I have a newly acquired (just finished first season) 21 year old boat. The boat was not shrink wrapped last winter and seemed to have survived well. Should I go to the expense of shrinkwrapping or perhaps some other type of cover to minimize entry of water into the cabin? I realize that if I do not cover, I may gave to go to the boat after a snowfall and shovel out the cockpit. Comments please... Roy
To shrinkwrap or Not to shrinkwrap?
- Thread starter Roy Udwin
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don't shrink
Roy; I live in So. Cal. and don't have your problem, but I've read that you shouldn't shrinkwrap a boat for winter storage because it restricts air flow and will lead to mildew. Build some kind of frame over the boat with PVC pipe, cover it with a big tarp and tie it down securely.
Roy; I live in So. Cal. and don't have your problem, but I've read that you shouldn't shrinkwrap a boat for winter storage because it restricts air flow and will lead to mildew. Build some kind of frame over the boat with PVC pipe, cover it with a big tarp and tie it down securely.
At least cover it
If standing water gets into anything on deck and then freezes start subtracting years from the life of your boat or be ready to do extensive repairs every couple of years. Wrapping is not a gimmick thought up by boatyards to increase revenue. If you do not want to pay for wrapping, then at least cover with a tarp and allow to ventilate. P.S. If you really want to destroy stuff, pressure wash the sails! Tim R.
If standing water gets into anything on deck and then freezes start subtracting years from the life of your boat or be ready to do extensive repairs every couple of years. Wrapping is not a gimmick thought up by boatyards to increase revenue. If you do not want to pay for wrapping, then at least cover with a tarp and allow to ventilate. P.S. If you really want to destroy stuff, pressure wash the sails! Tim R.
Shrinkwrap OK...
...but vent it. I have shrink wrapped my boat for the last 11 years with no problems. Just allow a vent in the front and back for air to pass thru. I have even put vents on the sides of the wrap. Also leave a port cracked-open to allow more air to pass thru. Your boat will stay nice and dry. There really IS a method to the madness! Sometimes there is a "natural" vent such as gaps in the wrap at the bow or stern. Theses are helpful, but just watch out for nesting birds in the spring.
...but vent it. I have shrink wrapped my boat for the last 11 years with no problems. Just allow a vent in the front and back for air to pass thru. I have even put vents on the sides of the wrap. Also leave a port cracked-open to allow more air to pass thru. Your boat will stay nice and dry. There really IS a method to the madness! Sometimes there is a "natural" vent such as gaps in the wrap at the bow or stern. Theses are helpful, but just watch out for nesting birds in the spring.
Shrinkwrap.....Stinkwrap!
Use a "blue tarp" It allows much needed air flow to reduce mildue and etc. Also, its alot cheaper, I get a good 5-7 years out of my "blue tarp."
Use a "blue tarp" It allows much needed air flow to reduce mildue and etc. Also, its alot cheaper, I get a good 5-7 years out of my "blue tarp."
Shrinkwrap doesn't blow around.
Granted, SW is not cheap if you have it done by the marina. There are subcontractors out there that will do it cheaper. But I have seen many blue tarps shredded and unuseable half way thru the winter. If used, they must be wrapped tightly and very, very secure. Then it must be checked periodically to avoid puddle and snow buildup which tends to stick to the tarp due to the weave of the fabric. IF you get more than a year out of one then you are doing very good. They are not UV protected and tend to rip after a couple months of time in the sun. Maybe in the more northern climes this may not be a problem - 3 months and right in the middle of winter. SW sheds water and snow , is UV resistant, doesn't flap in the wind, is recyclable and doesn't "stink". Enough said! *box Oh, I have a L37 and because I do it myself, it only cost me about $75-$90 to do mine (plus beer). I bought a torch gun with 4 friends and we help one another out doing them. Other than the cost, I'd like to know what are the "too many potential problems"? I don't know of any.
Granted, SW is not cheap if you have it done by the marina. There are subcontractors out there that will do it cheaper. But I have seen many blue tarps shredded and unuseable half way thru the winter. If used, they must be wrapped tightly and very, very secure. Then it must be checked periodically to avoid puddle and snow buildup which tends to stick to the tarp due to the weave of the fabric. IF you get more than a year out of one then you are doing very good. They are not UV protected and tend to rip after a couple months of time in the sun. Maybe in the more northern climes this may not be a problem - 3 months and right in the middle of winter. SW sheds water and snow , is UV resistant, doesn't flap in the wind, is recyclable and doesn't "stink". Enough said! *box Oh, I have a L37 and because I do it myself, it only cost me about $75-$90 to do mine (plus beer). I bought a torch gun with 4 friends and we help one another out doing them. Other than the cost, I'd like to know what are the "too many potential problems"? I don't know of any.
