Tire size & boat weight, 26S
- Thread starter Blake
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Hello Blake,
I looked at the tires on my 26S trailer and they are 215/75R14 rated at 1840 pounds. I think its common for these 26C boats/trailer/outboard to weigh in the low 3000's pound range.
Last year (going to Lake Powell - I think you said your going in April), I had a tire bust off. All the lug nuts sheered and when I found the tire, it had a circular cut in the thread near the edge. Ie, the whole radius of the tread had a deep cut which eventually blew the tire. The cut was likely made by the fender as the tire rotated but the fender had not come un-done so the fender could not have cut the tread unless the lug nuts had come loose. So I think the lug nuts came loose, the tire was rubbing on the fender and then evenually, the tire blew and the lug nuts sheered.
It seems that the single axle trailer is somewhat marginal even for the lighter 26C boats. I was thinking about going to dual axle - plenty of topics you can search on this but its more project than I want to deal with at the moment so am thinking about just beefing up my single axle setup. I think you can get some 15 inch tires rated for over 2000 pounds each. My tires have a five lug pattern and I think you can get 6 lug pattern which has a higher rating. Maybe you can also get bearings, ect which are also rated higher. I think the axle is rated at something like 3400 pounds and Im hoping to just leave it as is. If I would have to change the axle, Id just go for the dual axle.
I looked at the tires on my 26S trailer and they are 215/75R14 rated at 1840 pounds. I think its common for these 26C boats/trailer/outboard to weigh in the low 3000's pound range.
Last year (going to Lake Powell - I think you said your going in April), I had a tire bust off. All the lug nuts sheered and when I found the tire, it had a circular cut in the thread near the edge. Ie, the whole radius of the tread had a deep cut which eventually blew the tire. The cut was likely made by the fender as the tire rotated but the fender had not come un-done so the fender could not have cut the tread unless the lug nuts had come loose. So I think the lug nuts came loose, the tire was rubbing on the fender and then evenually, the tire blew and the lug nuts sheered.
It seems that the single axle trailer is somewhat marginal even for the lighter 26C boats. I was thinking about going to dual axle - plenty of topics you can search on this but its more project than I want to deal with at the moment so am thinking about just beefing up my single axle setup. I think you can get some 15 inch tires rated for over 2000 pounds each. My tires have a five lug pattern and I think you can get 6 lug pattern which has a higher rating. Maybe you can also get bearings, ect which are also rated higher. I think the axle is rated at something like 3400 pounds and Im hoping to just leave it as is. If I would have to change the axle, Id just go for the dual axle.
I have a 26S on an original Mac trailer. I put it on a truck scale and it weighs 3800 lbs. loaded ready to go on an extended cruise.I have the original Mac factory drawings for their trailer and they specify a 3200 lbs axle.
I trailer it to Florida last winter without a problem, some wear on the inside of the tires, but not bad, was about 1800 miles each way. This past summer I was able to ruin both tires in very hot weather towing the rig for about 5 hours on the highway. When the trailer was viewed from the back both tires were tilted in at the top. I stopped at a garage and had the tires flipped on the rims so I could wear out the other edge of the tires on the trip back home. I moved as much stuff off the boat and into the truck as possible.
When I came home I removed the boat from the trailer and looked at the axle, and without any weight it was quite straight. I bought a new 3500 lb axle, 4 new matched 3500 lb springs, double fenders, double axle trailer linkage kit and converted the trailer to a double axle. It is designed so that I can slide the two axles back and forth on the trailer frame in order to set the tongue weight on the truck ball regardless of how the boat is loaded.
I have not hauled the rig very far. I did take it up to 70 mile per hour with the boat on it and it was very stable. It does not back up quite as easily but otherwise a much better trailer. It feels very stable on the highway. I expect it will lower the gas mileage.
An alternative would be to buy a stronger axle, springs and tires to replace the factory unit.
