Tim R - Question on Cabin Sole Replacement

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Jul 26, 2009
291
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Hi Tim,

After some test cutting/fitting, I'm ready to start on the T&H Plywood. I noticed on your project website and previous posts that you recommend coating with Epoxy prior to cutting. From one of your previous posts:

"You do not need to thin it. That will just require more coats. I used West System at full strength and coated the entire sheet of plywood before cutting. This also helps to minimize splintering when cutting."

I haven't worked with epoxy before and don't want to screw this up. Looking at the West System website, I believe I need the 105 resin and 207 hardener. Is this the combination you used?

Also, was the thickness of the epoxy negligible relative to the final fit or did you accommodate by subtracting 1/32", 1/16", etc?

Great job by the way. I'm using my router as you've suggested and I'm impressed with the finished edge and accuracy of the cut. Boulter's about 20 minutes from home, so I'll be getting the plywood from them.

Thanks Tim,

Joe
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Joe, I only epoxied the back side before I cut the plywood. I used 105 & 206. I do not think West had the 207 when I did this. The edges of the cutouts were coated after the cuts made. The epoxy does not increase the dimension by much and the trim pieces fit just fine. The top of the plywood was sealed and first coat of varnish applied before cutting to minimize splintering. The outer edge dimension was not critical. There was trim that fit around the perimeter to hide the gaps between the sole and sides.
 
Jul 26, 2009
291
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Thanks Tim,

What was used to seal the top? I assumed epoxy on all sides, but it sounds like you used something else.
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Joe, the top was initially sealed with Minwax wood sealer and then one coat of Bristol Finish one part water based poly. Additional coats of poly were applied later.

Epoxy was only applied to the edges and bottom of the plywood.
 
Jul 26, 2009
291
. . .
Thanks again Tim,

Sorry for the rookie questions. As a new boat owner it seems unusual when residential woodworking skills translate to the marine environment, so I'm glad to hear some of it carries over (i.e. Minwax sealer). I'll be documenting the process and will post it when it's all said and done. Appreciate the guidance though and thanks again for posting your project.

As a side note, wish you had the time to update your blog more often as my wife and I live vicariously through others making the live aboard leap.

Cheers
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
No problem Joe.

Yes, our blog is pretty lousy. We have been very lazy about it. Luckily I have not been lazy working on the boat. We have been very busy lately but plan to be updating the blog soon.
 

Ducati

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Nov 19, 2008
380
Boatless Boatless Annapolis
Our first boat had a beautiful finished wood sole however it was a problem as it was always getting marked and scratched. We never could match the stain or properly fix damages. Our newer boat has a synthetic top which I prefer. Not quite as nice looking however it's one less thing to be fussing over.
 
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