanks for all of the responses. I will be heading out to the boat shortly, and thanks to you I have a new set of ideas to help me get started. Thanks again !
One more suggestion
I am a varnish snob to the tenth degree. You have a lot of good advice here but one more suggestion to look at is a product called "Bristol." They're out of FL and I've seen it advertised in the back of a couple different mags. It claims to have the lasting qualities of Cetol (yuck!) with the appearance of varnish. I have a couple of friends who swear by it & they're bigger snobs than me! A note of caution about using epoxy as a sealer: It definitely works BUT if you ever neglect to add a coat of varnish, the UVs from the sun will break down that epoxy and cause quite a sight. Removing it will be almost impossible so unless you've committed yourself to keeping that varnish up, don't use the epoxy. At least varnish will come off on its own...eventually. LaDonna
I am a varnish snob to the tenth degree. You have a lot of good advice here but one more suggestion to look at is a product called "Bristol." They're out of FL and I've seen it advertised in the back of a couple different mags. It claims to have the lasting qualities of Cetol (yuck!) with the appearance of varnish. I have a couple of friends who swear by it & they're bigger snobs than me! A note of caution about using epoxy as a sealer: It definitely works BUT if you ever neglect to add a coat of varnish, the UVs from the sun will break down that epoxy and cause quite a sight. Removing it will be almost impossible so unless you've committed yourself to keeping that varnish up, don't use the epoxy. At least varnish will come off on its own...eventually. LaDonna
LaDonna, can you give me more info on this
LaDonna, You have caught my attention with this. My new (to me) Cat 36 has horrible teak on it. All the varnish has worn off and looks terrible. My broker has suggested Cetol. If this stuff is better looking and just as painless, please let me know more. Thanks, Les Murray C36 Ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee not sea lid)
LaDonna, You have caught my attention with this. My new (to me) Cat 36 has horrible teak on it. All the varnish has worn off and looks terrible. My broker has suggested Cetol. If this stuff is better looking and just as painless, please let me know more. Thanks, Les Murray C36 Ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee not sea lid)
Cetol vs. varnish
Most people that i know that have used cetol swear that it looks just as clear as varnish and yet when im looking at it, it looks like brown thinned paint. Better go and look at some cetoled boats yourself...THERE IS A DEFFINATE VISUAL DIFERENCE... you owe it to yourself and your boat. Who knows , you may like the look of cetol, and thats ok, but it doesnt look clear like varnish.
Most people that i know that have used cetol swear that it looks just as clear as varnish and yet when im looking at it, it looks like brown thinned paint. Better go and look at some cetoled boats yourself...THERE IS A DEFFINATE VISUAL DIFERENCE... you owe it to yourself and your boat. Who knows , you may like the look of cetol, and thats ok, but it doesnt look clear like varnish.
Never use steel wool on a boat. Never.
Use bronze wool instead. Don't allow steel wool on the boat. It is evil stuff. Little bits will fall off and rust.
Use bronze wool instead. Don't allow steel wool on the boat. It is evil stuff. Little bits will fall off and rust.
Answer to Les
That is what I've *heard*. I can't give first hand experience but a friend who is just as big a snob as me is letting his spar varnish go so he can refinish with Bristol. I have heard nothing but praise (from several different folks). They say it has the upkeep properties of Cetol with the clarity of varnish. Only way to know for sure is to try it out - and it ain't cheap! Check out the back of CW or Sail. I'm sure I saw an ad in one for it (very small - maybe in classifieds). Let me know if you can't find it - I'll bug my friend. LaDonna
That is what I've *heard*. I can't give first hand experience but a friend who is just as big a snob as me is letting his spar varnish go so he can refinish with Bristol. I have heard nothing but praise (from several different folks). They say it has the upkeep properties of Cetol with the clarity of varnish. Only way to know for sure is to try it out - and it ain't cheap! Check out the back of CW or Sail. I'm sure I saw an ad in one for it (very small - maybe in classifieds). Let me know if you can't find it - I'll bug my friend. LaDonna
Been There: where the @&# do I buy bronze wool?
It sure sounds like the stuff to use. However, I don't recall ever seeing it anywhere. Instead, we have been using stainless steel wool, with pretty good success. Not that I like varnishing; I try to stay away from it. Nothing more beautiful than nicely "silvered" teak in my eyes. However, the co-skipper disagrees with me on that issue; so she has absolute control over all the varnishing on board.
)) Flying Dutchman
It sure sounds like the stuff to use. However, I don't recall ever seeing it anywhere. Instead, we have been using stainless steel wool, with pretty good success. Not that I like varnishing; I try to stay away from it. Nothing more beautiful than nicely "silvered" teak in my eyes. However, the co-skipper disagrees with me on that issue; so she has absolute control over all the varnishing on board.
)) Flying DutchmanBronze wool is available from most hardware stores
West Marine, BOAT/US etc also sell it. Steel wool rusts, but bronze wool doesn't...however, they both Both "shed" little bits of metal all over the place when you use 'em. If you use steel wool, you'll be forever finding little rust stains in the strangest places... problem you don't have if you use bronze wool. I won't even have steel wool pads in my galley for this reason.
West Marine, BOAT/US etc also sell it. Steel wool rusts, but bronze wool doesn't...however, they both Both "shed" little bits of metal all over the place when you use 'em. If you use steel wool, you'll be forever finding little rust stains in the strangest places... problem you don't have if you use bronze wool. I won't even have steel wool pads in my galley for this reason.
Bronze wool
You can find it in West Marine. Don't know how the price compares with Home Depot but I've bought it there on many occasions. Not very expensive at all. There are different grades - I've never used it on wood, only on brass when it's badly tarnished (use extra fine for this). LaDonna
You can find it in West Marine. Don't know how the price compares with Home Depot but I've bought it there on many occasions. Not very expensive at all. There are different grades - I've never used it on wood, only on brass when it's badly tarnished (use extra fine for this). LaDonna
Ditto on no use steel wool
My pitted aluminum toe rail reminds me of my error every time I look at it.
My pitted aluminum toe rail reminds me of my error every time I look at it.
Teak Pointers
In response to your question about pointers on doing teak work, I usually start by using a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the teak. I'll give it a quick rub-down with some acetone on a rag to remove any old teak stain. Next, I'll apply a light coat of teak stain, such as Gold Tone, with a sponge brush. I wipe off any excess stain. This gives a nicer brown for the teak. I'll let it dry for about half an hour and apply a second coat and wipe off any excess. Depending upon how weathered the teak is, you may need more coats of stain. This method has worked pretty well for me and it lasts the entire season.
In response to your question about pointers on doing teak work, I usually start by using a fine grit sandpaper to smooth out the teak. I'll give it a quick rub-down with some acetone on a rag to remove any old teak stain. Next, I'll apply a light coat of teak stain, such as Gold Tone, with a sponge brush. I wipe off any excess stain. This gives a nicer brown for the teak. I'll let it dry for about half an hour and apply a second coat and wipe off any excess. Depending upon how weathered the teak is, you may need more coats of stain. This method has worked pretty well for me and it lasts the entire season.
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