In any case it would be wise to ensure the trailer is not weakened from rust, they are marginal when new and excessive rust will result in failure, particularly in the tongue just back of the coupler, it is a square box section and can rust badly on the inside. All the stress is concentrated in this section. Failure there just back of the safety chains would be catastrophic.
Bob
I trailer it to Florida last winter without a problem, some wear on the inside of the tires, but not bad, was about 1800 miles each way. This past summer I was able to ruin both tires in very hot weather towing the rig for about 5 hours on the highway. When the trailer was viewed from the back both tires were tilted in at the top. I stopped at a garage and had the tires flipped on the rims so I could wear out the other edge of the tires on the trip back home. I moved as much stuff off the boat and into the truck as possible.
When I came home I removed the boat from the trailer and looked at the axle, and without any weight it was quite straight. I bought a new 3500 lb axle, 4 new matched 3500 lb springs, double fenders, double axle trailer linkage kit and converted the trailer to a double axle. It is designed so that I can slide the two axles back and forth on the trailer frame in order to set the tongue weight on the truck ball regardless of how the boat is loaded.
I have not hauled the rig very far. I did take it up to 70 mile per hour with the boat on it and it was very stable. It does not back up quite as easily but otherwise a much better trailer. It feels very stable on the highway. I expect it will lower the gas mileage.
An alternative would be to buy a stronger axle, springs and tires to replace the factory unit.
In any case it would be wise to ensure the trailer is not weakened from rust, they are marginal when new and excessive rust will result in failure, particularly in the tongue just back of the coupler, it is a square box section and can rust badly on the inside. All the stress is concentrated in this section. Failure there just back of the safety chains would be catastrophic.
Bob
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Bob and Walt, thanks for the info, you probably saved me from a boat wreck. We bought our boat in Seattle on it's original trailer. It was badly rusted through and we were lucky to get it home. The P.O. bought us some brand new tires and rims for trip back to MT. We ended up junking the trailer for a used motorboat trailer that had 15" rims. I saved the 14' tires , thinking that I would sell them. Last fall, while returning from Yellowstone, I had a trailer tire blow out (these where not ST rated tires). This year I planned on using the almost new 14' tires that I already have for our upcoming trip to Lake Powell. The problem is that the P.O. bought us ST 205 75 D14's, with a load rating of 1750#. I had already bought a used rim and had ordered a spare to match the other two when I read your replies. I have since cancelled the spare and ordered two 15" tires with a 2000# load rating. I'm not sure what the axle on my current trailer is rated at, but I hve been trailering my boat for 4 years now, and hve had no unusual tread wear, so I think the it is beefy enough. Thanks again for the great advice.
Blake, do you know if your 15 inch tires have the five hole or six hole lug pattern? I probably would not have had a problem if I would have done a better job inspecting the trailer every gas fill but seems six lug bolts would be better.
Also, has anyone put 15 inch tires on the stock 26S trailer? I wonder if the slock fenders become a problem with the larger tires.
Also, has anyone put 15 inch tires on the stock 26S trailer? I wonder if the slock fenders become a problem with the larger tires.
I think better tires are definitely a better way to go, but I can pretty much assure you that your springs and axle probably have a 3500 lb. rating. I'm sure they would take more as there is a safety factor in those numbers, but I see the real fix is to add a second axle like what Bob in Ottawa and Todd in Utah and I'm sure others have done. I hope to soon post some pictures on my site of what they did as they took two different methods, both of which look good to me and they are both happy with the results. In the process you can add brakes, some thing that is definitely need safety wise.
As far as 5 lug or 6 there are a lot of trailers hauling a lot more than we are on 5 hole wheels, so that shouldn't be of concern. On the tires fitting the trailer fenders you could probably figure that out pretty easily. The 15 inch wheels over the 14 inch will only add 1/2 inch of issue there, but the real issue is the tire diameter and more importantly the radius increase as that is what is going to show up on the fender. If you are thinking of going to the 15 inch or a larger 14 inch tire look at the size and then google tire sizes and you will find sites for the diameter of different series tires and usually where you buy the tires will have the diameters listed. If you have no evidence of tire rub now and you were only going 1/2 to 3/4 less clearance you might be good to go. I wouldn't worry a lot about trying that as long as the only thing the tire could hit would be the underside of a smooth fender. You could also put rubber snubbers to limit axle movement like most cars have.