It Destroys AwlGrip
unless it is done absoltely right. If your boat is AwlGripped, don't use shrink wrap and have it seal to the hull. If shrink wrap is tight against the painted surface, the paint will bubble off (probably due to high local humidity between the shrinkwrap and the hull). With the expense of AwlGrip, you really have to be careful to prevent this. This caveat probably applies to any painted surface, although Gelcoat seems to not mind direct contact with the shrinkwrap. Personally, I bought a custom canvass cover and use it instead of shrinkwrap or blue tarps (although I did use blue tarps for several years). After a few years, you reach the break-even point, and you don't have to worry about recycling the shrinkwrap. Steve Alchemist #909
unless it is done absoltely right. If your boat is AwlGripped, don't use shrink wrap and have it seal to the hull. If shrink wrap is tight against the painted surface, the paint will bubble off (probably due to high local humidity between the shrinkwrap and the hull). With the expense of AwlGrip, you really have to be careful to prevent this. This caveat probably applies to any painted surface, although Gelcoat seems to not mind direct contact with the shrinkwrap. Personally, I bought a custom canvass cover and use it instead of shrinkwrap or blue tarps (although I did use blue tarps for several years). After a few years, you reach the break-even point, and you don't have to worry about recycling the shrinkwrap. Steve Alchemist #909
Buried in snow
Unless you have a very meticulously maintained 21-year-old boat, I fail to see the need for shrink wrapping. Our boat is the same age and I did tent a cover over the boom with a tarp and also covered the hatches. In the early winter rain, it worked fine. By the end of January, the cockpit was buried in snow for the remainder of the winter. No leaks, no apparent change in condition, no problems. Several of the grommets were torn off by the end of the winter, so I will try to find a tarp that is more substantial this year. If I had a brand spanking new boat (or if it looked like it), I would probably think differently.
Unless you have a very meticulously maintained 21-year-old boat, I fail to see the need for shrink wrapping. Our boat is the same age and I did tent a cover over the boom with a tarp and also covered the hatches. In the early winter rain, it worked fine. By the end of January, the cockpit was buried in snow for the remainder of the winter. No leaks, no apparent change in condition, no problems. Several of the grommets were torn off by the end of the winter, so I will try to find a tarp that is more substantial this year. If I had a brand spanking new boat (or if it looked like it), I would probably think differently.
Went to AwlGrip Site and found:
Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 winter storage Do not "shrink wrap" or tightly bind Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat surfaces with plastic wrappings. When tarping a boat for storage, the cover system should be ventilated to allow the coating system to "breathe". Covers and tarps, whether synthetic or natural fiber, should not be pulled tight to surfaces painted with Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat. This condition can trap and hold moisture on the surface and may result in loss of gloss, blistering, or delamination of the topcoat. Caution should also be used to ensure that the tarp does not chafe against the Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Surface. Such chafing, especially when accompanied by airborne dirt, can abrade the surface and cause premature loss of gloss.
Awlgrip and Awlcraft 2000 winter storage Do not "shrink wrap" or tightly bind Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat surfaces with plastic wrappings. When tarping a boat for storage, the cover system should be ventilated to allow the coating system to "breathe". Covers and tarps, whether synthetic or natural fiber, should not be pulled tight to surfaces painted with Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat. This condition can trap and hold moisture on the surface and may result in loss of gloss, blistering, or delamination of the topcoat. Caution should also be used to ensure that the tarp does not chafe against the Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000 Surface. Such chafing, especially when accompanied by airborne dirt, can abrade the surface and cause premature loss of gloss.
This tarp has lasted 4 seasons
of snow and freezing temps with 50+ winds coming of of Lake Erie. It keeps the snow and winter crud out of the cockpit and protects the cabin ports. Cost me about $60 with all the plastic framing and ropes. plenty of ventilation, my brother had his power boat SW and i could not believe the condensation, and mildew it produced when we took the stuff off in the spring. Cost$ from year to year to put it on, If your boat is in a fantastic condition then have a custom cover made. What size boat do you have?
of snow and freezing temps with 50+ winds coming of of Lake Erie. It keeps the snow and winter crud out of the cockpit and protects the cabin ports. Cost me about $60 with all the plastic framing and ropes. plenty of ventilation, my brother had his power boat SW and i could not believe the condensation, and mildew it produced when we took the stuff off in the spring. Cost$ from year to year to put it on, If your boat is in a fantastic condition then have a custom cover made. What size boat do you have?
