Timidly rebedding stanchions

[StuckinReverse]

I know there are a number of posts about rebedding stanchions, so apologies if my questions are repeated somewhere within the archive. I see that most advice mentions bolts and backing plates, but it seems that the Hunter 260 (2003) does not have a backing plate but instead used machine screws into the fiberglass. The back of one screw is accessible from a cabin access panel but not the other, nor the top screws. I worry that if i remove the screws, I will never get a strong seating if i reuse the same hole with butyl tape. I dont have much experience with butyl tape in a case where I would need it to not just seal, but ensure a strong grip between a machine screw and a reused fiberglass hole.

Does anyone have experience with this? Will the tape seal the hole and give enough structure to bring it back to full strength? Is there another sealant I should use instead?
Or is the only option to redrill and use a bolt with a backing plate? This is, by far, the worst option since I would have to cut multiple sections of the cabin to access the backside of the bolt.

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom.

 

[Tally Ho]

I doubt that the stanchion bases are just held on with a screw into fiberglass…machine screws tells me that there is an aluminum plate embedded in the fiberglass, threaded to accept your machine screws.

Butyl tape does not harden, and certainly would not provide any “grip” for the threads on the screws.

I would rebed one, using the same holes and machine screws, and give it a test…not so hard to break anything, but to satisfy yourself that the screws are tight in the deck (meaning threaded into something substantial).

I had a Hunter 270. Nice boat.

Greg

 

[rgranger]

A dab of JB weld in the hole will hold it for sure.... but you will never get that screw out again.

 

[Parsons]

Our old friend @Kermit answered this question : Hunter 260 Backing Plates
And @Crazy Dave Condon chimed in with advice. This forum and the people who contribute are WONDERFUL !
Here's your diagram: https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_260_11900362.pdf

 

[Dalliance]

I doubt that the stanchion bases are just held on with a screw into fiberglass…machine screws tells me that there is an aluminum plate embedded in the fiberglass, threaded to accept your machine screws.

Butyl tape does not harden, and certainly would not provide any “grip” for the threads on the screws.

I would rebed one, using the same holes and machine screws, and give it a test…not so hard to break anything, but to satisfy yourself that the screws are tight in the deck (meaning threaded into something substantial).

I had a Hunter 270. Nice boat.

Greg

I agree. The presence of machine screws tells me there are threaded aluminum imbed plates in the fiberglass deck. Not unusual for Hunter. I have them in multiple locations on the deck of my ’82 H30.
Butyl is the right sealant to use.

 

[Kermit]

Our old friend @Kermit answered this question : Hunter 260 Backing Plates
And @Crazy Dave Condon chimed in with advice. This forum and the people who contribute are WONDERFUL !
Here's your diagram: https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_260_11900362.pdf

I’m glad I could help! Not really posthumously. I guess it’s more like “postsailously.”
Maybe @Will Gilmore can come up with a more appropriate word.

 

[Will Gilmore]

“postsailously.”
Maybe @Will Gilmore can come up with a more appropriate word.

Nope. That's the best one, my neosenipal.

-Will

 

[Kermit]

Nope. That's the best one, my neosenipal.

-Will

I’m glad you approve. But lately I’m feeling more like a neosenilepal.

 

[Will Gilmore]

Senile does come from the same root as seni. It's Greek, as you may remember.

-Will

 

[Kermit]

Senile does come from the same root as seni. It's Greek, as you may remember.

-Will

Well, to me it is.

 

[rgranger]

Senile does come from the same root as seni. It's Greek, as you may remember.

-Will

My favorite Greek God

 

[StuckinReverse]

Thank you all for your advice, I'll be trying my hand with the rebedding process later this week. Still nervous about breaking "the seal" but feeling more confident it wont turn into a "screwing through drywall" situation.

One follow up (because i havent really done much with aluminium), when reseating a machine screw in an AL plate, would you suggest a tourque wrench or an upper limit on the tourque of the drill to avoid stripping? Or maybe AL is just more robust than I give it credit. I have this vision of driving deck screws into butter that I cannot shake.

 

[Parsons]

Forgot to mention it, but use some Tef-Gel or other anti-seize lubricant on the threads. You will be mating dissimilar metals (stainless screws and aluminum plate) in a salt environment, so it will "gall" or seize up over time. The lubricant prevents this. Yes, it is ridiculously expensive for "some grease", but it will allow the screw to be removed in another three years.

 

[Kermit]

I have this vision of driving deck screws into butter that I cannot shake.

That’s your problem right there. You don’t shake butter. You spread it.
(Sorry. Old habits never die.)

 

[Kermit]

My favorite Greek God

View attachment 210857

Dude! Is that a self portrait? Looks just like you!!!

 

[Will Gilmore]

Dude! Is that a self portrait? Looks just like you!!!

rgranger has more hair.

-Will

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@StuckinReverse

Never use a torque wrench on those screws on your Hunter 260

 

[rgranger]

rgranger has more hair.

-Will

I wish..... The things you don't think about when you are young.... I really miss hair.

I was thinking this toupee might be nice

It is versatile...

 

[Tally Ho]

Thank you all for your advice, I'll be trying my hand with the rebedding process later this week. Still nervous about breaking "the seal" but feeling more confident it wont turn into a "screwing through drywall" situation.

One follow up (because i havent really done much with aluminium), when reseating a machine screw in an AL plate, would you suggest a tourque wrench or an upper limit on the tourque of the drill to avoid stripping? Or maybe AL is just more robust than I give it credit. I have this vision of driving deck screws into butter that I cannot shake.

You don’t need to torque these screws very much…I would not use a torque wrench. Snug them up tight. You may need to retighten then after the butyl tape squeezes out some.

If you are using a drill/driver, yes, I would back off the torque setting some. You don’t want to strip out the aluminum plate.

And as @Parsons said, use some Tef Gel or similar stuff to protect against issues with dissimilar metals.

Give it a try on one, gain some confidence, then go for it !

Greg