It looks like the top of my axle might of hit the bottom of the boat so I'm starting by putting new bunks on (it needs them) and adding 3/4 of an inch there. I will also for sure be adding a second axle with disc brakes in the near future. I'll post pictures of that when I do it also.
One last item.
http://www.boatwheels.biz/trailer_tire_poster.pdf
..... and have read it other places and I just replaced 5 year old tires on my car hauler trailer as they had all rotted and they only have maybe 15,000 miles on them at the most and lots of tread. Like it says they actually last longer being used.
c ya,
Sum
As far as 5 lug or 6 there are a lot of trailers hauling a lot more than we are on 5 hole wheels, so that shouldn't be of concern. On the tires fitting the trailer fenders you could probably figure that out pretty easily. The 15 inch wheels over the 14 inch will only add 1/2 inch of issue there, but the real issue is the tire diameter and more importantly the radius increase as that is what is going to show up on the fender. If you are thinking of going to the 15 inch or a larger 14 inch tire look at the size and then google tire sizes and you will find sites for the diameter of different series tires and usually where you buy the tires will have the diameters listed. If you have no evidence of tire rub now and you were only going 1/2 to 3/4 less clearance you might be good to go. I wouldn't worry a lot about trying that as long as the only thing the tire could hit would be the underside of a smooth fender. You could also put rubber snubbers to limit axle movement like most cars have.
It looks like the top of my axle might of hit the bottom of the boat so I'm starting by putting new bunks on (it needs them) and adding 3/4 of an inch there. I will also for sure be adding a second axle with disc brakes in the near future. I'll post pictures of that when I do it also.
One last item.
I got that here (read it)..........
http://www.boatwheels.biz/trailer_tire_poster.pdf
..... and have read it other places and I just replaced 5 year old tires on my car hauler trailer as they had all rotted and they only have maybe 15,000 miles on them at the most and lots of tread. Like it says they actually last longer being used.
c ya,
Sum
"3 to 5 years is the average life expectancy of a Trailer Tire. After three years you should consider replacing your Trailer tires"
So, I guess this means I should consider doing something with the other two tires on my trailer which have dates codes around 1987
When my tire blew, I went to a Napa shop (in Green River) and they replaced the five lugs which sheered. I wonder if lugs come in different grades (like bolts) and I should worry about this?
Also, about what is the total DIY expense to go to two axles?
So, I guess this means I should consider doing something with the other two tires on my trailer which have dates codes around 1987
When my tire blew, I went to a Napa shop (in Green River) and they replaced the five lugs which sheered. I wonder if lugs come in different grades (like bolts) and I should worry about this?
Also, about what is the total DIY expense to go to two axles?
To answer one of my questions,
From this web site
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=159
My current trailer tire (probably what came with the trailer or at least similar)
TRAILER TIRE & WHEEL ASSEMBLY
STOCK #: 1604057
Load Range: C (6-ply)
Max. Capacity: 1870 lbs. each
Overall Diameter: 26.3"
Maximum PSI: 50 lbs.
Rim Finish: Painted White, Spoke Pattern
5 Lug on 4.5" Bolt Circle, 3-1/8" Center Hole
CARLISLE USA TRAIL® Series
Here is a 15 inch option (I need to check the lug dimension)
TRAILER TIRE & WHEEL ASSEMBLY
STOCK #: 1604060
Load Range: C (6-ply)
Max. Capacity: 2150 lbs. each
Overall Diameter: 28.1"
Maximum PSI: 50 lbs.
