About to refinish the small amount of brightwork on my capri 26. Connects through cabin roof so it's not real hard. Looks like it could be done by masking it though? Any thoughts for regretably I am lazy, an a bad speller according to spell check.
To remove or not remove,tis the question/teak
- Thread starter lestermaddox@embarqmail.c
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Sometimes it is a pain to remove teak woodwork and so masking makes it easier to finish. But, in my opinion, if the teak is more easily removed, then remove it and refinish it on all surfaces, which will be a better seal in the long run.
You must clean the teak first using a two part teak cleaner (not on a venier, however - too agressive). Then, if required for a smooth surface, you can sand. Then you have to choose your method of sealing. Varnish looks very nice, but is harder to accomplish. Teak is oily and so it needs to be coated properly for good results or your work will come off on you. I recommend Epiphanes Varnish formulated for teak, if you wish to varnish your teak. If you are looking for quick and easy, then I recommend Sikkens Cetol - their last generation called something like Natural Teak. It is the only one that has a UV filter in it and the color is great for teak. Earlier formulas were orangy in color and even formulas after that had no UV filters. Oil is ok, but is subject to evaporation and so needs to be reapplied frequently for a nice appearance. There is good oil and cheap oil. It is easier on the pocket book to buy cheap, but the more expensive ones last longer. I like Interlux teak oil, actually. Cost more, but lasts a good long time I have found in comparison to the cheaper brands.
You must clean the teak first using a two part teak cleaner (not on a venier, however - too agressive). Then, if required for a smooth surface, you can sand. Then you have to choose your method of sealing. Varnish looks very nice, but is harder to accomplish. Teak is oily and so it needs to be coated properly for good results or your work will come off on you. I recommend Epiphanes Varnish formulated for teak, if you wish to varnish your teak. If you are looking for quick and easy, then I recommend Sikkens Cetol - their last generation called something like Natural Teak. It is the only one that has a UV filter in it and the color is great for teak. Earlier formulas were orangy in color and even formulas after that had no UV filters. Oil is ok, but is subject to evaporation and so needs to be reapplied frequently for a nice appearance. There is good oil and cheap oil. It is easier on the pocket book to buy cheap, but the more expensive ones last longer. I like Interlux teak oil, actually. Cost more, but lasts a good long time I have found in comparison to the cheaper brands.
If the teak's quite aged, remove and refinish, then re-install. It's easier prep, sand and put on multiple coats when it's in your basement.
For yearly touch-up, it's OK to just mask and do on the boat.
I've got good results on older teak with Cetol.
For yearly touch-up, it's OK to just mask and do on the boat.
I've got good results on older teak with Cetol.
Yep, I used to pull everything off my 73 Catalina 22 and take it home. Easy Peasy. Wish I could yank it all off my H30, but alas I'd have to drill out bungs etc, and at that point it is easier to mask.
thanks for your reply about my teak issue. Guess I really knew the right answer just didnt really want to do it. it will be a better job though like you say. Thanks again Glenn Horton capri 26
Leave it on.
Why? It's STRAIGHT when they build it, and bending it back is a pain. I've done it on three boats. Well, the first two only...
Here's another tip: Only every three rungs are bedded with a through bolt, the others are screws from down below. When you take the Acorn nuts off from down below, you'd be tempted to back those. But what happens is those knock out the bungs from the handrails upstairs.
Hit the screws first.
Knock the handrail up about an inch, and use butyl tape from Maine Sail and they'll never leak as long as you own the boat.
Don't bother taking them off. Regardless of what condition they're in.
Good luck.
Why? It's STRAIGHT when they build it, and bending it back is a pain. I've done it on three boats. Well, the first two only...
Here's another tip: Only every three rungs are bedded with a through bolt, the others are screws from down below. When you take the Acorn nuts off from down below, you'd be tempted to back those. But what happens is those knock out the bungs from the handrails upstairs.
Hit the screws first.
Knock the handrail up about an inch, and use butyl tape from Maine Sail and they'll never leak as long as you own the boat.
Don't bother taking them off. Regardless of what condition they're in.
Good luck.
remove or not capri 26
Thanks so much for your feedback. If you dont mind, please explain your reply a little more. Yours hit home with what i am seeing. Again, thanks so much for your yime!!! Glenn
Thanks so much for your feedback. If you dont mind, please explain your reply a little more. Yours hit home with what i am seeing. Again, thanks so much for your yime!!! Glenn
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