It Depends on .....
your location, snow load and wind. Every year we watch fools spend hours stringing blue tarps with line and duct tape only to see wind and snow tear then up. Other fools reuse the tired old tarps for more than one season. As the tarps flex they shed blue stands and their boats are dirtier than boats left with no covers in spring. When they blow and constantly move they chafe the boat and the aluminum grommets damage the gelcoat finish. My Hunter leaked in several places. I know that water getting in tight areas and cracks would freeze and make the leaks worse. I bought a shrink wrap gun and could cover my boat in four hours by myself for under fifty bucks. The covers never failed and were properly vented during installation. My old boat wasn't worth buying a custom canvas cover which costs over $100/foot.
your location, snow load and wind. Every year we watch fools spend hours stringing blue tarps with line and duct tape only to see wind and snow tear then up. Other fools reuse the tired old tarps for more than one season. As the tarps flex they shed blue stands and their boats are dirtier than boats left with no covers in spring. When they blow and constantly move they chafe the boat and the aluminum grommets damage the gelcoat finish. My Hunter leaked in several places. I know that water getting in tight areas and cracks would freeze and make the leaks worse. I bought a shrink wrap gun and could cover my boat in four hours by myself for under fifty bucks. The covers never failed and were properly vented during installation. My old boat wasn't worth buying a custom canvas cover which costs over $100/foot.
Bone dry every year
I have a C30 and i cover it with a 30x40 blue tarp light in color so son comes thrue .I made ply wood trusses out of ply wood 3/4 ".there is one truss for each standtion and a pole for the frount and the hole thing hooks to a solar pannel arch over the rear pulpit.There is a 3/8 rope that runs frount to back on both sides and 1x6 pine board for the top to hold them together.The edges of the boards are covered with fome pipe cover and ziptied.The trusses are 4" wider then the boat and the tarp dose not lay on the side of the boat at all I can stand in the cockpit and work on top of the cabin .I keep the tarp snug but not tight. when the wind blows the snow slides off.I keep a large computer fan piped thru a solar fan hole and it runs all day I use a new tarp every year but never had one holed or faded by the sun .I am a contractor and use the tarp on jobs all year round.PS This is the first weekend home since april what are we all going to do till spring??????? John
I have a C30 and i cover it with a 30x40 blue tarp light in color so son comes thrue .I made ply wood trusses out of ply wood 3/4 ".there is one truss for each standtion and a pole for the frount and the hole thing hooks to a solar pannel arch over the rear pulpit.There is a 3/8 rope that runs frount to back on both sides and 1x6 pine board for the top to hold them together.The edges of the boards are covered with fome pipe cover and ziptied.The trusses are 4" wider then the boat and the tarp dose not lay on the side of the boat at all I can stand in the cockpit and work on top of the cabin .I keep the tarp snug but not tight. when the wind blows the snow slides off.I keep a large computer fan piped thru a solar fan hole and it runs all day I use a new tarp every year but never had one holed or faded by the sun .I am a contractor and use the tarp on jobs all year round.PS This is the first weekend home since april what are we all going to do till spring??????? John
New blue tarps next year
Have used these tarps for 5 years. As long as they are tight & don't flap due to the wind, they are suitable. The mast is the ridge pole. Wooden joists over the cockpit to support the tarp. Stantions & spreader removed. Tarps tucked in between the hull & trailer bunks. The snow slides off. Jentine/Jim, we don't have "water year round" up here! Wish we did! C22.
Have used these tarps for 5 years. As long as they are tight & don't flap due to the wind, they are suitable. The mast is the ridge pole. Wooden joists over the cockpit to support the tarp. Stantions & spreader removed. Tarps tucked in between the hull & trailer bunks. The snow slides off. Jentine/Jim, we don't have "water year round" up here! Wish we did! C22.
Tarps work fine for me
I have opted for the tarps and the boat stays dry and protected. I keep the boat in an area protected from the prevailing westerly's and I poke my head under the tarp a few times each winter to make sure there are no leaks. I get about 4 years out the tarps which I buy at a local farm supply store. Dave s/v Hakuna Matata O'Day 222
I have opted for the tarps and the boat stays dry and protected. I keep the boat in an area protected from the prevailing westerly's and I poke my head under the tarp a few times each winter to make sure there are no leaks. I get about 4 years out the tarps which I buy at a local farm supply store. Dave s/v Hakuna Matata O'Day 222
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