Rim Finish: Painted White, Spoke Pattern
5 Lug on 4.5" Bolt Circle, 3-1/8" Center Hole
CARLISLE USA TRAIL® Series
Price: [SIZE=+1]$147.50 [/SIZE]
So it looks like a 15 inch "2150" pound rated tire would be 28.1 - 26.3 = 1.8 inches taller. Im pretty sure Id have to mess with the fender but overall, not that big of a deal.
From this web site
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=159
My current trailer tire (probably what came with the trailer or at least similar)
TRAILER TIRE & WHEEL ASSEMBLY
STOCK #: 1604057
Load Range: C (6-ply)
Max. Capacity: 1870 lbs. each
Overall Diameter: 26.3"
Maximum PSI: 50 lbs.
Rim Finish: Painted White, Spoke Pattern
5 Lug on 4.5" Bolt Circle, 3-1/8" Center Hole
CARLISLE USA TRAIL® Series
Here is a 15 inch option (I need to check the lug dimension)
TRAILER TIRE & WHEEL ASSEMBLY
STOCK #: 1604060
Load Range: C (6-ply)
Max. Capacity: 2150 lbs. each
Overall Diameter: 28.1"
Maximum PSI: 50 lbs.
Rim Finish: Painted White, Spoke Pattern
5 Lug on 4.5" Bolt Circle, 3-1/8" Center Hole
CARLISLE USA TRAIL® Series
Price: [SIZE=+1]$147.50 [/SIZE]
So it looks like a 15 inch "2150" pound rated tire would be 28.1 - 26.3 = 1.8 inches taller. Im pretty sure Id have to mess with the fender but overall, not that big of a deal.
Don't forget only 1/2 of that 1.8 inches is going to be on the fender side so you only need about .9 of an inch more clearance to have the same clearance you have now. I really don't know if you are gaining much by going with tires that will carry a 4300 lb. load when the trailer (for a 26S) is only rated for 2750 lbs. from the factory. I'm hoping that I can add a second axle with surge disc. brakes and 2 more wheels and tires for around $900 to $1000, but I haven't priced it all out yet to the penny. That is me doing the work, but it is a pretty straight forward job. Bob or someone else that has done this might be able to reply, but the brake kit with hubs, brakes, lines and discs/calipers is around $500, I can make an axle welding the stub axles into round or square tubing probably for $100 and not have the freight I would have if I ordered it, 2 tires and wheels a little over $200, another set of springs and hangers/equalizer probably $100.
When I just got the tires for my tire hauler I was going to go with ones with more load rating, but then considered that the ones I have now were rated high enough that I could never, should never, have more weight than that on the trailer and that they would rot just as fast, so I got the same size again.
Now the ones on my teardrop are way older and didn't rot, but I use it a lot, so that goes along with that article that said they would last much longer if used. The car hauler sometimes goes a year between uses, not good. You do see lots and read about lots of people having trailer tire issues. I think that is because of the infrequent use of them. Hopefully the boat trailer will get used a lot more and the tires will last a lot longer like they do on your car.
I would not ever worry about shearing the lugs on the wheels again. That is just not common. I lost a wheel/tire once with an old pickup driving thankfully down a dirt road. I'll bet anything I didn't completely tighten the lugs on a tire change prior to that. In your case I'll bet the lugs got loose and the wheel started moving around and wore them and they sheared. Were the holes all elongated on the wheel also? I would watch that side to make sure the lugs have pulled all the way in and are seated, then I wouldn't worry about it any more.
Short story. I was helping a gal and her boyfriend move her from Wyoming to northern Calif. years ago in the middle of winter. I was driving a pickup with a camper shell on the back and lots of her goats in it. Behind that I was towing an old Renualt. When we were almost there during the night a car pulled up along side of me and pointed back to the tow vehicle. I pulled over and the back right wheel/tire on the Renault was down to the center part of the wheel. What had probably happened was the tire probably went flat. Then it wore away. Then it was running on the wheel which wore down to the brake drum and that is where it was when I pulled over :cry:
c ya,
Sum
I added a second axle to my trailer. The cost will depend on a number of factors. I bought a new axle with hubs and bearings for $120 on sale, but the track was too narrow, and the spring saddles were in the wrong place, it cost very little for me to make it wider, and move the saddles. If you can do things like that then your cost can be reduced, if you need a bolt up kit then you will probably pay more. This is not something to learn on, while it is not rocket science it would be better if you did it with a friend that has done this type of work before. My total cost was about $300 plus two tires and wheels. If you need to have something welded be sure that it is done properly, it may look great but could come apart at 60 mph.
