To Ray B - compway mods can allow rain to enter!

[Brian]

Ray, noticed you raised the acrylic hatch by adding spacers. Did you check your mods for rain proofing since then? I have a new 240 so it may differ, but last time I was out I got rained on and noticed a drip on the starbd side near the middle of the pop top (right where the slot ends to allow for top to be raised). Further inspection found an extra spacer on the starbd side creating a 1/8" gap between the hatch and the track it slides on. Removed it and noticed the acrylic now seats on the slide and an 'improved' water seal, but also found the hatch now had trouble sliding all the way open (last 3 inches), so I guessed this spacer was a 'quick fix' for that problem. I can grind away the acrylic towards the back to fix the hatch opening more smoothly, but the drip will likely return in a heavy downpoar. So, to fix this, I'm going to 'router' a rain drip groove in the underside of the acrylic sheet along the entire edge, port and starbd, so that water drops can't 'walk' inward and eventually saturate the seal and leak inside. I want the acrylic to seat nicely on the slide (no gap), for optimal bug and dust prevention.I think this is a function of gravity and the acrylic sheet's overall camber, ie if it was bowed upward in the middle, this phenomenom would not occur, with or with a gap. So, it can also be cured by altering the shape of the edge of the sheet downward. (or adding a drip bead instead of a groove - anything to impede the water from walking inward).All this goes away with companionway/camper top covers - probably easier!brianh240

 

[Ray Bowles]

Brian, It's neat when someone comments...

on one of your postings. Thanks. Yes, I did find that same problem Sunday when I scrubbed my boat to wax it and rinsed it with a hose. My leak only happened after I had had the slider in the full open position with a ton of puddled water on top and I slid it rearward to close it. The water came off the bow end of the glass. The spill was mainly on the starboard side. Earlier I did find out that I had to run a 3/8" bead of clear caulking completly across the rear support (bow end) wooden tappered piece that is above the glass and aft of the lower closing wood handle. This was to direct the water into the side drain groves on the sides of the slider.Tomorrow I am going to take the entire glass and fiberglass assembly off the boat to fix a starburst crack in the fiberglass cover. I am pretty sure I know where this spill occured and why. I will post back to you the solution within 2 days. I think your idea could do it and I will try it if required. The spacers and wax are critical to sliding easy but the last 3" require a stronger push, but, even with that it is a 100% better Damn, it's great to be retired and forced to work on your boat to beat boredom. Ray

 

[Ray Bowles]

Brian, It's rain dance time.

I found the source of my water leak on my 95 H26 that I had modified my sliding hatch cover on to open and close easier. (it required a very HARD shove to open or close)I mentioned the board above the acrylic cover that is forward of the closing wooden bar on the lower side of the acrylic. I had run a bead of caulk width wise on the aft side of this upper tappered board to direct water to the outer rain channels for the hatch. The leak was caused by the water running around the ends of this caulk(as it was only as wide as the board and not as wide as the total hatch)and returning to the center of the wide acrylic piece because of the sag in the center of this hatch. To correct this, today I mounted, with the same caulk, on top of the acrylic, a wooden (soft pine)board 3/8" tall, 1/2" wide and 1 1/2" long directly over the wooden slides screwed to the forward fiberglass hatch cover to direct the water back into the rain channels rather than the center of the glass. Works good! If this is confussing then we are both on the same wavelength. My E-mail is rebaray@theofficenet.com and I will call you back on the phone. Ray

 

[Ray Bowles]

Brian, sorry I didn't mention that the last 3"

of the slide travel for the acrylic cover is not possible to fix as that is where the acrylic cover hits the rain/drain raised portion at the bow end of the fiberglass cover. To cut it down would help nothing. Ray