Looking to covert my 79 Hunter 27 to a Edson Wheel. The main sheet controls come to the rear of the cockpit. I am looking for any advice on this project, difficulty, time, expense, other modifications that will be needed.
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H
Howard
Me Too
I too have been considering this conversion for my 1978 H-27. I even have the pedestal, wheel and all the fixings. Mine are off an old Hunter and are made by Fanyman but they are in fine shape. I don't think that the actual instillation will be that difficult but I alos don't know where to out the traveler. I've considered 2 options. One is to put it on a riser on the cabin top forward of where my doger fits and change to mid boom sheeting. The second is to put a removable bridge for the traveler forward of the wheel forward of the cockpit locker lid. I'd make it removable so when I'm in port on on the hook I have more space in the cockpit. Most of the time I think I'd leave it in place. I think that this would be easier and would probably remain in place most of the time but I stumble on what hardware to use to make it removable. In either case the old traveler is junk and need to be replaced. A second issue, and a little more daunting to me is what to do with the rudder tube. You have to cut the tube (above the waterline)to accomidate the radial quadrant. On top of the cut tube you glass a stuffing box. The problem is that the tube is now the tube is supported at the bottom (next to the hull) by fiber glass fillets and putty and at the top (next to the deck) in the same manner. When you cut the tube do you have to provide a new support structure for the top of the tube (next to the stuffing box)? I'm not convinced that the filleting at the base of the tube is strong enough. I'd hate to have it break and sink my old Hunter. Third, I think you need to reinforce the floor under the pedestal. I don't think that this is very difficult. I've read that you make an epoxy mix like peanut butter to kind of glue a 3/4" marine plywood board to the underside of the cockpit floor. Forth, you'd need to make some kind of pilot seat on top of the old beer cooler box that I have behind the existing traveler. You need to cut down the rudder shaft. I'd probably put a bolt through it an rig some kint of emergency tiller. I'd also consider adding a new shaft bearing on the top to limit the play of the shaft and reduce any possible pressure on the tube under the deck. What is there is a little loose. This is the one part I don't have but I think that Edson has what would be needed. I'm pretty good with wood work for the seat but I have to admit that I have very little expereince with fiberglass/epoxy so it kind of scares me. I'm on Long Island, NY (Nelsonhow@netscape.net) and would be appy to e-mail you more of the detials I've considered if you'd like. Howard Nelson
I too have been considering this conversion for my 1978 H-27. I even have the pedestal, wheel and all the fixings. Mine are off an old Hunter and are made by Fanyman but they are in fine shape. I don't think that the actual instillation will be that difficult but I alos don't know where to out the traveler. I've considered 2 options. One is to put it on a riser on the cabin top forward of where my doger fits and change to mid boom sheeting. The second is to put a removable bridge for the traveler forward of the wheel forward of the cockpit locker lid. I'd make it removable so when I'm in port on on the hook I have more space in the cockpit. Most of the time I think I'd leave it in place. I think that this would be easier and would probably remain in place most of the time but I stumble on what hardware to use to make it removable. In either case the old traveler is junk and need to be replaced. A second issue, and a little more daunting to me is what to do with the rudder tube. You have to cut the tube (above the waterline)to accomidate the radial quadrant. On top of the cut tube you glass a stuffing box. The problem is that the tube is now the tube is supported at the bottom (next to the hull) by fiber glass fillets and putty and at the top (next to the deck) in the same manner. When you cut the tube do you have to provide a new support structure for the top of the tube (next to the stuffing box)? I'm not convinced that the filleting at the base of the tube is strong enough. I'd hate to have it break and sink my old Hunter. Third, I think you need to reinforce the floor under the pedestal. I don't think that this is very difficult. I've read that you make an epoxy mix like peanut butter to kind of glue a 3/4" marine plywood board to the underside of the cockpit floor. Forth, you'd need to make some kind of pilot seat on top of the old beer cooler box that I have behind the existing traveler. You need to cut down the rudder shaft. I'd probably put a bolt through it an rig some kint of emergency tiller. I'd also consider adding a new shaft bearing on the top to limit the play of the shaft and reduce any possible pressure on the tube under the deck. What is there is a little loose. This is the one part I don't have but I think that Edson has what would be needed. I'm pretty good with wood work for the seat but I have to admit that I have very little expereince with fiberglass/epoxy so it kind of scares me. I'm on Long Island, NY (Nelsonhow@netscape.net) and would be appy to e-mail you more of the detials I've considered if you'd like. Howard Nelson
J
Jerry
What I have...