As far as bigger tires are concerned, the easiest cheapest solution if the fender rubs is to install longer shackle links at the back of the springs.
I have heard about people using Chevy truck rims on a Mac trailer. In the past I've found trailers usually have a larger hub size than a car has, so you need to be sure the wheel has a hole big enough for the hub to go through.
The Mac specification for their trailer is 3200 lbs., as in most things that Roger spec's he is being very optimistic in the rating, maybe on a good day when it was new but 20 years later it may not be quite as strong. Anything you can do to beef the trailer up is cheap insurance.
When I did my conversion I took the springs apart and "buttered" each leaf with axle grease to prevent rust and give the boat a smoother ride, seems to work very well so far. I bought the double axle linkage kit from Eastern Trailer supply, it has brass bushing to press into each leaf spring and the A-link, all bolts are cross drilled with grease nipples, well worth the cost.
just my 2 cents, Bob
As far as bigger tires are concerned, the easiest cheapest solution if the fender rubs is to install longer shackle links at the back of the springs.
I have heard about people using Chevy truck rims on a Mac trailer. In the past I've found trailers usually have a larger hub size than a car has, so you need to be sure the wheel has a hole big enough for the hub to go through.
The Mac specification for their trailer is 3200 lbs., as in most things that Roger spec's he is being very optimistic in the rating, maybe on a good day when it was new but 20 years later it may not be quite as strong. Anything you can do to beef the trailer up is cheap insurance.
When I did my conversion I took the springs apart and "buttered" each leaf with axle grease to prevent rust and give the boat a smoother ride, seems to work very well so far. I bought the double axle linkage kit from Eastern Trailer supply, it has brass bushing to press into each leaf spring and the A-link, all bolts are cross drilled with grease nipples, well worth the cost.
just my 2 cents, Bob
Bob that is good info and I was hoping you would see this and weigh in as you did a great job on your trailer (and boat). The $300 you are talking about was just the second axle, springs and hangers, right? That didn't include a disc brake kit or the wheels and tires did it?
On the weight the manual I printed on the 26S said:
Now I think they are playing on the safe side with those weights as and added protection for themselves in case someone had a problem. One interesting thing is that the manual talks about surge brakes, but says "if your trailer has them", so maybe they were an option. I haven't seen the 3200 lbs. Is that on the X or M?
Would you mind if I posted the pictures you sent on my site along with your description of what you did at some point. I'm almost positive that I'm going to do mine like yours. I think it was a good idea and offers a couple good advantages.
c ya,
Sum
For whatever it is worth, The bolt pattern for my original Mac trailer is 5 lugs on 4.5" center. When I was planning on using the 14" rims I bought a Ford Aerostar rim from a junk yard to mount a spare on. The center hole was just slightly too small. I was able to grind it out to fit. My Caulkins trailer requires a 3" center hole. The rims that the P.O. bought for my old trailer have a 3.5" center hole. I was looking at the surviving tire from last years blow out. It was used when I got it and I pulled my boat on them for 4 seasons, it was not a trailer tire to begin with, and it was only rated at 1750#. I think I was lucky to get off so easy!
A question: how do you tell the capacity of a trailer axel? Is it stamped on there some where?
A question: how do you tell the capacity of a trailer axel? Is it stamped on there some where?
I picked up today some ST225/75R15 load rating D/8 - 2450 pound rated tires and some 15 inch rims - 5 lug on 4.5 inch centers. Have not made sure the 4.5 inch centers was correct so good to hear from Blake that this is likely the correct size.
