I plan to replace the chipped and incomplete PVC rub rail on my 23-2 this Spring. Any tips on how to handle and attach the material? It's quite rigid I think (purchased from DRMarine last year). I picture starting at the bow using a center mark on the roll, and anticipate needing a heat gun to soften the material at the corners. Anyone been down this road? Thanks!
Tips on replacing rub rail - O'day 23
- Thread starter dexterbuell
- Start date
A good question to ask. I have an O'Day 222 and would like to follow any comments. My air brakes failed and I ran into a dock; and the bow lost in the dual.
i also have an O’Day 222 and will be replacing my rub rail this spring. There are a number of good examples on YouTube.
here’s one:
here’s one:
So far the demo has been easy. #8x1” ss screws every 6” not the same as the screws attaching hull to cabin top. Some evidence of failing and repairs. Working the rigid white plastic channel from DRmarine will require a heat gun to bend for corners. Looks like there was a single piece fitted around bow and then long straight runs along the rails.
I did this job on my O'day 25. The biggest mistake I made was leaving the rigid rub rail coiled in the shipping box for about 6 months. The rail took a set in the coiled position. It was impossible to straighten out.
I had to wait until warm weather, find a vacant dock and stretch out the rub rail and screw it down to the dock and let it sit for several weeks in the sun until it straightened out.
While waiting I filled all of the old screw hole with thickened epoxy. I then went back and pulled out every other deck to hull joint screw, put a dab of 3M4200 on the screw and put them back in. Then I went around the hull and did the remaining screws.
By the the time the rigid rail had straightened I was out of time and had the yard install the rest.
Doing all this work did solve a lot of water leaks I had around the hull so the work was worth it.
I've been concerned about the memory in the material as well. I'm not sure how long it's been in the box prior to shipping. Might have been a while! But yes, I too have had it in the basement all winter. I'll see if I can soften it with the heat gun, as I don't have the space or time.
Your fill work sounds like it paid off. I'm definitely going to follow your lead there.
Thanks,
Your fill work sounds like it paid off. I'm definitely going to follow your lead there.
Thanks,
I don't have anything to add; except thanks for the information. I've replaced the Teak and found and cured many leaks. Some brute had done it before and made my job harder.
Would love to hear more about curing those leaks. It's a damp boat for sure. Did you re-bed all that stuff topsides?
My understanding is D&R Marine receives it and stores it in straight lengths. He only coils it for shipping to customer and somewhere there was instructions on un coiling it immediately upon receiving it. Of course, I ignored that and was sorry I did.
Another tip I was given was to put the rail in a large tube of hot water immediately before installing.
Yeah, Butyl under the new Teak. Some screw holes were #8and some were #10. I treated each individually to the next size up whatever it was. A few had to receive #12 crews. What a mess. I had to grind down the head of the #12 to fit the # 10 bung hole I predrilled. The mast step had to be reseated also. Also, I opened the holes for the pins at the mast step, so that the mast could move a little without moving the step. Dry inside now.