on my '77 H27 was in place when purchased. There is a teak traveller bridge built over the sliding companionway hatch for the mid boom mainsheet. It is set forward of the hatch edge for head protection when entering or exiting the cabin. There is an Edson pedestal with guard, engine controls and compass with a stainless wheel. There is a raised, five-quarter teak bench spanning the seats behind the pedestal and right over the rudder post. Naturally, there is a snap-on cushion for the bench! The tiller head is still in place and the stubby emergency tiller that can be used if the Edson should fail (never heard if it!) is stored in the cabin. Comfortable space between the wheel and bench to sail seated or standing. No traveller hardware in the cockpit and main and gen sheets are to either side depending on tack. Never met the PO but always wanted to say thanks for this layout. Sorry, can't provide photos. Jerry (Triton)
on my '77 H27 was in place when purchased. There is a teak traveller bridge built over the sliding companionway hatch for the mid boom mainsheet. It is set forward of the hatch edge for head protection when entering or exiting the cabin. There is an Edson pedestal with guard, engine controls and compass with a stainless wheel. There is a raised, five-quarter teak bench spanning the seats behind the pedestal and right over the rudder post. Naturally, there is a snap-on cushion for the bench! The tiller head is still in place and the stubby emergency tiller that can be used if the Edson should fail (never heard if it!) is stored in the cabin. Comfortable space between the wheel and bench to sail seated or standing. No traveller hardware in the cockpit and main and gen sheets are to either side depending on tack. Never met the PO but always wanted to say thanks for this layout. Sorry, can't provide photos. Jerry (Triton)
J
John
Wheel
I have a 1976 Hunter 27' (eight years now) This is a great boat! I have a tiller and have checked this thru.(adding a wheel that is) Edsonmarine.com or get their catalog!! You do not cut the shaft. You slide it out to install the bearing support and the circular attachment is in half, you clamp it on. It looks like it isn't to big of a job. They have complete instructions and prices for our model and year Hunter. I'm sure they will be happy to send you out the spec sheet and info. Good Sailing.
I have a 1976 Hunter 27' (eight years now) This is a great boat! I have a tiller and have checked this thru.(adding a wheel that is) Edsonmarine.com or get their catalog!! You do not cut the shaft. You slide it out to install the bearing support and the circular attachment is in half, you clamp it on. It looks like it isn't to big of a job. They have complete instructions and prices for our model and year Hunter. I'm sure they will be happy to send you out the spec sheet and info. Good Sailing.
H
Howard
Cutting?
I realize that you don't cut the rudder shaft (Stainless). I've had my rudder out when I replaced the strut and prop shaft a long time ago. But you have to cut the fiberglass tube that runs from the bottom of the hull to the underside of the deck. After you make the cut you have to glass the stuffing box in place.
I realize that you don't cut the rudder shaft (Stainless). I've had my rudder out when I replaced the strut and prop shaft a long time ago. But you have to cut the fiberglass tube that runs from the bottom of the hull to the underside of the deck. After you make the cut you have to glass the stuffing box in place.
On my 1978 Hunter 27 I moved to mid-boom sheeting by mounting two blocks, one on each side of the companionway coaming, three bails and three single blocks on the boom and installing a cam cleat on the starboard side of the cockpit coaming. This gives me a six part line that is out of the way of the entrance to the companion way and the installation is simple.
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