My surge brakes are toast but I think part of the deal on these is that the lighter the vehicle, the more important the surge brakes are. Ive towed with a Dodge Dakota 4x4 - even over 11K el mountain passes in Colorado and havent had much issue but Im likley being hard on the truck brakes. So at the moment, my trailer work this year will likely be just getting some good new tires and possibly getting the surge brakes fixed. I love working on the boat but not so much the trailer. But working on a trailer when your stranded is seriously not fun so I need to do at least the minimun. Ill take a look at the bearings again this spring and make sure the grease is good and things are not too tight.
The dual axle looks like the best option - but its going to have to wait..
My surge brakes are toast but I think part of the deal on these is that the lighter the vehicle, the more important the surge brakes are. Ive towed with a Dodge Dakota 4x4 - even over 11K el mountain passes in Colorado and havent had much issue but Im likley being hard on the truck brakes. So at the moment, my trailer work this year will likely be just getting some good new tires and possibly getting the surge brakes fixed. I love working on the boat but not so much the trailer. But working on a trailer when your stranded is seriously not fun so I need to do at least the minimun. Ill take a look at the bearings again this spring and make sure the grease is good and things are not too tight.
The dual axle looks like the best option - but its going to have to wait..
Mac trailer
A bit of information, just my own knowledge, I'm not an expert, just passing on a few things I've learned over the years, I'm sure Sumner can provide a lot more information on the rims issues than I can. Others may have their own experience thay can contribute.
Regarding my costs for the two axle conversion, it was about $300 for the new axle with hubs, the double axle linkage kit, two new leaf springs, two fenders, and a bit of steel to connect it all together. The s/s disc brake kit was about $450 all by itself. I still need to buy two new tires and rims, I'm running the two originals and two new ones at this point.
Sumner if you want to put up any of the pictures I sent you of my trailer conversion go right ahead. I'll try and get some better shots in a few weeks. I'm leaving to drive back to Canada tomorrow morning from Florida, so if you can wait a bit you will have some better shots to use.
The 3200 lbs rating I specified for the trailer axle capacity comes from a set of MacGregor factory blueprints I have for the trailer used on the 26S, it is constructed with 4" channel frames and is the trailer I own. It appears that the trailers built until 1992 were made with 4" channel frames, the trailers after that were 3" channel, the later ones seem to be even more flexible, I do not know what these were rated to carry. I suspect the X & M trailer have a higher weight rating because of the bigger motor, they seem to have much bigger springs looking at them in a marina parking lot. Usually a trailer has a plate on the side near the front that lists the carrying capacity, mine was long gone by the time I bought my boat. It would be interesting to see what some of them say, can any one help out here ?
Another thing to be careful with on your trailer. The axle can have a small pin hole in it, if it gets salt water inside the axle it will rust away from the inside out. It will look fine until it fails. A fellow from a trailer shop in Florida told me they sometimes see axles fail near the spring u-bolts because they are too thin from rust inside the axle, that seems to be the only explanation.
The Mac trailer uses a wheel with a 4.5" bolt hole circle but you must also be careful of the correct wheel width (5.5") and offset. Too much offset and your bearing will have a much shorter life, too little and the wheel can fowl the barke caliper or drum. If the wheel is wider the offset will have to be all outboard. The wheel needs to have the correct hole in the center, I would not enlarge it to fit, some of the trailer weight should be carried on that area around the hub. A portion of the face of a steel wheels is proud of the hub until it is pulled in tight by the wheel nuts, if this does not happen the wheel nuts will not stay tight. Try to get the correct wheels for the trailer.
I may be offline for a few days while I'm on the road, Bob
A bit of information, just my own knowledge, I'm not an expert, just passing on a few things I've learned over the years, I'm sure Sumner can provide a lot more information on the rims issues than I can. Others may have their own experience thay can contribute.
Regarding my costs for the two axle conversion, it was about $300 for the new axle with hubs, the double axle linkage kit, two new leaf springs, two fenders, and a bit of steel to connect it all together. The s/s disc brake kit was about $450 all by itself. I still need to buy two new tires and rims, I'm running the two originals and two new ones at this point.
Sumner if you want to put up any of the pictures I sent you of my trailer conversion go right ahead. I'll try and get some better shots in a few weeks. I'm leaving to drive back to Canada tomorrow morning from Florida, so if you can wait a bit you will have some better shots to use.
The 3200 lbs rating I specified for the trailer axle capacity comes from a set of MacGregor factory blueprints I have for the trailer used on the 26S, it is constructed with 4" channel frames and is the trailer I own. It appears that the trailers built until 1992 were made with 4" channel frames, the trailers after that were 3" channel, the later ones seem to be even more flexible, I do not know what these were rated to carry. I suspect the X & M trailer have a higher weight rating because of the bigger motor, they seem to have much bigger springs looking at them in a marina parking lot. Usually a trailer has a plate on the side near the front that lists the carrying capacity, mine was long gone by the time I bought my boat. It would be interesting to see what some of them say, can any one help out here ?
Another thing to be careful with on your trailer. The axle can have a small pin hole in it, if it gets salt water inside the axle it will rust away from the inside out. It will look fine until it fails. A fellow from a trailer shop in Florida told me they sometimes see axles fail near the spring u-bolts because they are too thin from rust inside the axle, that seems to be the only explanation.
The Mac trailer uses a wheel with a 4.5" bolt hole circle but you must also be careful of the correct wheel width (5.5") and offset. Too much offset and your bearing will have a much shorter life, too little and the wheel can fowl the barke caliper or drum. If the wheel is wider the offset will have to be all outboard. The wheel needs to have the correct hole in the center, I would not enlarge it to fit, some of the trailer weight should be carried on that area around the hub. A portion of the face of a steel wheels is proud of the hub until it is pulled in tight by the wheel nuts, if this does not happen the wheel nuts will not stay tight. Try to get the correct wheels for the trailer.
I may be offline for a few days while I'm on the road, Bob
Bob, interesting comment about the size of the hole in the center. The rims I just bought have about a 3.25 inch hole in the center. These are also 6 inch wide by 15 inch, the original were 5 inch wide by 14 inch. The offset is different but seems to be no problem. The 4.5 inch centers also looks correct.
What I beleive is the original rim has about a 2.8 inch hole in the center and fits fairly snug on the bearing "post".
What is interesting (and scaring me a little) is that the tire that I had bust off and sheer the lugs was an after market rim also with about the 3.25 inch diameter hole in the center. It does not fit snug on the bearing post..
What I beleive is the original rim has about a 2.8 inch hole in the center and fits fairly snug on the bearing "post".
What is interesting (and scaring me a little) is that the tire that I had bust off and sheer the lugs was an after market rim also with about the 3.25 inch diameter hole in the center. It does not fit snug on the bearing post..
Here is from another site:
I know a lot of guys torque wheels and most wheel centers will, but in all honesty I never have. I have a star wrench and get them as tight as I can with it and have never had an issue except the one time when I think I forgot to do the final tightening when the vehicle was on the ground (my bad). Whenever I get wheels tires put on I tell them to get them tight then in the parking lot before I go I do the final tightening as I want to make sure I can get them off. I had that problem once where they installed them with an impact and I had a flat and couldn't get the wheel off without a lot of problems. I also want to make sure that I'm the one that tightened them then I know it was done to what I feel is safe.
There are charts that will tell you the proper wheel width for the tire size you are using. There is a range of widths. I would consult one of those and if you are in the range I wouldn't worry about it. I would guess the 6 inch probably is as you have gone to a larger tire with the 225 width.
You have to go a ways off on offset like Bob mentioned before you will run into bearing problems and you see that problem with the low rider guys where their tires stick way outside the body of the car. Most "normal" wheels that you will buy over the counter are not going to be a problem.
Bob that is interesting about the two different frame rail heights and would account for the two different load ratings that we have come up with. Mine is a '90 and is 4 inches. One thing that wouldn't be hard to do with one of these frames is to box the other side of the channel. That would greatly increase the frame and then I would never have a concern about it no matter how much the boat ended up weighing. I think the way you added the second axle with the 2 X 2 sub-frame for the axles/springs has also made a frame that might be weaker from rust stronger and is another reason I'll follow your lead.
c ya,
Sum
Walt some wheels center off the center bore and others don't and both would work. I'm still wondering in your case where you sheared the lugs were the holes elongated in the wheel? If so then the lugs came loose first in my opinion and then caused the lugs to fail. If the lugs would have just sheared then the holes would be undamaged.
I know a lot of guys torque wheels and most wheel centers will, but in all honesty I never have. I have a star wrench and get them as tight as I can with it and have never had an issue except the one time when I think I forgot to do the final tightening when the vehicle was on the ground (my bad). Whenever I get wheels tires put on I tell them to get them tight then in the parking lot before I go I do the final tightening as I want to make sure I can get them off. I had that problem once where they installed them with an impact and I had a flat and couldn't get the wheel off without a lot of problems. I also want to make sure that I'm the one that tightened them then I know it was done to what I feel is safe.
There are charts that will tell you the proper wheel width for the tire size you are using. There is a range of widths. I would consult one of those and if you are in the range I wouldn't worry about it. I would guess the 6 inch probably is as you have gone to a larger tire with the 225 width.
You have to go a ways off on offset like Bob mentioned before you will run into bearing problems and you see that problem with the low rider guys where their tires stick way outside the body of the car. Most "normal" wheels that you will buy over the counter are not going to be a problem.
Bob that is interesting about the two different frame rail heights and would account for the two different load ratings that we have come up with. Mine is a '90 and is 4 inches. One thing that wouldn't be hard to do with one of these frames is to box the other side of the channel. That would greatly increase the frame and then I would never have a concern about it no matter how much the boat ended up weighing. I think the way you added the second axle with the 2 X 2 sub-frame for the axles/springs has also made a frame that might be weaker from rust stronger and is another reason I'll follow your lead.
c ya,
Sum
Im pretty sure either the lug nuts or the lug bolts came loose before they broke. There was a circular cut in the tire tread as if the tire were rubbing on the fender as it turned but the fender had not come undone.
Seems that if you buy an aftermarket tire, you are pretty much limited to getting 3 1/8 inch hole size for the 14 or 15 inch 5 hole rims http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=159
Looks like you can order the hub centering rings. Im going to look into something like this since I like the new tires/rims I bought (got a very good deal which is why I got the ones with 2450 pound rating - more than needed)
http://www.justforwheels.com/index.jsp?cat=hubcentric&sub=searchsize
Seems that if you buy an aftermarket tire, you are pretty much limited to getting 3 1/8 inch hole size for the 14 or 15 inch 5 hole rims http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=159
Looks like you can order the hub centering rings. Im going to look into something like this since I like the new tires/rims I bought (got a very good deal which is why I got the ones with 2450 pound rating - more than needed)
http://www.justforwheels.com/index.jsp?cat=hubcentric&sub=searchsize
Walt I realize you had a problem and you don't want to have another, but there are thousands, probably millions of vehicles running around without the hub being centered, but centered on the lugs. The lug holes are tapered to center the wheel. I wouldn't spend the money on these unless you had unusual tire wear or such. I have 4 trailers now and none of them are hub centered and I've had no problems. Make sure your lug nuts are tight and put the money in you boat
.c ya,
Sum
I didn't even know centering rings existed. I bought some used 15" aluminum Ford Explorer wheels for the Aerostar I tow with. It came with steel 14" wheels. The bolt pattern was the same but the center hole is larger on the Explorer wheels. The lugs seem to align the wheels fine, I don't feel any vibration. I may get a set to help mount the wheels.
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